Chip Sawdust Posted June 30, 2019 Report Share Posted June 30, 2019 Saw this on a website but no hints on how to make it. It’s one piece of wood for an apron with a drawer in the middle all from one piece of wood. Typically one would rip the apron wood above and below the drawer then glue them carefully back together after cutting the drawer face out of the middle. There was no indication of a “seam” in this picture, and the gap was tiny! Anyone have hints for me? I’m ever so curious. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted June 30, 2019 Report Share Posted June 30, 2019 Is there a picture or link to go with this? I’ve seen it done the way you describe. With good grain selection and a thin kerf blade there won’t be any visible seam. I suppose if you have a tiny bit you could also do this on a CNC without ripping, though I’m not sure how feasible that would be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 30, 2019 Report Share Posted June 30, 2019 That’s the correct way to do it. If the height of the front needs to match side and back aprons, allow for the two horizontal kerfs you are making or just start with a taller piece and make the final cut after the glue up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted July 1, 2019 Report Share Posted July 1, 2019 I'd use a bandsaw with as thin of blade as you can get. I'd make the cut with a resaw king blade not clean up either side and glue it back together and i'd bet you'd have a hard time finding the sea. Board selection is critical as well. Some grain patterns no matter the thickness the material removed will look disrupted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted July 1, 2019 Report Share Posted July 1, 2019 With careful technique and a sharp handsaw, a 'plunge cut' can be used, at least for the rips. The crosscuts would be tough, because they are short. But not impossible. I'm betting on the rip and glue method, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted July 1, 2019 Report Share Posted July 1, 2019 Another possibility is instead of one piece, make style and rail face frame. And possibly more than one drawer depending on the measurements. A possible choice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barron Posted July 1, 2019 Report Share Posted July 1, 2019 Chestnut has the right idea. Use a straight grained board, for a really tight fit for the drawer, start with a board a little longer as well as taller. Oh, and make sure you mark the board before you cut so you can put it back together again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chip Sawdust Posted July 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2019 On 6/30/2019 at 2:56 PM, JohnG said: Is there a picture or link to go with this? I’ve seen it done the way you describe. With good grain selection and a thin kerf blade there won’t be any visible seam. I suppose if you have a tiny bit you could also do this on a CNC without ripping, though I’m not sure how feasible that would be. @JohnG I saw it on Paul Sellers’ website, in one of his blogs but for the life of me I can’t find it today... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chip Sawdust Posted July 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2019 On 7/1/2019 at 3:05 PM, Barron said: Chestnut has the right idea. Use a straight grained board, for a really tight fit for the drawer, start with a board a little longer as well as taller. Oh, and make sure you mark the board before you cut so you can put it back together again. I think this is the answer as well. As for marking, when I make dovetailed drawers I use colored chalk and just scribble the color on the ends that mate up. That’s what I’d probably do to mark this kind of board. Thanks for all the suggestion gang! This is an awesome forum *thumbs up* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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