wtnhighlander

The ToadStool Table

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How about a third and untried option of wasting away just shy of your line with the saw and then using the router and trammel to get to your line.  might have created less smoking on the cherry.   Kind of an in between the two techniques you used.

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1 minute ago, Chet said:

How about a third and untried option of wasting away just shy of your line with the saw and then using the router and trammel to get to your line.  might have created less smoking on the cherry.   Kind of an in between the two techniques you used.

That method is likely to come up during the edge treatment. But maybe not, as the profile is simple enough to make with spokeshave and block plane. That router mess took longer to clean up than it did to make...

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2 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

That router mess took longer to clean up than it did to make...

Messes are like that.

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It is odd to me to have the cherry be on the bottom but it's what the client wants. Someone is going to find that in 100 years and be confused as heck.

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3 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

Any error will be multiplied 24 times, so pucker factor is high..

I watched a video on this and he talked about how you fix or make adjustments for errors that you may have made during the process.  It was about a year ago but I can't think if it was Fine Woodworking or something on youtube.  I wish I could remember because it might be of help to you.

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Finished a nice stack of blanks, squared and cut to length. Unfortunately, the S3S stock is not all the same thickness, so a trip through the planer is in order before I cut the angles.

20200228_174635.thumb.jpg.63217f046a74fc81251e5d795ab0dcd9.jpg

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I’m glad your geometry is better than mine. Looking darn good so far. This is going to be fun to watch. Glad it’s on your work bench and not mine! 

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20 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

Progress so far includes roughing out the tabletop support braces:

TableTopBraces.thumb.jpg.83f4758f6dc6f42bb0f389f6b423182e.jpg

How are you managing the intersection of the tabletop support braces?

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3 hours ago, Mark J said:

How are you managing the intersection of the tabletop support braces?

They are lapped. A notch half-way across the width of one intersects an opposing notch across half the width of the other. Like how kumiko screens are made.

There is probably a technical name for that, but I don't know it.

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Thanks, Dave. I'm just relieved to be through the making of the coopered staves. All that figuring to get the correct angle seems easy (and it really was), but when it comes to cutting away about 40% of the 2 dozen carefully-made blanks, the tension was pretty high. Fortunately, marking my "test blank" with blue tape, ala @derekcohen, made it simple to align the fence on the sled I built, and achieve consistent, repeatable cuts. I have some process photos, but will have to wait until I travel to civilization tomorrow to upload them. My home is in an internet / cell service phantom zone...

 

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Looks great already, but the best part is yet to come! 

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Well done Ross, i'm really liking this build, very unique and its going to look awesome when its done, any ideas on finish yet?

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Thanks guys. I just stacked it all together for the pic, but I kind of like the braces on top of the cone. If it didn't change the height so much, I'd add a plug in the top of the cone for then to attach, rather than letting them in to the sides of the cone. Maybe next time.

Dave, the finish will be the same as the bar I made for this guy last summer. Cherry will be treated with lye to get that deep red color, and the oak will be grain filled with Plaster of Paris, dyed black, and a 50/50 mix of Minwax  Natural and Provincial (I think. There's a lot left from last time). Wipe on poly to top it off.

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Without letting the cat out of the bag, I bet you have a plan for attaching the top to the base? I don’t dare to ask about the space between the coopered boards. Bondo would be my simple answer but probably not? 

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Coop, the top of the pedestal will be notched to accept the cross-braces, and then pinned with a few screws, nothing too fancy.

The space you see between the staves is just wood being wood. It closes up nicely with a little pressure from a band clamp in the middle. I still have to make a base plate that goes into a dado around the inside of the large end of the pedestal. The plate will hold 3 leveling feet to deal with uneven floors, and possibly some ballast to conterbalance the top. At this point, I'm not sure the balast will be necessary, but I planned for it, anyway.

Before adding glue, I will tighten everything with band clamps, then wrap it in packing tape so the staves stay together like a tambour. Then I can cut the tape along one joint and unroll it to add the glue. The few strips of tape in the photo barely held it together enough for me to stand it up.

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Damn young'un, you're making @chestnut look like a turtle.  You've really knocked this out pretty quick.  Ya done good.

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wtnhighlander I am trying to wrap my head around how you cut these at a taper...can you elaborate? Did you use the bandsaw?

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6 hours ago, RichardA said:

Damn young'un, you're making @chestnut look like a turtle.  You've really knocked this out pretty quick.  Ya done good.

That's a stretch. All I had to do was cut a couple dozen sticks...

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