pkinneb

Pool Cue Holder build question

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Hey folks getting ready to build a pool cue holder similar to the one below. How would you guys go about making the relief cove for the talc cone on the middle shelf? Thinking a router with a cove bit but struggling with how I would avoid slipping one way or the other...maybe a circle jig? Open to any and all suggestions.

 

ozonepark_2465_842934157__86337.1490639063.jpg?c=2&imbypass=on&imbypass=on

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31 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Bearing guided core box bit and a circle cutout. That or the circle jig like you mentioned. I'd cut it on the fullsized board before cutting in the profile detail that it shows.

I was thinking the same thing.  I just did something similar for a shop project.  Cutting it on a full sized board is something I didn't think for your project but it would be a good idea.

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Just curious. Does it serve a purpose or is it completely aesthetic? 

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Thanks guys!

48 minutes ago, Coop said:

Just curious. Does it serve a purpose or is it completely aesthetic? 

Serves a purpose the talc cone sits in it

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So one more question re mounting the rack. Do you folks think two key hole slots in the back would work? Thinking I would use two with lag bolts into the studs. Really would prefer if they didn't show if at all possible...any other suggestions?

 

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Some progress pics

Cut the ball coves at the TS

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After marking the layout I used a router first with a straight bit to hog out most of the material and then with a DT bit to make the slot for the sliding DT's. The sides will attach to the top and bottom with these. I will use domino's for the shelves.

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2 hours ago, pkinneb said:

So one more question re mounting the rack. Do you folks think two key hole slots in the back would work? Thinking I would use two with lag bolts into the studs. Really would prefer if they didn't show if at all possible...any other suggestions?

 

Are you talking about keyholes in the wood itself, or steel keyhole plates? 

I feel like the weight may be a touch high for just two keyhole in the wood. I realize that most of the force will be down, not out, but if someone grabs a stick without paying attention, and pulls it against the retainer, it could come off the wall. I would feel better with a fastening that can be tightened in place.

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I think I would tend to do something like Ross mentions.  I would want it pretty well secured just in case.  It sounds like you want the option of removing it from the wall down the road.  What about a horizontal sliding dovetail or even two.  If you had the dovetail stand away from the wall you could end up with the appearance of the rack floating in the air. 

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3 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

Are you talking about keyholes in the wood itself, or steel keyhole plates? 

I feel like the weight may be a touch high for just two keyhole in the wood. I realize that most of the force will be down, not out, but if someone grabs a stick without paying attention, and pulls it against the retainer, it could come off the wall. I would feel better with a fastening that can be tightened in place.

Yeah that's a really good point that I hadn't even thought about Ross, but you know that will happen LOL. It will be dyed black so if I paint a couple screws and inset them into the wood they will blend in. The most important thing is that it stays on the wall :) 

1 hour ago, Chet said:

I think I would tend to do something like Ross mentions.  I would want it pretty well secured just in case.  It sounds like you want the option of removing it from the wall down the road.  What about a horizontal sliding dovetail or even two.  If you had the dovetail stand away from the wall you could end up with the appearance of the rack floating in the air. 

Hmm food for thought Thanks Chet!!

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Have room for a french cleat? I've hung a couple 100 lb mirrors in the last week with them.

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2 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Have room for a french cleat? I've hung a couple 100 lb mirrors in the last week with them.

I may, thanks for the idea!!

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37 minutes ago, Chet said:

Are you using Red Oak for this project?

Yes it will either be stained or dyed black though, still working on the test pieces to see which I like the best.

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Try "cerused"?  Dyed black with pigment rubbed into the deep grain afterward. Silver looks pretty sweet and classy. Fiery red or cobalt blue could look cool if your game room is decorated for more of a "bar with neon signs" jive.

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19 hours ago, pkinneb said:

Yes it will either be stained or dyed black though, still working on the test pieces to see which I like the best.

It is some nice looking wood, not a lot of harsh grain that can be common with red oak.

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1 hour ago, pkinneb said:

Whew got dang lucky right there..

Better to be lucky than good sometimes, fortunately you're both Paul, nice save, great looking piece !

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