Jim Stoppleworth Posted October 1, 2019 Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 I’m making the end grain cutting board from season one. (I’m a woodturner who is trying to learn flat stock woodworking). I ended up with the hard maple edge board being slightly smaller and has small gaps. I did not use 8/4 maple. I used reclaimed hard maple from approaches in a bowling center I used to own so the maple was the first glue up and then cut into the various widths needed. What is the best way to get that board to have parallel sides? I dry clamped the cutting board and could not get rid of the gaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 1, 2019 Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 To clarify, you are at the stage of laminating strips on edge, prior to cross cutting and rotating to the end grain orientation, correct? If so, you really need to joint and thickness the strips to be flat and with parallel faces. Any gaps will weaken the assembly and mar the appearance of the end product. If you have already taken these steps and still have gaps, perhaps your machines need a tune-up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Stoppleworth Posted October 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 No, I’ve cross cut into strips and would normally be ready for the final assembly glue up. My argument with myself was the issue you raised did I use the planer or the jointer. I found a video comparing them and since I have one flat side and a right angle I need to use the planer to get the two sides parallel, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted October 1, 2019 Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 Maybe I'm misreading this. But running an end grain cutting board through a planer is really not the most advisable thing to do. Board explosions have been known to occur. A drum sander would be the best way to achieve flatness on end grain boards. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 1, 2019 Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 Yes, the planer / thicknesser cuts from opposite the flat bed to create a face parallel to the face against the bed. The jointer cuts from the same side as its bed, with the infeed side adjustable in a plane parallel to the outfeed. This allows the head to cut away 'high spots' from the face or edge referenced against the bed. The typical sequence is jointer first, creating a flat face and flat edge perpendicular to that face. Planer second, to flatten the opposite face paralled to the first face, then rip saw the edge opposite the jointed edge to make the two edges parallel to each other. Many use a bandsaw, or tablesaw with a ripping sled, to make an initial (rough) straight edge before going to the jointer. [edit] Just saw @RichardA reply as I was typing, and he is correct. If you have already glued up the pieces so that the end grain is showing on the large faces, putting it through a thickness planer is very risky. Use a drum sander as he suggested, or search Youtube for examples of flattening with a router sled. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Stoppleworth Posted October 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 (edited) The final glue up HAS NOT happened yet. The 1"1/4 inch strips have been cut in preparation for that final glue up. This problem is on the long grain edge of the pieces not the end grain edge. So I can still use the planer, right? Edited October 1, 2019 by Jim Stoppleworth To add more info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted October 1, 2019 Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 Jim welcome to the forum! FWIW pics may help insure everyone is on the same page here 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Stoppleworth Posted October 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 Thanks for the welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 1, 2019 Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 Yes, the planer is safe on the edge grain. Depending on the planer you have, length of the pieces might be a problem. My DW735 creates a pretty significant 'snipe' on pieces less than 14" or so long. That's because I can't lift up one the end of the board to counter the force applied by the end as it passes under a single feed roller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Jim Stoppleworth Posted October 1, 2019 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 I have an older 13inch Craftsman. I’ve planed the pieces with success and the gaps are gone. This cutting board is a gift to son and his family as he bowled on these lanes as a youngster, the other wood is a laminate of he and his wife’s college colors. I will use salad bowl finish on it as I expect it to be a display item in their kitchen and not used. Will post a pic when it is completed. Thanks for the help. As an aside I’m just getting back in the shop after recovering from another heart attack. Feels really good. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 2, 2019 Report Share Posted October 2, 2019 Glad to have you around, Jim. Hopefully, your shop time will ease stress and reduce the risk of future cardiac events! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 2, 2019 Report Share Posted October 2, 2019 Welcome to the forum Jim. Really cool idea of repurposing the lanes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted October 2, 2019 Report Share Posted October 2, 2019 Welcome! I like your idea Jim. It sounds like you got good advice, make sure to share a picture when you are done. There are a lot of smart folks here that taught me a lot about the craft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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