Bmac

Curly Maloof Rocker

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4 hours ago, Bmac said:

Now you can see I left the ends square and I need to do this to drill the dowel hole into the center of the leg. Marc does this on the lathe and that just looked sketchy to me.

Bmac what strikes you as sketchy about drilling on the lathe?  It's done all the time.

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8 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

@Bmac, the chair parts are shaping up nicely! (pun intended).

For those of us with grinders, but no Festool, I find that a 36 grit flap wheel removes stock rapidly, but leaves a surface comparable to 80 grit on a ROS. Almost as good as a round edge burr wheel for shaping, too. True, the flap wheels wear out, but at least they are an alternative to a somewhat pricey tool.

True, a grinder can do the job well and is a much cheaper alternative.

Still, the RAS is being discontinued by Festool and can be had for a decently reasonable price, around $200. 

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9 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

@Bmac, the chair parts are shaping up nicely! (pun intended).

For those of us with grinders, but no Festool, I find that a 36 grit flap wheel removes stock rapidly, but leaves a surface comparable to 80 grit on a ROS. Almost as good as a round edge burr wheel for shaping, too. True, the flap wheels wear out, but at least they are an alternative to a somewhat pricey tool.

Very true but the dust collection is amazing. You can run the RAS in your shop with out a respirator if you really wanted to. Also Festool resale is pretty good if you bought for $200 you could easily sell for $150. Though i suppose a grinder you could do the same thing but i don't know if it'd be as easy.

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12 hours ago, pkinneb said:

Looks great Bmac!! Thanks again for the journal this will be very helpful when I do mine. 

+ It too will be my go to reference. The grain in the seat is amazing. 

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9 hours ago, K Cooper said:

 The grain in the seat is amazing. 

I tried to get the Houston Boy, to get his big check book out!  :D 

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2 hours ago, Chet said:

I was out of town for a number of days and I was just been catching up on this thread.

When using dominos for alignment on long grain joints, I always use the smallest domino to leave as much long grain for glue as possible and I don't make any effort to get glue in the mortise or on the domino.

I've often wondered about gluing in the dominos, I do it but I always wondered if it was necessary. I've also trended to using the smaller dominos, relying on the long grain bond. I love those little tiny #4 dominos, didn't use them in this project, but I do use them for most of my long grain glue ups.

It's good to hear some of my thoughts are not mine alone. 

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2 hours ago, Bmac said:

I've often wondered about gluing in the dominos, I do it but I always wondered if it was necessary. I've also trended to using the smaller dominos, relying on the long grain bond. I love those little tiny #4 dominos, didn't use them in this project, but I do use them for most of my long grain glue ups.

It's good to hear some of my thoughts are not mine alone. 

I use the #4 dominoes a lot for alignment and don't glue them in. I started throwing the #8s at everything lately though because i have a huge stack of home made stock. I made a bunch of homemade stock to get rid of scraps and it was effective once set up i produced a lot in no time with the drum sander. I like the rough surface right off the drum sander as well. I feel the texture gives a good palce for glue adhesion. I could be wrong thouh, i often am.

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16 hours ago, RichardA said:

17 hours, but not sitting quite yet, but you're closer.

Getting real close is right

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8 hours ago, Chet said:

Looking great B.  And getting there fast.

Thanks, but it does help that I've done this before. Funny thing about this project is you feel like you are going fast then you hit the sculpting stage. For those that do this project for the first time this part can really slow you up. I've gotten much faster at the sculpting, but it still takes a big chunk of time. To me it is also the most satisfying part of this build.

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1 hour ago, wtnhighlander said:

This looks great! Do you find it difficult to 'see' a fair curve across the joint, when the wood grain crosses at 90* like that? 

That's an interesting question. I think when sculpting I don't look at the joint or the grain, I just try to see the curve or silhouette. Look at the silhouette and feel it with your hand, that helps a lot.  

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