Popular Post Coyote Jim Posted July 28, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 28, 2019 I'm in the middle of making a small dovetail box. Due to a slight miscalculation I have 1/16" proud dovetails. I WAS going to plane them flush but I absolutely love the way they look. Kind of a happy accident. Here is a pic: I was thinking about the glue up. Won't the pins get covered in glue as they push through? Anyone have any tips to keep this glue up from being a messy disaster? Second question, chamfer the proud tails and pins before or after the glue up? I'm thinking before. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ronn W Posted July 28, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 28, 2019 I have been working on a similar project except that I did it intentionally, and, yes, I like the look. Definitely chamfer before assembly. I use a block plane, but a chisel works, too. Gotta be realy sharp. Be careful not to chamfer off more than the 1/16" that the pins and tails are proud of the surface. Too large of a chamfer will make it look like the fit is sloppy. Start with the edges that are the surface of the boards, not the edges created by cutting the tails and pins. Its done by eye although you can draw a pencil line around the tail or the pin so you don't take too much off. After doin a copule you will find that you don't need the guide lines. It is important to make the chamfers create nice crisp points at the corners where they meet. Crisp corners means that you have the same amount of chanfer all the way around. Re glue-up. Good fitting dovetails really don't need much glue. I put a thin coat of glue on the faces of the pins only but not the part that will be proud of the surface. When the tails are inserted over the pins the glue will be spread towards the base of the tails and you will have very little squeeze out. Have fun and good luck. Nice looking cabinet. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted July 29, 2019 Report Share Posted July 29, 2019 I think Ronn has this perfectly explained. Hope you share a finished picture with us! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted July 29, 2019 Report Share Posted July 29, 2019 If you think that more glue coverage will be needed inside the joint, then how about pre-finishing just he tips of the pins so you can load the joint with glue & then easily clean off the exposed parts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmize Posted July 29, 2019 Report Share Posted July 29, 2019 Rob Cosman just did a free video workshop on you tube and covered the whole process. But almost exactly as Ronn W explained it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted July 29, 2019 Report Share Posted July 29, 2019 I glue up proud box joints the very way Ronn explained. Works every time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coyote Jim Posted July 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2019 Thanks @Ronn W! This is all great info! Quick clarification though. When you say "coat of glue on the faces of the pins only" you mean glue on every face of the pin that will be touching the tails, including the face that will touch the baseline of the tail board right? 3 hours ago, Chestnut said: I think Ronn has this perfectly explained. Hope you share a finished picture with us! I sure will but, I work at a snails pace and I have very limited shop time. So keep an eye on these forums sometime in the fall. That's a joke...mostly. 3 hours ago, drzaius said: pre-finishing just he tips of the pins so you can load the joint with glue & then easily clean off the exposed parts. This is a great idea. Thanks. @Tmize I'll have a look for Cosman's video. It's my understanding that guy knows a thing or two about joinery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ronn W Posted July 29, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 29, 2019 3 hours ago, Coyote Jim said: Thanks @Ronn W! This is all great info! Quick clarification though. When you say "coat of glue on the faces of the pins only" you mean glue on every face of the pin that will be touching the tails, including the face that will touch the baseline of the tail board right? Only need to glue the 2 sides of the pins. The base line is end grain which would be a very weak glue joint. Most woodworkers under cut the base line a little so ehich means that you won't have much contact area for glue there anyway. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Coyote Jim Posted August 4, 2019 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted August 4, 2019 On 7/28/2019 at 9:13 AM, Ronn W said: I have been working on a similar project except that I did it intentionally, and, yes, I like the look. Definitely chamfer before assembly. I use a block plane, but a chisel works, too. Gotta be realy sharp. Be careful not to chamfer off more than the 1/16" that the pins and tails are proud of the surface. Too large of a chamfer will make it look like the fit is sloppy. Start with the edges that are the surface of the boards, not the edges created by cutting the tails and pins. Its done by eye although you can draw a pencil line around the tail or the pin so you don't take too much off. After doin a copule you will find that you don't need the guide lines. It is important to make the chamfers create nice crisp points at the corners where they meet. Crisp corners means that you have the same amount of chanfer all the way around. Re glue-up. Good fitting dovetails really don't need much glue. I put a thin coat of glue on the faces of the pins only but not the part that will be proud of the surface. When the tails are inserted over the pins the glue will be spread towards the base of the tails and you will have very little squeeze out. Have fun and good luck. Nice looking cabinet. Everything above worked great! Thank you very much. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted August 5, 2019 Report Share Posted August 5, 2019 Glad it worked. LOoks great. I like it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 5, 2019 Report Share Posted August 5, 2019 Not to hj this but a prime time to ask, assuming Jim didn’t want these proud, how would others bring them to flush? BTY, great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chestnut Posted August 5, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted August 5, 2019 (edited) Coop, I'd use a hand plane making sure to work in a manner that minimizes blowout. Usually that means from the sides toward the center. I usually work from all sorts of angles until i find the one that reduces the tear out and blowout. For drawers i clamp 2 boards across my bench and hang the drawer off the side. Edit: To add this is one of the reasons why having your legs flush with the side of your bench is quite helpful. It gave the box 3 points of contact and made everything quite sturdy. Edited August 5, 2019 by Chestnut 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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