RunnerRN

Steps for applying polyurethane on raw pine

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I have applied one coat of Minwax wipe on poly on my pine tv stand.  What are the steps to apply the next few coats....What grit of sandpaper should I apply after the first and next coats.  How long should I wait before sanding.  My first coat I applied last night.  How many coats should I apply?  Any tips on getting the best finish?  Thanks!

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I use water based poly, so dry times may be different, but with oil based, overnight works.

I sand to about 180 grt

I put the first coat on

When dry I sand with about 320

Second coat, let dry

Sand with a green scotch brite, which is about 800 grit or so

Third coat and I am done.

 

If you are using a gloss, and want a high gloss finish, further coats and level sanding may be required.  This is for satin finish which I use the most.

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In my experience, the first coat takes longest to cure, but 24 hours is usually enough that it will be dry to touch, and not gum up the sandpaper. Second coat usually dries a bit faster, as less is absorbed into the surface, maybe 12 hrs. By the third coat, 6-8 hours is usually plenty, at least in my environment. The number of coats is up to you, and how thick you want to build. For tabletops, I do 5 or 6, but I use my ROS to sand after the first 2, and the later coats are applied super thin. I usually reserve the satin finish for the last coat to avoid the cloudy look that can happen with too much satin build. Remember to stir the satin well and often, or the flatteners will settle out and leave you with a streaky result.

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Thanks so much!  I am using the wipe on poly so it just says to shake the can up and apply with my rag.  Is that OK?.  I had heard that the polyurethane would show some yellow tones, but I'm not seeing any?

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4 hours ago, Jim DaddyO said:

I use water based poly, so dry times may be different, but with oil based, overnight works.

I sand to about 180 grt

I put the first coat on

When dry I sand with about 320

Second coat, let dry

Sand with a green scotch brite, which is about 800 grit or so

Third coat and I am done.

 

If you are using a gloss, and want a high gloss finish, further coats and level sanding may be required.  This is for satin finish which I use the most.

Thanks so much.  I just have the satin poly and have only applied the first coat last night.  Maybe I will try sanding tonight.

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56 minutes ago, RunnerRN said:

Thanks so much!  I am using the wipe on poly so it just says to shake the can up and apply with my rag.  Is that OK?.  I had heard that the polyurethane would show some yellow tones, but I'm not seeing any?

Yeah, just follow the directions.  Water based won't yellow, but oil and oil modified will add colour, but then again, so will time.  My home is full of pine and it gets darker as it ages.  We love it.

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Great!  That's what I'm hoping for.  I do have the oil based but maybe it will just take time to add some color.  I tried so many times to stain it and nothing seemed to look right.  The more I tried the worse it seemed to get, so I decided to try what was originally suggested months ago when I wanted to stain it.....use a polyurethane instead!  Wish I would have just gone with that in the first place, but I always learn by a lot of trial and error!

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3 hours ago, RunnerRN said:

Great!  That's what I'm hoping for.  I do have the oil based but maybe it will just take time to add some color.  I tried so many times to stain it and nothing seemed to look right.  The more I tried the worse it seemed to get, so I decided to try what was originally suggested months ago when I wanted to stain it.....use a polyurethane instead!  Wish I would have just gone with that in the first place, but I always learn by a lot of trial and error!

Another option if you want the colour right away is a coat of BLO.  Give it a good few days to dry before adding the poly though.

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Thanks.  It just seems pretty plain right now, but I have only put on 2 coats.  I have to sand again and apply another coat today.

 

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If the sun shines in your part of the world this weekend, a littke UV exposure may speed up the process. I have some pine pieces that were surfaced with just poly, and are now about the color of caramel.

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Are you using a gloss or satin poly?  If gloss, just add a coat or two of satin poly, and you should see a marked difference.

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Just use it. It’s soft, it will move a bit, it’ll darken over time. Time will give it character. 

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Place it near a window to get some sunshine. I wouldn't put it outside in Florida, the intense sun and humidity might damage it.

Are you planning to paint the base?

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4 hours ago, RichardA said:

Are you using a gloss or satin poly?  If gloss, just add a coat or two of satin poly, and you should see a marked difference.

This is satin.  Maybe it's how I'm applying it?  I also made the mistake of trying to fix that lousy board by sanding more and it kind of messed up the evenness of the finish.  Maybe by sanding and applying another coat it might help.  What is the best way to do the final finish?

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4 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

Place it near a window to get some sunshine. I wouldn't put it outside in Florida, the intense sun and humidity might damage it.

Are you planning to paint the base?

It is near a window but the sun isn't real strong coming in.  I am planning to paint the base white.  That's what I was going to use when I was staining it darker.  Not sure if it will look as nice now  with just the natural wood, but I already bought the paint and primer.

 

4 hours ago, Tpt life said:

Just use it. It’s soft, it will move a bit, it’ll darken over time. Time will give it character. 

Do you like it so far?

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6 hours ago, Tpt life said:

Just use it. It’s soft, it will move a bit, it’ll darken over time. Time will give it character. 

I saw this post where it says you can apply a thin coat of oil over the polyurethane. to get a more natural look.  I wonder if this would work with danish oil?  https://www.hunker.com/13401697/how-to-get-a-matte-finish-with-polyurethane

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I am not sure what I will do right now.  I may just leave it for a few days and see how I feel about it.  Depending on the light sometimes it looks OK.  I may end up really liking it once I paint the base.  I have spent to much time on this piece that I am afraid to make things worse and making more work again for myself.

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My suggestion, paint the base per your plans, then cover the top with a large TV.  

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Danish oil is a blend of oil(s), resins, and solvents. I would hesitate to apply it over straight polyurathane, as the oil will have no opportunity to absorb into the wood, and likely will remain tacky for a long time. Just paint the base, and let time work its magic.

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Well, I had to work the last few days and left it.  I woke up today and when the light hits it it definitely looks plastic like which was not what I was going for.  It loses the wood feel and look.  I am sure it will protect the surface, but is there anything I can do to help with this?  This is how it looks now.

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