Pool Cue Holder build question

[pkinneb]

Hey folks getting ready to build a pool cue holder similar to the one below. How would you guys go about making the relief cove for the talc cone on the middle shelf? Thinking a router with a cove bit but struggling with how I would avoid slipping one way or the other...maybe a circle jig? Open to any and all suggestions.

 

[Chestnut]

Bearing guided core box bit and a circle cutout. That or the circle jig like you mentioned. I'd cut it on the fullsized board before cutting in the profile detail that it shows.

[Chet]

31 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Bearing guided core box bit and a circle cutout. That or the circle jig like you mentioned. I'd cut it on the fullsized board before cutting in the profile detail that it shows.

I was thinking the same thing.  I just did something similar for a shop project.  Cutting it on a full sized board is something I didn't think for your project but it would be a good idea.

[wtnhighlander]

Looks too small for a typical "beam compass" type jig, so I vote for @Chestnut's idea of a circle cutout and a guide bushing.

Or give me a couple days, I'll rig up something to do it with a tablesaw.....

[Coop]

Just curious. Does it serve a purpose or is it completely aesthetic? 

[pkinneb]

Thanks guys!

48 minutes ago, Coop said:

Just curious. Does it serve a purpose or is it completely aesthetic? 

Serves a purpose the talc cone sits in it

[pkinneb]

So one more question re mounting the rack. Do you folks think two key hole slots in the back would work? Thinking I would use two with lag bolts into the studs. Really would prefer if they didn't show if at all possible...any other suggestions?

 

[pkinneb]

Some progress pics

Cut the ball coves at the TS

After marking the layout I used a router first with a straight bit to hog out most of the material and then with a DT bit to make the slot for the sliding DT's. The sides will attach to the top and bottom with these. I will use domino's for the shelves.

 

[wtnhighlander]

2 hours ago, pkinneb said:

So one more question re mounting the rack. Do you folks think two key hole slots in the back would work? Thinking I would use two with lag bolts into the studs. Really would prefer if they didn't show if at all possible...any other suggestions?

 

Are you talking about keyholes in the wood itself, or steel keyhole plates? 

I feel like the weight may be a touch high for just two keyhole in the wood. I realize that most of the force will be down, not out, but if someone grabs a stick without paying attention, and pulls it against the retainer, it could come off the wall. I would feel better with a fastening that can be tightened in place.

[Chet]

I think I would tend to do something like Ross mentions.  I would want it pretty well secured just in case.  It sounds like you want the option of removing it from the wall down the road.  What about a horizontal sliding dovetail or even two.  If you had the dovetail stand away from the wall you could end up with the appearance of the rack floating in the air. 

[pkinneb]

3 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

Are you talking about keyholes in the wood itself, or steel keyhole plates? 

I feel like the weight may be a touch high for just two keyhole in the wood. I realize that most of the force will be down, not out, but if someone grabs a stick without paying attention, and pulls it against the retainer, it could come off the wall. I would feel better with a fastening that can be tightened in place.

Yeah that's a really good point that I hadn't even thought about Ross, but you know that will happen LOL. It will be dyed black so if I paint a couple screws and inset them into the wood they will blend in. The most important thing is that it stays on the wall  

1 hour ago, Chet said:

I think I would tend to do something like Ross mentions.  I would want it pretty well secured just in case.  It sounds like you want the option of removing it from the wall down the road.  What about a horizontal sliding dovetail or even two.  If you had the dovetail stand away from the wall you could end up with the appearance of the rack floating in the air. 

Hmm food for thought Thanks Chet!!

[Coop]

I recently found these while helping my daughter move from on apartment to another. They come in 1/4” as well. It’s like a typical toggle bolt but the wing nut stays in place and the bolt can be removed and re-inserted. I’ll never use a plain toggle bolt again. 

[Chestnut]

Have room for a french cleat? I've hung a couple 100 lb mirrors in the last week with them.

[pkinneb]

2 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Have room for a french cleat? I've hung a couple 100 lb mirrors in the last week with them.

I may, thanks for the idea!!

[pkinneb]

Thanks Drew I am going to go with your french cleat idea!! Still working on the final layout but that will definitely work. Here are some more progress pics

[pkinneb]

Didn't really plan on doing a build thread on this but...FWIW

Didn't like the fit of the sliding dovetails

These rails are about 55" tall and its hard to keep them flat on the router table. Probably should have cut them by hand but I thought maybe a smooth surface would help so added this

Here' is the result...I can live with that

Then I added the profile to them. I also thinned down the ball shelves and added a round over to the front of those.

That's where I finished for the night.

Off tomorrow and Friday so hope to finish the construction on this tomorrow and then head down to get some plywood and oak to finish the bar cabinets on Friday.

[pkinneb]

More progress today

Cut some curves on the top piece

Then used @Chestnut idea for a french cleat to hang it. Its two thickness' of wood but I thinned them down to 5/8 ish so it blends in better

Then I moved on to make a template for the cove bit to route out the talc shelf. Used the Dewalt mini router with a circle base plate and a nail for a center pin

I left two 1/4" tabs on the last pass so I didn't hink it up. Then cut those and cleaned the up with a rasp and sand paper

Taped the guide down with double sided tape and use the bit I had on hand to rout out the recess

I forgot to take pics but I fired up the lathe (it's been a while) and turned the center post. The post is about 1" round with the base 3/4" x 3/8" deep. I used a forstner bit to drill the hole for it. Pretty much construction complete at this point just need to mark and cut the domino's for the shelves in the morning then break it down and finish sanding it before applying the finish.

I really wish the wind would die down so I could burn my scrap bucket...

[Chet]

Are you using Red Oak for this project?

[pkinneb]

37 minutes ago, Chet said:

Are you using Red Oak for this project?

Yes it will either be stained or dyed black though, still working on the test pieces to see which I like the best.

[wtnhighlander]

Try "cerused"?  Dyed black with pigment rubbed into the deep grain afterward. Silver looks pretty sweet and classy. Fiery red or cobalt blue could look cool if your game room is decorated for more of a "bar with neon signs" jive.

[Chet]

19 hours ago, pkinneb said:

Yes it will either be stained or dyed black though, still working on the test pieces to see which I like the best.

It is some nice looking wood, not a lot of harsh grain that can be common with red oak.

[pkinneb]

That moment in a project when you go SON OF A BEACH!!!

Whew got dang lucky right there...I'm done for the day. Maybe I should go buy a lottery ticket LOL

[RichardA]

Excellent cover.  Only we will know.

[treeslayer]

1 hour ago, pkinneb said:

Whew got dang lucky right there..

Better to be lucky than good sometimes, fortunately you're both Paul, nice save, great looking piece !

[Mark J]

3 hours ago, RichardA said:

Excellent cover.  Only we will know.

Yup!  

So what's it worth to you we don't talk?