Hard Wax Oil Finishes


Mark J
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If you're like me and have no idea what anyone is talking about when the subject of Osmo, Rubio and other "hard wax oils" comes up Marc has an interesting video on Rubio.

 

 

But it's a bit confusing.  When you say oil and wax to me I think mineral oil and bees wax, ala Howard's Butcher Block Conditioner.  I gather from the Marc's discussion that this is a curing oil, like Tung?

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7 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Is it long term more durable than poly?

I've had it on our dining table and my desk for just over 2 years. The dining table has a bunch of small scratches (that were hard to photograph) on it but my wife uses the surface for sewing. My desk has a bit of wear around where the mouse is but that's it. 

The 2 best things I like about it are the ease of application and the way it feels. 

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Maybe i have good luck with the poly I use and act quickly to any defects. I've never had the uneven problem you described on touch ups and i never have streaks or application marks. maybe my good experiences with poly are why it's hard for me to understand this?

It's just hard for me to justify moving to a more expensive finish that is less durable when I'm not seeing the commonly discussed drawbacks to traditional poly. I do wish there was a small trial bottle one could buy to test the finish, i really do want to try the finish. It's not that i doubt the claims but there is a cost and risk and it's hard to jump when there is little motivation and a large obstacle in the way (price).

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@Mick S, how did you apply it over polyurethane?  According to Marc the liquid is supposed to absorb into the wood fibers which would be hindered by a coat of PU.  I'm wondering if the improved appearance you obtained  might be the same effect as you would get with furniture wax?  But then the oil does cure.  Which the begs the question why not put down PU and a final coat of hard wax oil?

In any case I think this kind of stuff might be worth trying on a turned object.  After all I like luster.  But I'd want at least a satin sheen.

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4 hours ago, Chestnut said:

It's not that i doubt the claims but there is a cost and risk and it's hard to jump when there is little motivation and a large obstacle in the way (price).

The upfront cost seems high, but here's my experience: I bought a 3 liter can to use on our newly remodeled kitchen cabinets, 15 doors and 12 drawers as well as the exposed ends and face frames, 3 - 4 coats on all of it. With what was left I gave about a pint to my buddy Carl to try, put 4 coats on the Morris chair, same on the Roorkee, coated the desk, a small hall table, several boxes, a bowfront medicine cabinet, a queen size Murphy bed with built in cabinets and still have about ⅔ of a liter. 

I can understand your hesitancy if you're satisfied with the poly you're using, but I just have not had your experience, primarily with ARS. 

2 hours ago, Mark J said:

@Mick S, how did you apply it over polyurethane? 

With a white Scotchbrite pad, just as I do with any other project. I tested it on a small inconspicuous area first. I suspect you're right that it acts more like a wax over the poly, but it made a huge difference. I have not put it over poly any other time and see no need to at all. 

2 hours ago, Mark J said:

In any case I think this kind of stuff might be worth trying on a turned object.  After all I like luster.  But I'd want at least a satin sheen.

My turning instructor, Laura Yeats, uses it all the time.

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1 hour ago, lewisc said:

The lighting is a bit different but this just applied and a couple of years later. I like the satin finish. 

Quick color adjustment on my phone, just for the sake of it. Sheen doesn’t change, but I think it’s a bit easier to compare this way. Hope you don’t mind. 
 

I ordered the satin. After I’ve used it I’ll give a comparison to ARS.


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1 hour ago, Mark J said:

About  2:48 I was about 7 sentences behind due to the accent. I’ll continue to search. 

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