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Posted

Here are the measurements for each row. I used a 20% decrease between rows, but adjusted slightly to minimize waste. You have to make two boards - one with walnut at the center and the other with maple at the center. I made each one 9" long, 1.5" thick. You cut strips off each (at a bit over the thickness you are wanting), alternating from each board, rotate end grain up, trim to width, and glue. I did the glue up in phases so I could get the alignment dialed in. If you're thoughtful you can use cut-offs for a few of the smaller pieces. I started with 1.5" wide stock, and ended up with 13.1" x 13.1" x 1.2"  board. Don't ask me how it ended up over 13" - it's a mystery.

0.43
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0.56
0.64
0.74
0.85
0.98
1.13
1.3
1.13
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0.74
0.64
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Posted

I'm trying to understand the steps here.  Your initial glue ups are just the alternating woods, cut at the widths you listed right?  Then you cut off the strips off these boards at slightly over the final thickness of your board?  Then you take these strips and rip them to those same widths, and then glue everything up? This sounds like you would end up with significant waste, corrrect?

Thanks for you help in this.

Posted
1 hour ago, Art said:

I'm trying to understand the steps here.  Your initial glue ups are just the alternating woods, cut at the widths you listed right?  Then you cut off the strips off these boards at slightly over the final thickness of your board?  Then you take these strips and rip them to those same widths, and then glue everything up? This sounds like you would end up with significant waste, corrrect?

Thanks for you help in this.

Yes that's right. There is indeed significant waste, which is why I did a little tweaking to the widths so I could use some of the off cuts for the narrower pieces. I also used a thin kerf blade. I thought about using the bandsaw, but wanted the precision and cleaner cuts from the tablesaw so that I would get all the corners to line up - and it did, mostly. If you look closely you can see minor misalignment here and there, but barely noticeable - certainly not to a bystander.

Posted
4 hours ago, Shane Jimerfield said:

Yes that's right. There is indeed significant waste, which is why I did a little tweaking to the widths so I could use some of the off cuts for the narrower pieces. I also used a thin kerf blade. I thought about using the bandsaw, but wanted the precision and cleaner cuts from the tablesaw so that I would get all the corners to line up - and it did, mostly. If you look closely you can see minor misalignment here and there, but barely noticeable - certainly not to a bystander.

Thanks.  I'll definitely be making one of these.

Posted

Title of this post is very misleading Bubble Cutting Board  it made me wonder why you would want a board to cut bubbles on when you could just pop them.:wub: Great job!

 

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, higtron said:

Title of this post is very misleading Bubble Cutting Board  it made me wonder why you would want a board to cut bubbles on when you could just pop them.:wub: Great job!

 

You don't cut bubbles? You're missing out. Give it a try.

Posted

I don't know ... "cutting bubbles" means something very different to my friends and me.

I regret not reading the title of this topic more clearly earlier.

  • Like 1
  • 6 years later...
Posted
On 5/5/2019 at 12:24 PM, Shane Jimerfield said:

Here are the measurements for each row. I used a 20% decrease between rows, but adjusted slightly to minimize waste. You have to make two boards - one with walnut at the center and the other with maple at the center. I made each one 9" long, 1.5" thick. You cut strips off each (at a bit over the thickness you are wanting), alternating from each board, rotate end grain up, trim to width, and glue. I did the glue up in phases so I could get the alignment dialed in. If you're thoughtful you can use cut-offs for a few of the smaller pieces. I started with 1.5" wide stock, and ended up with 13.1" x 13.1" x 1.2"  board. Don't ask me how it ended up over 13" - it's a mystery.

0.43
0.49
0.56
0.64
0.74
0.85
0.98
1.13
1.3
1.13
0.98
0.85
0.74
0.64
0.56
0.49
0.43

I know this was posted 7 years ago, hope you are still monitoring this.  I struggle to see how this is made.  I can understand the laminations of varying widths of wood, and the mirror image on a 2nd panel.  But in all the end grain boards I have made we follow a rough pattern similar to the following:
Normally for end grain boards we cut and crosscut and glueup laminations into a panel (one or more times) and then crosscut that panel(s) one more time to a WIDTH that will become the THICKNESS of the board once we rotate the pieces such that the end grain is vertical.  I am still struggling to visualize how that applies to this board

  • Like 2
Posted

@eckorsberg, the original poster hasn't visited in a few years. The illusion this pattern provides is just the result of carefully planning the arrangement of different thickness boards to create different widths when turned to end grain. If you zoom in to the photo, you can even see where some layers were laminated before flipping, to provide the necessary thickness.

  • Like 1
Posted

Yep, Shane hasn’t been around in a while but I’m glad this came back up. I had forgotten about it and it’s pretty cool! 

  • Like 2
Posted

That board does a bit of optical illusion, it appears to be undulating while I read thru the OP.  Glad this was bumped, I wasn't a member back then and that's a cool project!  

  • Like 2

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