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11 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Because poplar is super boring i'll be giving these a spray of dye before the final top coat.

Or you could paint them to match the wedding colors. ;)

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I guess I'm basing this off of Matt Cremona's sideboard enough that i can reference it. I mentioned in a few other threads that I'm going to make a Sideboard where I will use the interior of the doors

So frame and panel construction isn't the most exciting so i skipped some of the repetitive parts and skipped to the fun parts. Sides together and long rails cut brings us here. The stock f

Finished! I did my usual finish of Minwax Wipe On Poly. The walnut was a bit more wild with it's grain direction than the cherry i'm used to working to so i relied more on sanding then i usually

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This sure is looking good Nut! 

I’m often surprised at how mismatched colors of the same species seem to blend together better than I thought, after applying a finish to them. I think I can handle that better than wonky grain mis-alignment . 

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9 hours ago, Coop said:

I’m often surprised at how mismatched colors of the same species seem to blend together better than I thought, after applying a finish to them. I think I can handle that better than wonky grain mis-alignment . 

Defiantly true. I think i may have mentioned it in the post but the pictures do not to the color difference justice. It'd have looked off even with finish. I sometimes check with denatured alcohol or mineral spirits just to see what the finish will do for that reason.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thought just popped into my head, Chestnut,  if you're still planning to have your wedding guests sign the inside of the door you might want to pick up an archival ink pen for the purpose.  That's what a lot of turners use to sign their pieces.  Hobby Lobby and Dick Blick have them.  By the way, I usually put the ink on the bare wood, then apply the surface coatings.  I've never had a problem with my varnish, but you'll want to test what works with the coatings you use.  

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58 minutes ago, Mark J said:

Thought just popped into my head, Chestnut,  if you're still planning to have your wedding guests sign the inside of the door you might want to pick up an archival ink pen for the purpose.  That's what a lot of turners use to sign their pieces.  Hobby Lobby and Dick Blick have them.  By the way, I usually put the ink on the bare wood, then apply the surface coatings.  I've never had a problem with my varnish, but you'll want to test what works with the coatings you use.  

Ya gotta wake up earlier than now to beat Megan. She already discussed marker options and had me buy some and complete some tests. We decided on these. Most of the colors work great on walnut but there are some that don't show up. We just won't bring the colors that don't work as well along.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DPLQJVN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I intend to let people do what ever they wish. If they want to use colors and paint a picture I'll invite them to be as detailed as they wish. I am struggling with being optimistic about this though. As the day draws near it feels like less and less people will be able to be at the wedding. I'd love to have everyone I know sign these things so in 50 years when i open these doors the signatures/doodles can be there as a reminder. I hope the ink won't fade much, i expect it will some, but these will be close 99.9% of the time. I will be putting a coat of finish over top.

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I have heard that not everything that is "permanent" is actually so.  I don't know what the truth is, but the wood art collector/maker crowd get their shorts knotted up about this.  That's why I bought "archival ink" pens to mark my pieces --just in case I become famous one day and it matters.  Since these signatures are inside the cabinet and not exposed to light there may not be an issue, but just thought I'd share the thought.  

Not at all thorough, but here's a couple of web pages:  

https://sciencing.com/contained-permanent-marker-5070622.html

https://blog.penvibe.com/sharpies-fade/

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6 minutes ago, Mark J said:

I have heard that not everything that is "permanent" is actually so.  I don't know what the truth is, but the wood art collector/maker crowd get their shorts knotted up about this.  That's why I bought "archival ink" pens to mark my pieces --just in case I become famous one day and it matters.  Since these signatures are inside the cabinet and not exposed to light there may not be an issue, but just thought I'd share the thought.  

Not at all thorough, but here's a couple of web pages:  

https://sciencing.com/contained-permanent-marker-5070622.html

https://blog.penvibe.com/sharpies-fade/

Meh it'll stick around long enough for my purposes. In 100 years i doubt anyone will be able to determine who the signatures belonged to, let alone care if they are faded. Will they fade to nothing ... idk I probably won't be around. In 4 billion years the sun is going to burn the earth away to nothing any way so all is helpless.... :D.

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15 hours ago, Mark J said:

I have heard that not everything that is "permanent" is actually so.  I don't know what the truth is, but the wood art collector/maker crowd get their shorts knotted up about this.  That's why I bought "archival ink" pens to mark my pieces --just in case I become famous one day and it matters.  Since these signatures are inside the cabinet and not exposed to light there may not be an issue, but just thought I'd share the thought.  

Not at all thorough, but here's a couple of web pages:  

https://sciencing.com/contained-permanent-marker-5070622.html

https://blog.penvibe.com/sharpies-fade/

Interesting, I've noticed sharpies do not hold up and have been burning my signatures lately. What "archival pen" are you using.

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3 hours ago, Bmac said:

Interesting, I've noticed sharpies do not hold up and have been burning my signatures lately. What "archival pen" are you using.

I guess the brand is Pigma.  I've seen them at Hobby Lobby and Blick's.  Here's a picture:

20200820_080253.thumb.jpg.f9bcbca296f19009374af19f53874068.jpg

A lot of people prefer to burn their signatures and that's probably best.  My name is long and my hand writting is crap so I came up with a hallmark and had a branding iron made.  I use the archival pen to put a number and date on the piece.

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19 hours ago, Mark J said:

I have heard that not everything that is "permanent" is actually so.  I don't know what the truth is, but the wood art collector/maker crowd get their shorts knotted up about this.  That's why I bought "archival ink" pens to mark my pieces --just in case I become famous one day and it matters.  Since these signatures are inside the cabinet and not exposed to light there may not be an issue, but just thought I'd share the thought.  

Not at all thorough, but here's a couple of web pages:  

https://sciencing.com/contained-permanent-marker-5070622.html

https://blog.penvibe.com/sharpies-fade/

Ok I guess i do care. I've spent probably 4 hours researching markers now. From what I can tell there are metallic particles in the sharpie markers so the metallic ones should be somewhat light fast BUT it's uncertain. What I'm going to do is mark on a board that's been sealed and set it outside in direct sunlight for a week or 2 and see what happens. I'll put painters tape over part of the marks so i have a baseline, I"ll also mark another piece and keep that inside.

I bought a set of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072KDJ9PL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 after finding a recommendation on an art website.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Drew, great instructional, verbal and pics. I remember building a guild project of Marc’s a few years ago where he used the jig for the tails on the bs and it worked great. I like the idea of the backer board when finessing the pins. Thanks for sharing. 

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Sorry if you have already indicated but what type of glides will you be using or am I getting ahead of you? Gotta be wood tongue and groove as mechanical glides don’t support a non square application but don’t see a groove yet. 

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9 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

Do you have a rule of thumb to go by for determining when the drawer width to depth ratio is like to cause racking problems?

Not particularly, The 8 Drawer Dresser in Walnut I made had drawers that were 32" x 22" and they have no problems. I'd keep it under 2:1 width to length.

I guess I'm not always sure what someone defines as a problem. By  no problems i mean the drawer slides in and out effortlessly. If you pull side to side on the knob the drawer will rack but doesn't stick.

I also am a STRONG opponent of 2 handled drawers. Had them on my childhood dresser and it's impossible to open the drawer or close the drawer 1 handed without it sticking.

9 hours ago, Coop said:

Sorry if you have already indicated but what type of glides will you be using or am I getting ahead of you? Gotta be wood tongue and groove as mechanical glides don’t support a non square application but don’t see a groove yet. 

I'll take some pictures for a future post but it's going to just be simple bottom edge supported with a runner and side constrained by a rail. Not doing grooves or anything super special like that. I should but i always forget to plan it out.

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