Diving in with a Kayak Build


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Man that looks awesome. Did the walnut come in the kit or was that something you made? I can't remember if you did your own cove and bead for your SUPs?

Some day i want to do a canoe from scratch. It would be cool to so paulownia but that's probably not feasible.

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Alright, I have not been hiding, I've been varnishing my a*% off. Four coats top and four coats bottom after a lot of fairing and sanding of the epoxy base. After varnishing, on went the additions tha

I've been a little quiet on here lately. Since going back to the dental office, I've had 3 months of patients backed up. This has really cut into my free time so I'm needing this project to give me so

Quick update, the strip deck is just about completed. A lot of fiddling to get the pieces to fit and you really can do all of this by hand. I've been using a handsaw, block plane and rasps to fit toge

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25 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Man that looks awesome. Did the walnut come in the kit or was that something you made? I can't remember if you did your own cove and bead for your SUPs?

Some day i want to do a canoe from scratch. It would be cool to so paulownia but that's probably not feasible.

They included the walnut with the kit. The kit has 3 wood strips, walnut, alaskan white cedar and western red cedar. I did not do cove and bead with my SUPs. The bead and cove really help to get a closed joint as you connect the strips on a curved surface. If you start 90 degree edges, you'd have to bevel the edge based on the curve. With bead and cove the joint is always closed. My SUPs were pretty flat so I was able to use 90 degree joints.

I could make some strips, key would be to find straight grained wood, knots and imperfections would not be able to tolerate some of these curves. 

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41 minutes ago, Bmac said:

I could make some strips, key would be to find straight grained wood, knots and imperfections would not be able to tolerate some of these curves. 

I can't remember the strip width but my thought if i did it would be to slice up 8/4 material.

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It's gorgeous. 

The thing that impressed me the most, in the American History Museum, at the Smithsonian, was the very old kayak built by Eskimos.  It was a thing of beauty, and necessary for their survival, all made by hand with primitive tools.  I think the skin was seal skin.

I looked for a picture, but couldn't find the exact one.  They went out in these, in water cold enough to kill you if you fell in, to feed their families.

See the source image

 

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My finger is hovering over a cove and bead bit to cut planking, as well as the plans for the canoe I want to build....

2 hours ago, Bmac said:

I know @Chestnut, I'm dragging on this build.

I was in no way stating that you were working slowly. I meant that i haven't even seen the finished product yet and It's already giving me the itch to make a canoe. In fact your pace is astounding.

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1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

My finger is hovering over a cove and bead bit to cut planking, as well as the plans for the canoe I want to build....

I was in no way stating that you were working slowly. I meant that i haven't even seen the finished product yet and It's already giving me the itch to make a canoe. In fact your pace is astounding.

OK, got it, I see what your saying, but I feel like I'm dragging, really wanted to get all this done over the past weekend.

Curious, what canoe plans are you looking into?

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55 minutes ago, Bmac said:

Curious, what canoe plans are you looking into?

I've always had my eye on bear mountain boats. I want to build a canoe that is nice and stable and good for 2 adults plus some gear, so probably the Freedom 15'. It'd also be nice to get a lighter canoe hence the 15' length. I'm not an expert paddler so getting something less stable but more maneuverable isn't really in my wheel house.

I'm really tempted to do my own planking and just use scarf joints as I doubt I'm likely to get long enough material. I'm still mulling over the large cost of buying pre-made planking.

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The black supports are going to be returned to the bolts after all is cured.  But it looks like the epoxy is kinda mounded up and might prevent the support from seating. Is that an illusion? 

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1 hour ago, Mark J said:

The black supports are going to be returned to the bolts after all is cured.  But it looks like the epoxy is kinda mounded up and might prevent the support from seating. Is that an illusion? 

No, it is not an illusion, they is a slight mound around the bolt. The mound is some filled epoxy to give some holding strength to the bolt. It may slightly affect the seating, but more than likely not as there is some relief on the underside of the foot support. 

The foot supports won't be placed until I'm done construction, tape on threads of bolts protects any wayward epoxy from creating a problem as the deck is epoxied on next.

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35 minutes ago, Dave H said:

Looking great Bmac another beautiful project done at break neck speed. I wish I hit all my projects with the drive you demonstrate, my list of things to do would be a lot shorter.

LOL no kidding!

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For glassing, or coating in hard to reach hull to deck joints in Hobie Cats, I used to use a sheepskin corner roller.  If it required a layer of cloth, I'd lay the tape out on cardboard, saturate it, and wind it around the roller.  Then roll it out in place.  There was a problem with Hobie 18 lips leaking where the tramp frame was riveted through the lip.  The only access was an 8" port in the deck.

  I first tried a foam roller, but never again because the foam melted.  I can't remember where I found those sheepskin corner rollers, or even if they are still available.  Some of the fiberglass suppliers sell different width brush rollers that might work, but I was always worried about the rolled up tape getting caught on the bristles, so never tried it.  The sheepskin would hold a fair amount of resin, thickened, or not.

Looking at this thread should make it Much more obvious, and helpful to anyone new, thinking about building one.  I wish I had the time.  I would really enjoy building one.  I enjoy watching you build it, anyway.

Edited to add:  They still make them, but not at disposable prices, like they were back in the '80's.  https://www.amazon.com/MARSHALLTOWN-CR3-3-Inch-Corner-Roller/dp/B003A83GQY

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13 hours ago, Bmac said:

Glass in place prior to wetting, I'm going to wrap the glass from the deck to the hull to reinforce that joint;

IMG_2729.jpg.344b8e694ad108f456eb0569e944ab2d.jpg

After wetting with epoxy;

IMG_2730.jpg.a2d1366043b9c0a1c7caba6f64188556.jpg

Did the glass get trimmed after the first picture above? The reason I ask is because it looks like there are some folds in the fiberglass sheet along the edges. If the glass does get some folds how does that look after everything is covered with epoxy? My final question is how heavy is the fiberglass? It seems like it should be kind heavy but i have a feeling that it is deceptively light.

Also i can't help but notice that this doesn't look like your shop. Does it make the project more difficult not working in your shop or because it was a kit it doesn't matter much?

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