Template routing

[oldman_pottering]

Greetings

I am trying to make some simple wooden toys and am having trouble routing 3/4inch pine, I am using a pattern making bit and have an MDF template attached to the stock but 3 times now the router has bit into the timber, once breaking the stock in 2 and just now has torn a chunk out of the stock making me jump and causing me to be uncomfortable and it is seemingly dangerous, having already thrown a piece of broken timber across the shed

I have used pattern making bits before without trouble like this but Im failing to see what Im doing wrong, I'm thinking perhaps its the end grain that is causing me grief but I'm not completely sure. Across the 'hood' area I can achieve a finish as would be expected.

I run the stock in the opposite direction to cutter rotation and have the speed set on 5 (6 being the highest)

I have attached photos of the job and also my setup

Appreciate any help 

Geoff

[Gary Beasley]

Perhaps you are trying to cut too much in one go. Try backing of a bit and run several passes till you get the bearing to contact the pattern. Another thing to check is if the blade has been dulled, that will do a bit of tearing instead of cutting.

[wtnhighlander]

Routing that curve is positioning the piece such that the router bit cuts into the grain. Taking very shallow cuts may alleviate the catches, but the surest way is to flip the workpiece over to approach from the opposite direction. You will need to swap the template to the opposite side, or switch to a bit with a bearing on the opposite side.

Or use a sander.

[treeslayer]

End grain is tough to pattern route, a larger diameter bit 1/2” shank with a shear angle on the cutting edge will help, slow down your feed rate and trim as much waste as you can on the bandsaw, it looks like that’s a trim router so maybe a 1/4” bit is the only option, still a bigger diameter and shear/skew angle cutter will give better results

[oldman_pottering]

31 minutes ago, Gary Beasley said:

Perhaps you are trying to cut too much in one go. Try backing of a bit and run several passes till you get the bearing to contact the pattern. Another thing to check is if the blade has been dulled, that will do a bit of tearing instead of cutting.

Thanks Gary

I just had another crack at it and it bit again but I think I fed the stock in the wrong direction, I may have been mistaken about what way I was feeding it

6 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said:

Routing that curve is positioning the piece such that the router bit cuts into the grain. Taking very shallow cuts may alleviate the catches, but the surest way is to flip the workpiece over to approach from the opposite direction. You will need to swap the template to the opposite side, or switch to a bit with a bearing on the opposite side.

Or use a sander.

Thanks wtn

I didn't think of flipping the piece over, sometimes I don't see the forest for the trees

The sander option would definitely be a good idea though ! ( those bloody trees again)

4 minutes ago, treeslayer said:

End grain is tough to pattern route, a larger diameter bit 1/2” shank with a shear angle on the cutting edge will help, slow down your feed rate and trim as much waste as you can on the bandsaw, it looks like that’s a trim router so maybe a 1/4” bit is the only option, still a bigger diameter and shear/skew angle cutter will give better results

Thanks ts

Yes, it is a trim router, I think I will stay away from routing end grain all together, as wtn pointed out that curve would be easily done on the sander.

I appreciate everyones help 

[drzaius]

Using a spiral cut pattern bit will make a tremendous difference. Since using them I've become a believer. You still need to use proper technique of course. For that rounded end grain section, you still want to use a climb cut (very carefully) and don't try to take too deep a pass.

[gee-dub]

I do enough template routing that a top/bottom bearing bit makes sense for me. 

 

This allows you to always route downhill.

[oldman_pottering]

7 hours ago, drzaius said:

Using a spiral cut pattern bit will make a tremendous difference. Since using them I've become a believer. You still need to use proper technique of course. For that rounded end grain section, you still want to use a climb cut (very carefully) and don't try to take too deep a pass.

Thanks drz

I will look up climb cut, I believe my main problem is technique / inexperience

4 hours ago, gee-dub said:

I do enough template routing that a top/bottom bearing bit makes sense for me. 

 

This allows you to always route downhill.

Gee-Dub thank you

I didn't even know there was bits like this, I don't understand 'routing downhill'

 

 

[oldman_pottering]

OK, after a quick search I have checked downhill routing and climb cutting, I have quite a bit of learning to do.

I will be away for a couple of days so I will read and ask some more when I return.

Thanks again to all that help

[gee-dub]

Sorry for the late replay oldman, busy days lately.  You've already found some info on routing "downhill" which essentially means "with the grain" as opposed to against it as spectacularly demonstrated in your first picture; been there, done that ;-)  Climb cutting can serve a few purposes but, routing with the grain is a near guarantee of success.  It takes a bit of time to raise and lower the bit to allow a persistent 'downhill' approach.  Even with a lift I tend to do all the cuts with the grain I can using one bearing and then finish up using the other.  

[curlyoak]

Wrong router. Needs a lot more power and 1/2" shank bits. Also a pin in the table top is helpful when routing curves. This type of work has  a higher level of danger. Watch some videos on the subject. Add extra caution until you find your way.