What came in the mail today?


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This took 7 months to get to me.

Today this flew into the shop

30 bdft of quartersawn white oak and 10bdft of maple from Bell Forest.  

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22 hours ago, Chestnut said:

So does this look unbareably painful?

I could do that, as long as it was smooth wood deck under the snow. Rough concrete or lawn would have me running right back inside.

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On 1/29/2021 at 5:42 PM, Coop said:

A combo retirement/bd gift from my son.

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And from my wife!

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With the saw, what's the max depth of cut on that? I can't seem to find that info out on the specs of that tool anywhere. 

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30 minutes ago, drzaius said:

The problem is that the deeper the cut with a jigsaw, the more the bottom of the cut wants to wander.

This is true but with having a band saw my jig saw gets used primarily to break down lumber and for that the Milwaukee M18 Fuel is a beast wit power to spare

6 hours ago, Bmac said:

With the saw, what's the max depth of cut on that?

I use a blade from Bosch that is 4 inches long but its maximum cutting stroke is a little more then 2 inches below the sole of the saw.  With that blade I have had zero problems powering through 8/4 material.  Bosch sells blades of the same type that are longer if you need to go through thicker material.

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As DeWalt sold kits several years ago that included the Sawsall, cheaper than I could buy the individual tool I needed, I now have three of these. Unfortunately all require the 18v battery. 

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8 hours ago, Chet said:

When you start a major remodel or demo work in your house there is a good chance the need will kick in.  After having it for that you may find other uses for it.  They actually have a blade for tree trimming that I use a lot in mine, also good for removing a pesky root.

I’ve probably used my current recip saw for trimming limbs and roots, etc more than for anything else. It works really well.

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21 hours ago, Chestnut said:

A sawzall is the one tool i don't have. For some reason i just never ran into the need to buy one.

Fished with a guy that used his sawzall to clean fish. Granted these where fish that are notoriously hard to clean, large black drum. It worked well going thru their thick scales, but it was alittle messy in the end.

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Got a box full of USA made Grade 70 chain for use with the soon-coming tractor. Not in the mail, but I picked up a 55” guide rail for my recently purchased track saw (no rail included). 

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On 2/1/2021 at 6:59 PM, wtnhighlander said:

If you need longer than 4" and can't use a bandsaw, its time to break out the Sawzall / Sabresaw / Reciprocating wand of destruction.

I used to have a Porter Cable jigsaw that could mount sawsall blades. Almost always more trouble than it was worth, but there's something fun about putting an 8" demo blade into a jigsaw. Handy for cutting 4x4 posts quickly, but that was about it.

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On 1/15/2021 at 11:26 PM, pkinneb said:

Hey John your way ahead of me I have had mine for 4 years and its still not put together :)


Looks like I won’t be taking the crown from you.

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27 minutes ago, jussi said:

Decided to get the barrel grip version. 

I'll be interested in hearing how you like it.  They didn't have that version when I got mine.

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52 minutes ago, Chet said:

I'll be interested in hearing how you like it.  They didn't have that version when I got mine.

There 3 main differences are the grip, trigger and variable speed location. The following opinions are based on corded versions I had in the past but I think they should apply to cordless models as well.

1. For me the barrel grip provides better accuracy when doing curves.  I find I have more control over the tool since you hold the tool closer to the blade. 

2. The D-handle has a trigger while the barrel grip has a switch.  I personally like the trigger better but that is not really possible to have on the barrel grip.  It's also safer because you don't have to let go of the tool to turn it off or use your off hand.

3. The variable speed on the D-handle is in the trigger itself.  The barrel grip has a dial.  Both have their advantages.  With the D-handle if you're cutting along and suddenly hit a knot or something you can slow down the cut much easier and faster.  Not really possible with the barrel grip as you would need to stop and turn the dial down then turn it up again once you get past.  But maintaining a constant speed thats NOT full speed can be a little difficult sometimes (at least for me).  I end up pressing the trigger too much or too little and I inadvertently change the speed.  With wood it's not really a big deal, especially if you're going to clean it up afterwards but if you're ever cutting aluminum, plexiglass, etc that's where I find the biggest advantage of a dial speed control.

 

If you're primarily gonna use it for rough cutting I think the D-handle is the way to go.  The trigger is much easier and quicker to use than the switch IMO.  But if you're doing alot of curves and want to get pretty close to the line I like the barrel grip better.  I actually had the D-handle version but sold it a couple of days after I got this one.  If I could afford it I would have kept both.

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