Chestnut

Living Room Tables

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4 minutes ago, Chet said:

I use this stuff from Epoch Wood. Two Sided Sandpaper

It works out to about .40 a sheet for a 4.5 X 2.75 inch piece.  But it's pretty durable and works well for getting in to tight spots and corners.  I use the 400 for all my between coat sanding.  

That's where i got the idea from honestly. Marc posting something about that stuff and i looked into it.Later i was playing around with the 3M paper and realized that because the adhesive was heat activated it made it really easy to fold precicsly and make 2 sided.

1 hour ago, treeslayer said:

I always keep a couple of rolls of PSA paper around for just such a task. 

I can't remember if PSA is always sticky or takes activation with pressure or heat. The nice thing about needing to heat activate the adhesive is it allows for easier folding. Super minor and isn't worth it to carry extra stock. I use what i have because I have it and if i don't fold it in half like this i don't use it.

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The last table is real unique looking.  Great job on all of them.  I know that my usual stopping point is three coats with water borne finishes.  That fourth coat is the one that can push it over the edge and make the finish plastic looking.

Looks like its getting close to leaf racking season for you too.;)

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1 hour ago, Chet said:

Looks like its getting close to leaf racking season for you too.

I try to mulch them up as much as possible but i still end up loading my 4x8 trailer 2 feet deep with mulched leaves every year during peak drop.

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Drew, I just realized that the angled thin strips will be shorter than the center and two outside ones by a smidge. Did you cut the center and two outside shorter or just didn’t worry about the difference? 

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42 minutes ago, K Cooper said:

Drew, I just realized that the angled thin strips will be shorter than the center and two outside ones by a smidge. Did you cut the center and two outside shorter or just didn’t worry about the difference? 

You are quite right the thin strips that bend are shorter than the thicker pieces. The difference in length wasn't really noticeable so I just didn't bother with it. The groove is 3/16" deep which would be more than enough to cover up a slight difference if it was noticeable.

Coop you'd better be careful or we might start accusing you of knowing what you are doing :P.

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10 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Coop you'd better be careful or we might start accusing you of knowing what you are doing :P.

That would have been a rare moment and if ever, would have happened years ago! ;)

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Well done Drew and excellent work as usual, the proportions are spot on and I really enjoyed the ride and learned lots of new stuff and you really need to do something about those chairs in your spare time:o

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I do like the thin strips on the end, looks like they are cut from a single board and the connecting parts left uncut. There is a table in the library area at Peachtree Woodworking that a Gwinnett Woodworking member had made for the annual two by four contest that uses a cut style like that for the entire base. Had to be nerve wracking making the cuts on that.

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31 minutes ago, Gary Beasley said:

I do like the thin strips on the end, looks like they are cut from a single board and the connecting parts left uncut. There is a table in the library area at Peachtree Woodworking that a Gwinnett Woodworking member had made for the annual two by four contest that uses a cut style like that for the entire base. Had to be nerve wracking making the cuts on that.

It's not as bad as you may think. I did a few experiments documented earlier in this thread and learned a few ticks that made it go much more smoothly. It's really surprising how little wood it takes to make a nice effect. The sides started out 1 3/8" to fill a space that is 5".

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I have enjoyed returning to this thread several times.  Thanks for taking the time to demonstrate your methods and techniques.  The whole grouping works very well together.  The room has a feel of solid comfort and looks very inviting.

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