Forgot your password?
Or sign in with one of these services
Tom King, July 16 in Off-Topic
I don't think that's a job for a beginner.
He messed up! Could've cut it a foot lower and got some more board feet! That second saw he grabbed is a monster!
I watched a lot of Hotsaws101 on youtube the guy knows saws and he cuts down a few trees in some interesting ways. Most of his stuff is loging related so he is just dropping moster redwoods with the only risk being his own health.
This was a good vid, good share Tom
This one made had my mouth hanging open.
I think that saw is older than 25 years old. I wonder how many times he's been in the bottom end of it. You can keep rebuilding those pro saws.
I have an 036, that was new in 1999, that I'm getting ready to split the case on, for the first time. It'll be the first time for the bottom end. I have no doubt that his 064 has been used a lot more than any of my saws.
I"m not sure honestly. I know he does porting and rebuild work for people. I can't imagine that he'd take someone else's saw out to do paid work but maybe that's in his agreement under testing. It seems like every video he's using a different saw so either he has a container full of saws (which he probably does) or he runs some of his porting jobs under "testing".
I need to learn more on maintaining pro saws as i own one and using it for milling is not exactly an easy use case.
Tom you asked me a while ago if I use the compression release on my 661. Yes i do nearly every time I start the saw for one main reason. When the saw is mounted in the Alaskan mill and is on the log ready to go, it's difficult to hold it still enough to start without the release.
They're easy to work on, for replacing any part, but you do need some specialized tools for pulling the flywheel, and splitting the case. The case only needs to be split if you need to replace the crank bearings, or crank. The cylinder, and piston can be replaced with a T27 wrench, and 8mm nut driver. That 660 can do a Lot of work, so it should take a decade of use before you need to go into it.
Don't buy the expensive seal puller. Best tool for that is a tool truck (Mac, Snapon, etc.) cotter pin puller. The crank seals will be the first things that need to be replaced, but they should last years, even with heavy use. If it ever gets so it won't idle nicely, make sure the seals are good (pressure test the crankcase), or the piston can get scored from it running too lean. You need to pull the flywheel, and clutch, to replace the crank seals, but it's an easy job.
There are good youtube videos on anything you need to do to one.
File this in your chainsaw file:
There are youtube videos on doing any part of disassembly, and assembly of the Pro saw cases. I do things a bit differently. You will see people tear one down, and them beat on the end of the crankshaft, to get it aligned correctly, with a hammer. I don't like to hit any part of it with any kind of hammer.
The crank bearing on the oil pump side sticks out a little from the case, and the oil pump goes over it. Without going into reasons, the short story is you don't want it to stick out too far, or the oil pump won't go all the way back on, and you don't want it not far enough out. Measure the projection, and press the new one in to match.
The clearance between the counterweights on the crankshaft, and the opening in the case, is not much. This is where you see people hitting the ends of the crank to get it centered, after the case is back together. I measure the clearance, on both sides, BEFORE splitting the case. Once the old crank is out, measure the width across both counterweights, and compare it to the new. Simple math will tell you how much clearance you need, on each side, for the new one.
I use a shop press for each step, including installing the bearings. I use wooden cribbing to get a support under the case, that allows me to use the little depth gauge protrusion on the end of 6" digital calipers for things like bearing projection.
Write all the measurements down when you take them. Put it back together right to start with, and you don't have to hit anything with a hammer.
In short, don't get in a hurry to tear one down. Use the teardown to educate yourself about how it needs to go back together.
The tools from H&L supply work fine, and are cheap. I think the flywheel puller is something like 8 bucks.
They're really easy to work on, and it gives you a good opportunity to get everything cleaned out good.
I agree Tom, hammers on engine parts would be an extremely rare thing. If it was a junk engine I was taking apart for parts salvage, maybe. If something was seized, but yeah - they require finesse and proper technique/tools.
You can post now and register later.
If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Pasted as rich text. Paste as plain text instead
Only 75 emoji are allowed.
Your link has been automatically embedded. Display as a link instead
Your previous content has been restored. Clear editor
You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.