Chip Sawdust

Pennsylvania spice box build

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2 minutes ago, Chip Sawdust said:

I’m always trying to find new ways to do things wrong :) 

After doing things wrong often enough I eventually learn how not to do it wrong any more! Sometimes I even figure out how to do it better *shrug* :) 

I wouldn't say doing it wrong. I routinely forget to wax my hand planes and then when i remember i fly across the room because it cuts that much easier.

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The vertical, well all the inner partitions that meet other partitions (in other words, don’t meet the box sides) are joined with a little V groove. The mating piece is vee’d on the end, the notch being about halfway through the 1/4” partition thickness. First for me, and I’d even bought a router bit.p for it. 
But what I hadn’t counted on is the fence on my router table not accommodating a groove nearly 5” from the edge. Most groves are in drawers etc only a small distance from an edge. So I looked around for a piece of wood, put tape on the edge to smooth its surface (it’s MDF, sort of coarse stuff), added a clamp to my bench and used my Kreg clamp on the other end. Hey, it worked :) 

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So the Christmas push is on, and I have a few days off from work and Mama's projects :)

Got a few things done - got all the partitions done as well as the false top (not shown).

 

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Made the back panel, which is 1/4" poplar (the plan called for ash, aint got) which has 1/16" splines and a couple battens with the little brass screws. After putting it together I remembered each piece is supposed to be relieved slightly at the joints but oh well. It will still function just fine.

 

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_4e6.jpg

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Ran into a layout issue; maybe someone can show me where I went wrong. The door panel has an arc to it and I've double checked my measurements but the 6 7/8" arc radius doesn't come out where it's supposed to. I used the drawing measurements and center, but the arc is about 1/8" shy of the top, and it doesn't match up with the sholders it's supposed to meet. Can anyone tell me where I went wrong? Hoping this picture will help...

 

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If I raise the center to get the arc to the top of the wood, it comes up too high on the shoulders, and is already too high on the shoulders as marked. So it's a conundrum, and I figured OK I have a few bits being glued; they need time to dry while I think about it.

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Hmmm.. I guess I'll have to fudge it best I can.

The upper rail has the same curve so they have to match, at least. Then a little stringing and I'm going to insert a little clock I got from Rockler, should be nice. But I fear I won't get it done for Christmas. I worked several hours yesterday and I'm sore this morning!  :)

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Did you try locating the arc center on the pattern with a compass and straightedge, to see if it really is 6 7/8"?  Maybe that dimension is a typo?

 

I like this method I found on stackexchange.com, as it works for circular OR elliptical arcs:

"Draw any two non-parallel chords with endpoints on the arc. For each of these, draw a second chord parallel to the first, also with endpoints on the arc. Construct the midpoint for each chord. For each pair of parallel chords, draw the line through their midpoints. These two lines will intersect at the center of the circle (or ellipse)."

 

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The center line is marked on your pattern? That’s the only trick with arcs. Your focus must lie on that line if the arc is circular. With a pair of dividers you find a point that swings the arc with minimal trial and error. There is a super simple arc rise and width formula that I used to run trim on curved windows and doors. But why bother? Online calculators abound:D

https://www.mathopenref.com/arcradius.html

Remember, inside and outside edges will have different radius values from the same focus. 

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Thanks guys that’s awesome! 
There’s something wrong with the drawing perhaps. Here are two pics, one with the compass on the center point and curve apex, then moved to one side. They don’t match up. 

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The second center is for the inlay on the arc. I may have to trace it or just fudge it. 
Here’s the setup for the compass, aligned with the drawing. Just under 6-7/8” but close enough I wouldn’t otherwise bother. 

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Well Christmas is here and I missed the deadline. But I presented it to my wife anyway, with where it’s at, and she loves it. Now she wants it done :) and that makes two of us. 

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I got stuck with the challenge of a groove on the curved stretcher atop the door. Started making a jig, because the bearing on my slot cutter was way too small... never had a satisfactory answer to a jig, although I did start building one. Eventually I came up with the idea - because I didn’t want to drive into town and buy a bearing - make one of the bearings I had, bigger. Out comes the heater tape and 13 layers later I gave it a shot. Don’t try this at home... but it worked. 

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There’s a sequence ro these things and I hope I’m getting it right! I cut the two circles and started the “leaves” just one side for now. Tomorrow will be the other sides. 

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Chip, that's exactly the sort of solution I tend to come up with! For future projects, you might try cutting the inner radius of the arch smaller, by the offset between your slot cutter's full depth and groove depth you want. Route the groove, then re-cut the arc to the desired radius.

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On 12/30/2019 at 8:13 PM, wtnhighlander said:

Chip, that's exactly the sort of solution I tend to come up with! For future projects, you might try cutting the inner radius of the arch smaller, by the offset between your slot cutter's full depth and groove depth you want. Route the groove, then re-cut the arc to the desired radius.

Ah yes, but you see, you’re speaking from experience! This is the first such door I’ve tried to make so it’s all new to me :) But that does sound like an elegant solution. Of course, I’d already cut my arc to the size it needed to be, no material left to play with.

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