Seeking guidance on new woodworking projects. Please.


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Hello,

I'm glad I found this site, because it looks active and up-to-date.  I do love the smell of fresh wood.

I didn't see a special section in your forum for novices to ask questions, so I hope this is fine here.  If not, please just tell me and I'll move it elsewhere.  

About Me (the short-ish, relevant story):  I'm a 66-year-old legal secretary at a huge corporate law firm in Downtown Dallas. Argh!  In February, i am always sad to say, my most wonderful husband of four-and-a-half magical years, became very ill and, after three weeks in the hospital, they still couldn't rid of what had been aspirated into his lungs and I had to let him go.  I promised him he wouldn't have to suffer.  :(  However, my David was a 30-year recipient of a transplanted kidney.  They typically only last 12-15 years, so he was a miracle man.  His transplanted kidney came from a two-year old baby and it kept him alive for a very long time, but eventually, his immune system was just too weak from the very strong anti-rejections drugs he'd taken for 30 years and he's gone to The Other Side to wait for me  He had an interesting life.  I miss him every day.  So, to the point, we had the house renovated a few years ago, but David wanted to hang all the doors and put up the trim and put down new baseboards.  He was retired and got quite a bit done, but there's still a lot left to do.  All the doors are hung and most of the doors are trimmed.  I have some woodworking chores and then I'm going to paint all the doors and trim, and put one more good coat of paint on all walls and ceilings.  I have planned this project with my contractor friend, and was fretting about how anyone could possibly paint a door and the trim better than I could. And I can't imagine a regular worker - not the expensive artist types - really caring as much about how beautiful those window sills need to look more than I do.  So, rather than endure the stress of having to teach workers how to do a good job, I've decided to do it myself. I'll save a ton of money and get the personal satisfaction of having done it myself.  My hands will suffer a bit, but I only have to do all this one time and then I'm done!

(1) how to smooth mitered edges on unpainted (but I think the trim was primed.) door trim that has - I don't know the term for door or baseboard trim that has different levels, not just flat - like three wavy edges.  I've read and watched some great tips about filling the gaps, but I don't think I can use the rolling the screwdriver barrel on the wood to squish it together will work with this fancy trim.  I'm a perfectionist and I want them to look gorgeous.  So, if I make a paste, or buy a paste (and maybe some glue), and get it down in the gap, will I just have to sand each detailed part of the trim to try to make it look seamless?  Now I'm wishing I hadn't chose such fancy trim, but I'll only have to do these tasks once.

(2) how to refinish windowsills -- I haven't researched this yet, but have pretty good knowledge of sanding and filling gaps, but only with the old wood filler you buy in a little can.  I'm glad there are better products and you can make it yourself.  I'd like not to have to strip the very old paint (but only one coat).  I'll need to buy a new sander that has a bag to minimize the mess (and save the sawdust to make paste).  I'd rather sand them smooth than use stripping chemicals.  The worst part on the window sills will have to be reconstructing a small corner.  Other than that, mostly paint drops, gouges, peeling paint.  These baseboards are very plain and about 50 years old.  I aim to get them smooth and looking fresh. I'm a very good painter with lots of experience in getting an extra-smooth finish on wood trim. 

(3) how to finish the trim around blinds-inside french doors.  There are lots of holes where screws went and I have the bags of plastic plugs.  I haven't researched this either, but I'm guessing it's going to involve some glue (what's the best - white or yellow?) and will I have to carve the uneven tops of the plugs?  I'd be so happy if I could get my French doors to look nice, without holes.

So, I think that's about it.  I'm off work next week to get started and to have workers here doing the things that I won't do, like drywall, electrical, trimming doorways and hanging closet doors.  It's very late now and I'm off to bed, but look forward to waking up and being excited (really?) about a new project! Rah-rah-rah!  I will great appreciate any suggestions, tips, links, product recommendations, just nice words, or anything y'all are willing to share with me.  

Grazie e buonanotte,

Susie

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Welcome to the forum , Susie!  I am sorry to hear about David, but it looks like your project and enthusiasm will be a great epilogue to your magic man.

I won't be the one answering most of your questions as your project is above my pay grade, but I will tell you that photographs detailing the issues you are facing would be a big help to those that do have experience to offer.

It would also be useful to have a better sense of your woodworking skills and available tools.  

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Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear of your loss. I'm sure it must have been a trying time for you. Been through the same thing with my parents.

The forum is a great place! Don't be afraid to ask questions as you have already done. My father always said the only dumb question is the one not asked. The members represent thousands of hours in the shop and a constant learning experience along the way for all of us. BTW, been to Arlington many times. Used to live in Shreveport and went to the D-FW area for weekends with the kids.

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Welcome, Susie!

You mentioned that you need to refinish some areas with 'very old' paint on them. Before you start sanding, please go to the paint store and ask for a lead testing kit. I believe they are available at most paint stores and home centers now. You do NOT want to be sanding any lead-based paint and releasing that dust into the air. I would also encourage you to obtain a shop vacuum to attach to your sander. The bag alone is not very effective at collecting all the dust.

And as mentioned above, a few photos will really help us better understand the problems you are trying to solve.

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Thank you all so much for your replies, condolences and well wishes!  I'm attaching photos of what I'm talking about.  The photos represent the worst cases in this project.  I think the inner frame around the French door windows will be the hardest for me. 

I'm comfortable and experienced with electric tools.  I once owned a concrete grinder to level my floor before tiling.  It was a monster, so i think anything else will be a piece of cake.

I've ordered a lead testing kit - thank you. 

I'd like to get this sander:  Bosch ROS20VSC Palm Sander - 2.5 Amp 5 in. Corded Variable Speed Random Orbital Sander.  I can use it with its own collector or attach it to my ShopVac. It looks like the perfect size for me and for the window sills.  

Please let me know if you have any comments or suggestions.

Susie

Woodworking BEFORE_dark window sills.jpg

Woodworking BEFORE_door frame 1.jpg

Woodworking BEFORE_french door frame.jpg

Woodworking BEFORE_window sill corner.jpg

Woodworking BEFORE_window sill.jpg

Woodworking BEFORE_worst gap doorframe.jpg

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Latex caulk is your friend on painted trim. It will hide all kinds of cracks, even the miter in the last photo. You'll need to do a couple of applications with one that deep and wide. Fill it up, wipe away the excess, & then let it dry for a few days. It will shrink back a bit so fill it back up again & carefully remove the excess. On a big crack, it helps to wrap a rag around a putty knife & use that to tool the joint. On smaller cracks & gaps a moistened finger or rag works well to smooth & clean. Have a scrap of cardboard near by to wipe excess caulk on.

The nail holes can be filled with pretty much any drywall filler or wood filler & then sanded flush after drying.

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Welcome to the forums! There should be no lead concern in the clear finishes. You are good there. Just know that sandpaper will load up very quickly with those finishes, you will need a lot. Many strip first to lessen that need.

Those screw holes in the vinyl door trim should have come with custom plugs. 

Your door casing is not in the same plane and/or has been cut at 45° for a corner that is not 90°. If it is not in the same plane as I suspect, I would shim underneath the piece pictured on the right. The joint between the casing and the jamb will hide with some painters caulk so very much more easily than the counter of the face of that casing. A91FBFEB-A8F5-4CF3-8575-E5BD7A357A5B.jpeg.1c99462ce30de80327a5ee2e841e15f1.jpeg

The casing that is gapped in that last photo...should be replaced in my opinion. Caulk has a way of bulging or dipping in miter gaps that large on the exterior. 

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5 minutes ago, Tpt life said:

I would shim underneath the piece pictured on the right.

Hello, thanks for this reply.  The photo is from my French doors, which my hubby and a friend installed.  I can't even come close to being able to correct this problem.  I don't know enough about shimming and door frames and don't know what a counter is.  If I leave it as is, will it still be okay, or should I hire a carpenter to get these French doors how they should be?  I want these doors to be as perfect as possible.  They're highly visible and used a lot.  Also, they stick a bit sometimes, so I know they're not as level as they should be. I'll add this task to the list of things I need to pay someone else to do. :)  Thanks.

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32 minutes ago, SusieOpperia said:

  I don't know enough about shimming and door frames and don't know what a counter is. 

Ha! “Counter” is what my device puts when it does not trust that I meant “contour.” Straight line gaps hide more easily than the curvy contoured ones. 

With regard to hiring in...

You have little to lose but time. Give it a go first then hire in only if overwhelmed. My two cents. 

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Regarding the window sill with the chipped corner, there are a couple of options. You could saw away the damaged area, glue in a piece of wood to replace it, and shape it in place before repainting.

An alternative is to scrape away as much paint as possible, exposing bare wood, then apply a coat of filler. Bondo brand auto body filler will work, or they offer a version specifically for wood. In either case, it is a 2 part epoxy-like paste that can fill pretty substantial gaps or cracks, and is reasonably strong. You could use it for nail holes a joint gaps too, but it hardens enough to require a good bit of sanding.

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