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Mark J

Reversing CA glue

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HopefullyI can get some quick help with this one.

I had a small piece chip out on a projeect I'm turning.  I was able to find the fragment in the chips, but in re-attaching it with CA I muffed the alignment.  I'd like to make it better, but I can live with it (a lot will be sanded off).  So I don't want to make it worse.

So questions:

Can I reverse fully cured CA with acetone?

Can I then use CA to re-attach?

Will actone have negative effects on the wood or subsequent finishes?

How would it be best to apply the acetone?  Brush?  Immerse?

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I can only answer one part. Acetone will flash off so quickly, I have never seen it interfere with following finishes. 

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I don't know the answer for sure. However, I would experiment on another piece of similar wood and see what happens. I know that doesn't help much if you are in a hurry to know.

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The answer is ...  it doesn't work.  

The acetone didn't discolor the maple, but the little piece won't budge.  I tried generous surface application with an artist's paintbrush and imersing the tip in a shallow pool of acetone for 5 minutes.  The wood soaked it up generously, but the glue would not give up.  

I'll just have to live with it.

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CA will release with heat but it will likely discolor the wood getting it hot enough to melt it. I have used heat to unstick the brass tubes in a pen blank when it sticks in the wrong place. 

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Heat...?  I know it’s reversible. That’s what makes it my go to repairing musical instruments. The repair shop can easily take my work apart. 

EDIT: Through some evil forum magic, this comment posted someplace wildly different yesterday afternoon. Keep digging, I know reversal is possible. 

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It's a very tiny fragment off a thin protrusion.

20190615_123914_HDR.thumb.jpg.af5ec4476923bbecbfde60f528470fa2.jpg

I have a heat gun, but given the small size of the wood at the tip I think Gary has a point about burning.  Most of the repair will be lost in final sanding and shaping.  My gut is telling me to let it go.  

 

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