minwax oil based stains on pine


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I am having a farmhouse/rustic tv stand made for me but having trouble finding the right stain color.  He is going to be using yellow pine, but the wood pieces that are more white.  The stain will be minwax.  I have a few colors/pictures that I like, but not sure what they are.  Some are a mix of colors I'm sure.  Here are some colors I like but am open to other ideas.  I don't like the real dark stains.  My coffee table is a mix of special walnut, early american and dark walnut, but I can't remember the exact amounts and the wood was spruce, so I know it will take the color differently.  The last picture is my coffee table.    I tried the weathered oak on a test piece but it came up very light.  I wonder how it would look mixed with another stain to darken it up.  I am overwhelmed with all of the mixing and trying out of colors so any pics or suggestions would be great!  Thanks.

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If you are trying to match from a picture from the internet you have no idea how much photo editing they did that will modify the colors beyond what is possible to recreate.

Provincial from minwax is similar to the first picture. I'd stick with a single color so in the future correcting any issues will be easy. If you desire a darker color sand to a rougher grit like 100 or 80 even. Sanding to a higher grit will block absorption.

2nd picture almost looks like a watered down white pain that was applied similar to how a wood stain would be applied. After it dries sand lightly with 320 grit to even things out a bit. See below for results.

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The trouble with putting dark stain on Pine is that the soft grain absorbs much more than the hard grain, and it reverses the natural look (just like that Spruce).   I don't know of anything that will darken up the hard grain enough to keep it looking natural, but age.

I used a lot of YP in the houses I built, and also Minwax stain, but I used one part Puritan Pine, to two parts Natural, just to give it a little color, without reversing the natural look.  It still darkens over time.  I think I may have a picture of some cabinets I built in 1991 here.  The picture is also with 28 years of age on the wood.  Those top rails aren't really that much darker than the rest of it-just something odd about the reflected light in that particular picture.

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What do you think was used to get this look?  I have seem some pics of tables done in early american or special walnut and they look good, but when I test out the stain they looks so dull to me.  I love the wood in the last picture but it's a walnut wood but if I could get a stain to look like that on pine it would be beautiful!

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2 hours ago, peace2u said:

Thanks, your picture looks very orange to me.  I prefer more of the brown or golden brown shades.  Do you think the third picture was burned wood?  I really like it but not sure how to get this look.

The point i was trying to higlight was the white in the closet on the walls and shelves not the door. The door is no stain just poly. Over many many years poly will darken as will the wood underneath to a much more amber color.

The first picture could be anything. They have a display at most stores of what the stains look like on various woods i suggest going there and viewing the samples. Pictures online are not accurate as they tend to get manipulated as well as our monitors are NOT color accurate. So what you see on your screen is different than what i see on mine. It's also not what we'd both see in reality.

If you want to split hairs over exact colors the ONLY way to get it accurate is test on scraps from the actual project.

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Is there a reason you are set on using Minwax stain? There are better options out there.

It’s not cheap to buy small cans of many different color stains, but it’s the only way you can know what it will look like on your boards. 

this video has good info on types of stain and how sanding affects the stain. His other videos show good practices of layering stains and dyes to match specific colors. Just remember that the more complicated your stain formula ends up being, the harder it will be to repair or make future pieces match. 

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46 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

The point i was trying to higlight was the white in the closet on the walls and shelves not the door. The door is no stain just poly. Over many many years poly will darken as will the wood underneath to a much more amber color.

The first picture could be anything. They have a display at most stores of what the stains look like on various woods i suggest going there and viewing the samples. Pictures online are not accurate as they tend to get manipulated as well as our monitors are NOT color accurate. So what you see on your screen is different than what i see on mine. It's also not what we'd both see in reality.

If you want to split hairs over exact colors the ONLY way to get it accurate is test on scraps from the actual project.

Sorry I had no idea what you were trying to highlight in your picture.  I am not trying to split hairs over colors either.  I was trying to get an idea of how different stains would look on pine.  I am very familiar with the displays at stores and they are not very helpful when you are using actual wood at home.  I realize screens can alter the look somewhat, but it is more helpful than a display at a store.  I am not trying to get into an argument over wood stain colors.  LOL.  Life is too  short.  I appreciate anyone in the  group that can share their knowledge in a helpful and supportive way so that I can learn.

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21 minutes ago, JohnG said:

Is there a reason you are set on using Minwax stain? There are better options out there.

It’s not cheap to buy small cans of many different color stains, but it’s the only way you can know what it will look like on your boards. 

this video has good info on types of stain and how sanding affects the stain. His other videos show good practices of layering stains and dyes to match specific colors. Just remember that the more complicated your stain formula ends up being, the harder it will be to repair or make future pieces match. 

I don't have a particular reason to use minwax other than thats what the guy who is making my table uses.  I am sure if I asked for a different brand he would use it.  What would you recommend?  Oh...and thanks so much for sharing the videos.  I will check them out!

 

 

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5 minutes ago, peace2u said:

Sorry I had no idea what you were trying to highlight in your picture.  I am not trying to split hairs over colors either.  I was trying to get an idea of how different stains would look on pine.  I am very familiar with the displays at stores and they are not very helpful when you are using actual wood at home.  I realize screens can alter the look somewhat, but it is more helpful than a display at a store.  I am not trying to get into an argument over wood stain colors.  LOL.  Life is too  short.  I appreciate anyone in the  group that can share their knowledge in a helpful and supportive way so that I can learn.

I"m trying to be helpful and supportive i feel you may have misread the comments they were intended to get information accross. My help and support is to try the stuff at home on the wood you'd like to use or have your person that is doing the work create a sample board. Different species absorb stains in different ways and amounts. Room temperature, the grit you sand to, how much you saturate the wood all has an effect. The store displays will get you in the ballpark as to over all color tone, either red, brown, golden ,ect. After that you have to do tests. To get darker colors stop sanding at lower grits like 80 or 100. To get lighter colors sand to a higher grit like 150 or 220, if that's not enough a sanding sealer, or wood conditioner will help the wood absorb less stain.

This applies across the board for all stains, dyes, or wood tinting processes. If minwax doesn't have the color you like Varathane makes stains, General Finishes makes stains, as well as many others. There are also tinted products like Danish oil. Danish oil applies a bit differently than a stain but the end result is generally the same.

I've stained a lot of pine and the best way to get an exact color you are looking for is trial and error.

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Some home centers still offer small sample packs of Minwax stains, like a fast-food ketchup packet. That allows small tests to be made inexpensively. As @Chestnut said, that's the only way to see what the color really looks like.

I agree with @Tom King as well, blending color with natural stain allows better control over the result.

And yes, the last photo you referenced does appear to be scorched. This is done with a gas torch, and frankly is difficult to get "lightly toasted" yet still evenly covered. Some like to fully char the surface, then remove most of the burned material, leaving a more even tone, but accentuating the grain texture of the pine.

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I appreciate your explanation.  I always learn 

34 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

I"m trying to be helpful and supportive i feel you may have misread the comments they were intended to get information accross. My help and support is to try the stuff at home on the wood you'd like to use or have your person that is doing the work create a sample board. Different species absorb stains in different ways and amounts. Room temperature, the grit you sand to, how much you saturate the wood all has an effect. The store displays will get you in the ballpark as to over all color tone, either red, brown, golden ,ect. After that you have to do tests. To get darker colors stop sanding at lower grits like 80 or 100. To get lighter colors sand to a higher grit like 150 or 220, if that's not enough a sanding sealer, or wood conditioner will help the wood absorb less stain.

This applies across the board for all stains, dyes, or wood tinting processes. If minwax doesn't have the color you like Varathane makes stains, General Finishes makes stains, as well as many others. There are also tinted products like Danish oil. Danish oil applies a bit differently than a stain but the end result is generally the same.

I've stained a lot of pine and the best way to get an exact color you are looking for is trial and error.

I appreciate your explanation and maybe I misinterpreted your remarks.  I do you have several pieces of wood at home and just started experimenting today but started to get overwhelmed and frustrated so I decided to take a step back and see if I could learn more and get some other ideas and suggestions.  I didn't realize that the grit size made a difference in color.  That is very useful info!    I have heard about danish oil but haven't seen to many pics of it on furniture.  I don't see a lot of the other brands used as much or at least where people making/selling farmhouse/rustic style furniture.  They usually used minwax and they let you choose from the stain colors they offer.

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13 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said:

Some home centers still offer small sample packs of Minwax stains, like a fast-food ketchup packet. That allows small tests to be made inexpensively. As @Chestnut said, that's the only way to see what the color really looks like.

I agree with @Tom King as well, blending color with natural stain allows better control over the result.

And yes, the last photo you referenced does appear to be scorched. This is done with a gas torch, and frankly is difficult to get "lightly toasted" yet still evenly covered. Some like to fully char the surface, then remove most of the burned material, leaving a more even tone, but accentuating the grain texture of the pine.

That would be great to try out a bunch of them.  I never heard of this but I could always ask.  I had a feeling the torched looked would be unpredictable...especially if someone is making my piece and would be the one doing it.  I don't think he'd want to take a chance with it coming out differently than was planned!

 

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I can't add much to the excellent advice you have gotten above. I would just add a reminder to be sure you have a coat or two of a clear finish over any sample stain color in order to see it the same way as it will be on the finished piece. A spray can of clear lacquer, poly, or even shellac is useful for this. Of course, it is best to use the same as what will be used on the final.

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I am an experienced woodworker. I finish what I build. There are people the just do finishing and re-finishing. That is all they do. I would offer my customer unfinished and recommend a finisher if they wanted a match. Or I would stain it and promise it would be different. To me matching is not necessary. That is my eye. Many do like it all to match. I remember building an oak dresser. They wanted a match. The very experienced finisher had a thick spiral notebook. In there was all of his history along with recipes. He could match anything. Usually on his first try. If you can make a match some luck has to be on your side.

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3 hours ago, Wimayo said:

I can't add much to the excellent advice you have gotten above. I would just add a reminder to be sure you have a coat or two of a clear finish over any sample stain color in order to see it the same way as it will be on the finished piece. A spray can of clear lacquer, poly, or even shellac is useful for this. Of course, it is best to use the same as what will be used on the final.

I didn't think about that.  Good suggestion.  I actually found a pic of what I'd really like.  The guy that used it said he did a custom blend and called it "weathered walnut".  I know I can't get exactly this color,  but something close to it would be great. I know he uses minwax but haven't heard back yet about what was used to get this color.  He was actually going to make me a tv stand but then moved away.  He is so talented.  I admire anyone that can create such beautiful furniture!

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  • 1 year later...

Hi! Did you ever find something close to the last photo you shared here (of the "weathered walnut")? We are trying to pick a Minwax stain for a wood post on our front porch made of pine and I like this colour too, so if you found something similar, I'd love to hear! It's so hard to choose based on little samples at the store. Thanks in advance! 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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