Cherry Wall Cabinet - Completed

[JohnG]

2 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Man that is a beautiful wall cabinet. I love the look of that cherry.

I also think the thinner shelves would probably look better now that you say something. It might be worth the effort to think them out now. For me after it goes in service i never come back and correct anything. I just live with it.

Do you like the look of the little resin pockets? If i had a good amount of boards with it, I think it could be incorporated into a project to give a cool effect.

Thanks! That means a lot coming from the king of cherry! 

I agree, I’ll make the thinner shelves before I put it on the wall. I also need to make the drawers before I mount it or they will never get done. 

I do like the resin pockets. Like all figure, spalting, and other visual characteristics they can be used well or not well. The inside face of the left door panel with them was actually supposed to be the show face, but when I resawed the board there was a bunch on that piece and almost none on the bookmatched piece, so I had to change plans. I thought it would look off with a bunch in one panel but not the other. I think a piece of furniture with them throughout would be pretty neat. 

1 hour ago, Chet said:

Even going to 1/2 inch could make a difference.

Really looking nice though.

Thanks for the input, I may have a piece of 1/2 scrap I can compare it with, but I think I’ll go 3/8.

[Chestnut]

19 minutes ago, JohnG said:

I do like the resin pockets. Like all figure, spalting, and other visual characteristics they can be used well or not well. The inside face of the left door panel with them was actually supposed to be the show face, but when I resawed the board there was a bunch on that piece and almost none on the bookmatched piece, so I had to change plans. I thought it would look off with a bunch in one panel but not the other. I think a piece of furniture with them throughout would be pretty neat. 

If the inside of that door had match after the resaw, i think that would have made for a very interesting pair of door panels. Throughout the whole project might be a bit much but using it in a door panel or for slats or accent pieces would be really cool. A lot of times I end up having to treat it like a defect and turning it in or removing it which is unfortunate.

20 minutes ago, JohnG said:

the king of cherry! 

Until you all pointed it out i never thought about how much cherry i use. It's just so pretty though.

[JohnG]

37 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

If the inside of that door had match after the resaw, i think that would have made for a very interesting pair of door panels. Throughout the whole project might be a bit much but using it in a door panel or for slats or accent pieces would be really cool. A lot of times I end up having to treat it like a defect and turning it in or removing it which is unfortunate.

Until you all pointed it out i never thought about how much cherry i use. It's just so pretty though.

Agreed. I think if it had it sparsely spread throughout it would be cool, but that might not be the nature of it. Like other figure, I think it quickly goes from very neat to overboard.

I hope you don’t take it the wrong way, cherry is an awesome wood. I expect that most of my future projects will be cherry. It’s nice to work, looks beautiful, and ages well. 

[Chestnut]

Just now, JohnG said:

I hope you don’t take it the wrong way, cherry is an awesome wood. I expect that most of my future projects will be cherry. It’s nice to work, looks beautiful, and ages well. 

Oh no offense taken i went through probably 250 BF of cherry in the last year. I'd only object if you called me king of pallet wood or something. Though pallets do make awesome fires.

[Mark J]

I think the existing shelves look just fine and for a functional piece form follows function.  They are going to get loaded with heavy tools.  

Thanks for the feedback on the hinges.  Are you using bump stops on the doors?  I have seen those adhesive backed plastic buttons in thicker versions which could help keep the inner edges of the doors level with the hinge edges.

[JohnG]

23 minutes ago, Mark J said:

I think the existing shelves look just fine and for a functional piece form follows function.  They are going to get loaded with heavy tools.  

Thanks for the feedback on the hinges.  Are you using bump stops on the doors?  I have seen those adhesive backed plastic buttons in thicker versions which could help keep the inner edges of the doors level with the hinge edges.

Thanks for the input. This will just hold my camera and lenses. I wish I had enough glass to require 5/8” thick shelves! I’ll keep both sets and see which I like better.

I had originally planned on small magnetic catches, but will now go with those clear bumpers. I think my hinges are slightly off axis or plane because the doors have a slight bit of resistance to them, but in use I don’t mind that. 

[Chet]

On 9/7/2019 at 12:20 PM, Chestnut said:

Though pallets do make awesome fires.

Out door fires yes, I wouldn't suggest using pallet wood indoor fires.   Pallets, especially ones the come from the food industry warehouses are frequently treated with pesticides and fungicides. 

[JohnG]

I made some 3/8 shelves today.

3/8 shelves:

Top 5/8 and middle 3/8 for comparison.

 

[pkinneb]

That back looks awesome! Another great project John

[Chestnut]

Subtle but MUCH MUCH better. Beautiful work makes me want one.

[JohnG]

32 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Subtle but MUCH MUCH better. Beautiful work makes me want one.

Thanks, I really like the 3/8 shelves over the 5/8 ones. Now I’m wondering if the drawer divider and bottom shelf should have been thinner too. 

[Coop]

Nah, don’t second guess. Proportions are great, just as they are. 

[drzaius]

3/8 looks very nice.

[JohnG]

10 hours ago, K Cooper said:

Nah, don’t second guess. Proportions are great, just as they are. 

I'm not going to redo it or scrap it, and it may change once I have the drawers in place. It is more a question of general design.

[Chestnut]

1 hour ago, JohnG said:

I'm not going to redo it or scrap it, and it may change once I have the drawers in place. It is more a question of general design.

I think the center divider will look a lot better with drawers in place. The shelves are a bit different as they won't have something like a drawer front right next to them.

[JohnG]

Drawer dovetails are cut. Need to rout the groove for the drawer bottom and glue them up, then sand and finish.

I’m thinking I’ll cut out section of the front as a place to pull the drawer out, but I’m not completely set on that. 

[RichardA]

1 hour ago, JohnG said:

Drawer dovetails are cut. Need to rout the groove for the drawer bottom and glue them up, then sand and finish.

I’m thinking I’ll cut out section of the front as a place to pull the drawer out, but I’m not completely set on that. 

Drill a hole for finger pull.

[JohnG]

Almost done!

I made a couple poplar prototype pulls for the doors. I had planned on making ones that were inspired by @gee-dub’s example on page 2 of this thread. Once I moved to the cherry and added the curve to the front, I ended up with almost an exact copy, sorry and thanks gee-dub.

I thought about simply drilling a hole in the drawers as a pull, but it just didn’t seem quite right for this piece. I grabbed a piece of MDF and sketched out more of a V notch and then rounded it out. Ended up with this

And then I used blue tape and CA glue to use the MDF template and a pattern bit to cut the drawer fronts. 

One coat of finish on the pulls and drawers. 

 

[gee-dub]

 It just keeps looking sweeter and sweeter.

[Mick S]

Really nice job, John. I like the ⅜" shelf thickness and the pulls. Great build!

[pkinneb]

Very nice!

[treeslayer]

A great ride and beautiful work John, great attention to detail, I think the back is a great touch and looks great where others might have taken an easier way, proportions are spot on, very fine work all the way around, well done sir!

[Coop]

John, quiet frankly, this is looking pretty darn sweet. Both the door and drawer pulls came out nicely. I re-read your veneer process and see that you opted for the water spray on the face as opposed to the hide glue. First, I’ve never used hide glue nor have I attempted veneering. You mentioned that you sanded a small spot thru the veneer. Had you used hide glue on the front, would you have had to completely sand the glue off to keep it from affecting the finish when applied? Hope that made sense? 

[JohnG]

9 minutes ago, K Cooper said:

Had you used hide glue on the front, would you have had to completely sand the glue off to keep it from affecting the finish when applied? Hope that made sense? 

Hide glue is supposed to be transparent to finish. Normal wood glue sticks out like a sore thumb when you put finish over it but hide glue is supposed to not do that. I haven’t done enough to know for sure, but this seems to at least be reasonably true from my limited experience. Hide glue on the veneer looked just like I had finish on it, though I suppose there could possibly be some color variance depending on what finish is used. 

[Coop]

Looks like I need to look outside my box and investigate the two. Thanks bud!