Working with walnut


Tomba

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New to woodworking, I have a few boards of walnut that I'm going to use for a bookcase.  They appear to be less than prime grade wood, there's a few spots with pockmarks and a couple grooves with a soft spongy like feel to it. 

Is there a best practice for dealing with the few pockmarks?  Fill them? Leave it alone?

What is that black spongy stuff in walnut? Should I scrape it out?  Cut it off?

The wood is fantastic otherwise, just a few blemishes. 

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Welcome to the forums!  

Pictures would certainly help.  I'm guessing the grooves with the "spongy like feel" are worm holes which is pretty normal in walnut.  Nothing wrong with filling or leaving, just depends on the look you want.

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The grain tensions are the most variable in the center So when it is ripped it can curve or distort. Walnut from the center is the lowest grade and may cause problems. My first project 40 years ago was this grade of walnut. The boss was on vacation and I was aloud to work for my own project. I made a table. It failed. It started cracking. It was a good lesson. However you should give it a try. You have the wood. And what happened to me may not happen to you. Whatever happens you can learn and grow from the experience.

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7 hours ago, Tomba said:

Thanks so much for the tips, appreciate it.

Any advice on the preferred flavor of West System epoxy?  I need it for a few projects I've got lined up.  I assume slow setting stuff, but I'm not sure what # to get.

I always recommend west system 207 special clear. It is a slower epoxy but has better clarity compared to the others and doesn't turn red over time like some of the others. It leaves the most flexibility. The cost is a bit more but because it mixes at a different ratio you actually get more epoxy and the over all cost per volume is about the same compared to the fast and slow hardener.

It leaves you open to do fiber glass layups if you want or a multitude of non-woodworking applications as well. My west system gets used 50/50 woodworking/other stuff.

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