Under cabinet for desk


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Finished! Thanks all for watching, and to those that gave advice, super appreciated.  

I tried to get some of the sides evened up with a shooting board that I built a year ago and never used until today. I think I need to learn how to use it better because I sucked.  +  

Last month I finished my desk build. In a way it was only half the job, because I wanted to minimize the work so I wasn't stuck on another 8-10 month project. So I designed the desk in a way that I co

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I see nothing to really complain about. You are at the point where I would sand a very light chamfer around all the edges to create shadow lines to disguise any remaining inconsistency. If you can't see it, it isn't there, right? :ph34r:

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I think your drawers gaps look great. When i do BB slides i typically do false fronts and then attach them after everything is mounted up so i can use spaces to set the gap.

When i do try and even gaps I make the drawer front a bit large and then use a hand plane to slowly bring it to size.

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Right on. Thanks for the opinions all. I'm about 5 hours or so into adjusting these drawers. I'll see what I can get tonight. I know some of them can be taken care of with sanding and planing. So far I've just tried to take care of the ones that i had to adjust the slides on. 

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7 hours ago, Chestnut said:

I think your drawers gaps look great. When i do BB slides i typically do false fronts and then attach them after everything is mounted up so i can use spaces to set the gap.

When i do try and even gaps I make the drawer front a bit large and then use a hand plane to slowly bring it to size.

I may try false fronts next time. I spent quite some time making sure that my fronts were perfectly cut then was hoping the slide placement would be perfect and everything would fall into place. But that never happens haha. 

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Cliff, I would be more concerned about all the drawers closing flush. If that part is good, close them and wipe some mineral spirits to show the post-finish color. You may find that the variance you see now is greatly diminished in appearance.

Or go watch videos of traditional japanese cabinetmakers building cases with perfect waterfall grain match and hidden dovetail mitered corners, filled with piston-fit drawers, all made with hand tools. Then realize what you are doing requires patience more than skill, calm down, and work it through. I am confident that you can come as close to being satisfied with the results as any of us are with our own work. Since we are never completely satisfied, are we? :P

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53 minutes ago, Cliff said:

Glued in a strip to act as a stop for my top drawer. I'm going to have to figure out a semi-permanent solution to keep the drawer in though, cause it's very short and will easily be pulled out and fall on the floor.

IMG_20200820_173751.thumb.jpg.760ea51c38a686ffb0abc0ea29c88ef5.jpg

IMG_20200820_173829.thumb.jpg.0932e212ccdd67fe9c0e2c29ec5e800a.jpg

Sanded, chamfered, etc. Finish on the case. Using Rubio Monocoat.

I'm really happy with the grain. It's not perfect but it's by far the best I've ever done.

IMG_20200821_164146.thumb.jpg.aaebe02d51c34b54e3082d434cd200fe.jpg

 

IMG_20200821_164220.thumb.jpg.f92bbcb9e6bbf650195e055933b784ef.jpg

Looks very nice and I really like the grain.  Your shop looks like you have made some changes also.

 

 

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2 hours ago, treeslayer said:

Real nice Cliff and the grain on those drawer fronts really pop with the finish, and while we’re on the subject what did you use for finish? 

Rubio monocoat

57 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said:

Wow! That really stands out with finish and hardware applied. Very nice!

See, it really was worth all the worry, wasn't it?

I really think it was. 

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Very nice Cliff, great result and great grain selection. That was air dried walnut, correct? I don't think you typically see those colors in kiln dried.

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