SawDustB

Home made router table dust collection box

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Hey guys,

I've been very slowly finishing up some picture frames for my house. One of the steps that was truly awful was routing out the rabbets for the glass. I'll post pictures when they're done, but I used half lap construction so I couldn't collect dust with the fence. My router table is in my table saw wing, so there's currently nowhere to connect my dust collector, and my shop vac only connects to the fence port.

I've thought before about putting a dust collection box underneath, but I don't think the commercial offerings quite work for me. I want something light and easily removable, given that my router is just in the fixed base and I frequently take it out. I'm thinking of just fastening a clear plastic container to the underside with magnets, with a fitting for the dust collector.

Has anyone tried something like this? It seems like a cheap experiment if I can find a likely bucket.

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Well that will catch dust but not draw it away from your router motor. I found a T fitting (Rockler or Woodcraft) to stick on the backside of my router table, which is one of those enclosed Bosch tables (not really made to mount to a table saw but I did), and I’m able to get a 4” and a 2.5” hose to my DC. I think it’s worth the extra struggle to try to keep sawdust from building up in the router motor. I still blow out my motor now and then with compressed air, so if your solution works, I’d recommend at least doing that periodic maintenance to the router motor. Got pics? 

PS that T fitting swivels which is really handy for the 2.5” side (that goes to the top of the fence).

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+1 to not trapping dust, chips, and hot air around the motor. Unless you really want an excuse to buy a new router..:ph34r:

Adding a box with a dust port and venillation is a good idea though. I suspect screws will do better than magnets at holding under the table.

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If you do a pail, do one of the drywall mud types with a lid. Attach the lid to the bottom and then stick the pail on the lid. Should make getting in and out easy.

If you do an enclosed space yeah make sure that you use DC in that enclosed space for safty reasons obviously. If it's easy to take on and off the times that you don't need under table DC just don't install the pail.

I like traditional DC vs a shop vac for router stuff. The higher volume of air seems to do a better job of grabbing the dust than a shop vac does.

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Sorry if I wasn't clear above. The plan is to run the dust collector with the bucket, and maybe add an adjustable vent for cross air flow. If I do it, I'm going to put a 4 inch port on it. I probably won't bother with the bucket at all for cuts where I can collect everything at the fence, like outside edge treatments. I like the magnet idea to make it really easy to take on and off. I know me, and I'll get lazy and not use it if it takes more than a few seconds to put on. Knobs and threaded inserts or something would also work.

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And sorry if I wasn’t clear in understanding but does your fence not have a dc port? 

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7 hours ago, Coop said:

And sorry if I wasn’t clear in understanding but does your fence not have a dc port? 

It does, there's a port that fits my shop vac. I really need to just post a picture of my current setup. My problem is when I'm using a bearing guided bit on the inside of a glued up frame, as well as routing grooves and dados.

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Ok, here's my current setup in the wing of my table saw. It's a PC690 router with a Kreg plate in a shop made table.

20200211_070751.thumb.jpg.c9de243cfc30898cc8ad57dde6851ba5.jpg

You can see my fence here. It actually does pretty well if the dust is at the edge. The table surface is 1" of glued up BB ply with laminate.

20200211_070802.thumb.jpg.faf162d1aa64c5e98398ba597ce309dd.jpg

Finally, here's the space underneath to work with for putting something over the router. My thought was to find something that went right over the router and plate, mounting to the table around it. Because there's no lift, I need to be able to remove the router to change bits, and height adjustment is a bit crude.

20200211_070851.thumb.jpg.29f5b7c4a240235a505dfce6b4ff4cc8.jpg

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Does the Kreg plate not lift up out the table? My shop-made unit works that way, so I just take the whole assembly out of the table for bit changes and adjustments.

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I think the idea of using a plastic pail for your housing rather than building or buying s box is very clever.  

If I could use magnets to hold the bucket up to the under surface of the table that would be much easier to remove.  Maybe put the magnets on the table so the bucket doesn't want to stick to the router when being removed.

The under surface of your table is not flat, which is actually good.  You need inflow air, and having air flow in from around the bucket rim would be good.  When the job allows I use a throat plate with a larger opening, too.

I also use the Rockler T fitting so I have 4" going to the router and a smaller hose going to the fence.  

Just my thoughts.

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8 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

Does the Kreg plate not lift up out the table? My shop-made unit works that way, so I just take the whole assembly out of the table for bit changes and adjustments.

It certainly can. There are optional machine screws that you can install in the corners to go into the levellers. I put them in because I found it helped completely avoid having any sort of lip at the edge of the plate.

6 hours ago, Mark J said:

I think the idea of using a plastic pail for your housing rather than building or buying s box is very clever.  

If I could use magnets to hold the bucket up to the under surface of the table that would be much easier to remove.  Maybe put the magnets on the table so the bucket doesn't want to stick to the router when being removed.

The under surface of your table is not flat, which is actually good.  You need inflow air, and having air flow in from around the bucket rim would be good.  When the job allows I use a throat plate with a larger opening, too.

I also use the Rockler T fitting so I have 4" going to the router and a smaller hose going to the fence.  

Just my thoughts.

I hadn't thought about just taking advantage of it not being perfect underneath - I was going to try to find something that could go against the laminate. But then I was also going to end up adding a vent. I might just mock it up with a cardboard box. I think I had an Amazon order coming today...

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