IthacaDoc

Looking for input for new table saw blade

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Hi everyone..  New to this forum!

I'm a semi-experienced amateur woodworker, mostly limited by time and workspace.  I built a nice desk for my daughter a few years ago, forcing myself to learn some new joinery techniques.  Now it's time to finally build a couple built-in bookshelves that will flank our fireplace.  I've spent a long time getting the design drawn up.

I have a lovely Grizzly 0715P that has been serving me well.  I replaced the stock blade with a Freud Premier Fusion after I purchased the saw.  Rip and crosscuts are beautiful, but I did find that the 2 1/4 HP is a bit light for the full-kerf blade.  The new bookshelves will be made from sapele since the old fireplace mantel was mahogany.  This will be my first experience with gluing up boards from lumber.  Since I don't have the space for a jointer, I'm hoping my table saw (with a jig) will suffice.  So here's my question:

Should I purchase a new Thin Kerf Premier Fusion or try the Freud Thin Kerf Glue Line blade?  The Fusion is a bit more expensive, but that's not a big concern.  Based on my full kerf blade, I can't imagine a better glue line, but I was hoping to get your input.   Obviously changing out blades is annoying, so if I the combo Fusion will be just as good, I'll go with that.

Thanks very much!

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I have the full kerf Glue Line Rip blade and it is great (just remember that it doesn't leave a flat cut, so it isn't good for box joints or splines). 

I just have a little jobsite saw and the full kerf GLR blade cuts easier than the Freud Diablo 40t thin kerf combo blade I have. Changing blades on my saw is a pain, but I still prefer to do that over using my combo blade on everything.

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Welcome the the forums Doc.

I use Feud Rip and Cross Cut full kerf blades and I have less hp then you do and the only thing that slows me down some is something like 8/4 maple.  I think some thing that really helps is cleaning the blades regularly.

I am a little hesitant about thin kerf because of the potential for deflection.

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JohnG and Chet, thanks for the comments!  The sapele is harder than any other wood I've cut, although most of my projects have involved 3/4" plywood.  I think I'll give the Fusion a try and see how it goes.  If I have to switch to a thin kerf, I'll also need a new riving knife which adds another $50.

I was already thinking about cleaning that blade, so thanks for the reminder!

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Thanks, wtn

Definitely need to learn about using a hand plane.  Zero experience with them and I have a hard time even fathoming how to make a long flat surface with a hand tool!  (But I realize that's just my inexperience)

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3 minutes ago, IthacaDoc said:

Thanks, wtn

Definitely need to learn about using a hand plane.  Zero experience with them and I have a hard time even fathoming how to make a long flat surface with a hand tool!  (But I realize that's just my inexperience)

Trust MY experience - it is much easier to make a long, flat surface with a hand plane, than with an under-sized jointer...

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(That picture I will never forget)

To learn about handplanes check out the book by Chris Schwarz (but first check my spelling).

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I used to run thin kerf blades in my PM66 but SS recommends they be a certain thickness and the Freud blades are to thin so I sold them and bought full kerf versions. I use Freud blades almost exclusively (I have a few Forrest and a Forrest dado stack) and the glue line rip is a great blade.

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