clear finish on garage floor


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Anyone sealed their concrete garage floor? what about dyed the concrete then sealed it? 

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Paint-Concrete-Coatings-Concrete-Sealers/N-5yc1vZcj9b

I was looking into doing the rock solid metallic epoxy floor but everyone says you need double what it calls for so for 616sqft it would be around 900$ in material, plus a lot of mixed results. Starting to think maybe I just seal the concrete. 

Let me know if you have had success with the dying or sealing or thoughts on best way to treat it. I'd like to do this before I start moving tools and dirtbikes in. 

here's an example of sealed garage floor, gives it a nice shiny look
basement_1.jpg

here's an example of stained concrete, I just havent been able to find my info on how well it holds up for garages and the process
stained-concrete-concrete-floors-az-conc

this is the rock solid metallic epoxy
RockSolid-metallic-garage-floor-silver-b

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I've been tossing around the garage floor coating for my garage and i came to the conclusion that after the cost of everything it's almost the same price to hire a professional and have it done by them. IIRC i got a quote from a guy that was around 4-5$ a SF but that included grinding and surface prep. Those kits are about $2 a SF but doesn't include the prep.

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I wonder if it would be slick? I worked at a place that had some polished concrete floors and I remember a lot of women slipping. I don't know how it would be with sawdust on top.

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3 hours ago, Chestnut said:

I've been tossing around the garage floor coating for my garage and i came to the conclusion that after the cost of everything it's almost the same price to hire a professional and have it done by them. IIRC i got a quote from a guy that was around 4-5$ a SF but that included grinding and surface prep. Those kits are about $2 a SF but doesn't include the prep.

If you are going to drive on it and especially if you will get road salt on it I would definitely agree. If not The Epoxysheild has held up great and was less than $300 for the whole shop.

Yes the floors will be slick unless you use an additive which most have available. The flecks you see in my floor do just that and I have never found it to be an issue.

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I have done it.  

I used the stain and clear coat from this vendor: https://www.legacyindustrial.net.  I was going to epoxy, but this was a bit less expensive. The floor was in a brand new house, which limited the prep required.

It was amazing.  I really liked it, and it held up to driving on it, parking hot tires, melting snow, a 16 inch Grizzly planer being wheeled around on it, you name it.  

It could be slippery with sawdust on it.  There is an additive recommended for that.  Basically, you sprinkle a "sand like" finish on top as it is drying.  If you like, you can decide where you want the non skid, and where you don't need it.

It's more expensive, but is more durable than the Rustoleum you can find at Home Depot and such.

I can't tell you how well it hold up, as I sold the house after three years.  Given the opportunity, I would do it again.

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6 minutes ago, Don Z. said:

I have done it.  

I used the stain and clear coat from this vendor: https://www.legacyindustrial.net.  I was going to epoxy, but this was a bit less expensive. The floor was in a brand new house, which limited the prep required.

It was amazing.  I really liked it, and it held up to driving on it, parking hot tires, melting snow, a 16 inch Grizzly planer being wheeled around on it, you name it.  

It could be slippery with sawdust on it.  There is an additive recommended for that.  Basically, you sprinkle a "sand like" finish on top as it is drying.  If you like, you can decide where you want the non skid, and where you don't need it.

It's more expensive, but is more durable than the Rustoleum you can find at Home Depot and such.

I can't tell you how well it hold up, as I sold the house after three years.  Given the opportunity, I would do it again.

awesome thanks for the info! do you remember which sealer you used from hem and which color dye? I see they have a couple of options

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I used an acid stain that you had to neutralize after laying down.  I don't see that on their site anymore, but this seems to be an equivalent:

https://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/concrete-stain-and-dye/deltadye-concrete-stain.html

They have three compatible sealers listed, the second one looks ideal, as well as the "soft skid" they say to use on the last coat.

They have really great customer service, so you can give them a call and tell them what you are doing.  There's also a forum at the garagejournal.com site that has a flooring sub-forum, and they post there.

 

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13 hours ago, Don Z. said:

I used an acid stain that you had to neutralize after laying down.  I don't see that on their site anymore, but this seems to be an equivalent:

https://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/concrete-stain-and-dye/deltadye-concrete-stain.html

They have three compatible sealers listed, the second one looks ideal, as well as the "soft skid" they say to use on the last coat.

They have really great customer service, so you can give them a call and tell them what you are doing.  There's also a forum at the garagejournal.com site that has a flooring sub-forum, and they post there.

 

 

just emailed them

"what dye and seal would you recommend for my carport and garage? or should I not do the carport since it is semi outdoors? gets to about 105* summer and 25* winter" 

they recommended: 

DeltaDye and HD6600MMA 

I'll probably add the soft skid fine to for the grip  

 

Wonder if it would hold up well in the direct sun as I have that pad in front of the garage too 

IMG_8655.thumb.JPG.75bb6b9daec39c7e9fa9bddec2e9fa31.JPG

 

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47 minutes ago, Tpt life said:

For me, it’s one or the other. To remove any contaminant, either grind or acid etch. Each has ups and downs. Acid inside requires a respirator. A wet grinder might not. 

ahh ok I thought it was both grind and acid etch. which one takes longer? seems like a grinder would do a better job though 

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Grinding would take longer. I think acid might neutralize some of those things your grinder might have to go a long way to get. The grinders benefit is that it also takes care of bumps etc. 

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I sprayed white Moisture Cure Urethane on an airplane hanger floor.  That guy sold that house a couple of decades ago, and the new owner told me, a few years ago, that the floor still looked great.  In our dogroom, we have 12" square industrial vinyl tile, that I put clear MCU on in 2006.  There are not scratches in it now, but the tile has let go underneath in a few places, so I will need to redo the whole floor at some point.

MCU is some Durable stuff.  The trouble is that it outgasses every toxic solvent on the dangerous chart, except for gasoline, and I'm sure they don't even sell it in California.  I use supplied air when I spray it.  The owner of that first hanger called a couple of years ago, wanting me to do another floor for him, but he was farther than 10 miles away, so I didn't want to do it.  The first one was for an amphibian plane that he landed on the lake, and kept in the hanger.  White floors are popular in airplane hangers.  

There are all sorts of clear waterbourne floor finishes that are pretty durable, but none as tough as MCU.

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my head keeps spinning with all the options.. 

since I'll have motorcycles on half the shop oil and gas might be spilled which led me to this Foundation Armor UTN60 which claims to be resistant of gas/oil and seems to get good reviews. thinking I'll dye the concrete with a grey/dark grey marble look and if stains get down maybe they'll disappear?

https://www.foundationarmor.com/aliphatic-urethane-coating

https://www.amazon.com/Aliphatic-Urethane-Concrete-Coating-Resistance/dp/B00Q00MG88/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=utn60&qid=1599029264&sr=8-1

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Foundation-Armor-UTN60-3-gal-Clear-High-Gloss-2-Part-Concrete-and-Garage-Floor-Coating-with-Oil-Gas-and-Scratch-Resistance-UTN603GAL/205719806

3 gallons = 274$ and covers around 800-1000 sqft, so I think I can get 2 coats out of it on my 616sqft garage

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Also, anyone who has done floors, if you add the non slip agent does that make it hard to clean up spills with paper towels? like the paper towel sticks to the floor and breaks up? trying to figure out if I should add it or not 

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I'd add it. I've been on floors without falling on your rear is worse than the cleanup downside. It still wipes up fine. Its not really gritty like sand paper its more just bumpy. Like a lot of dust nibs on a finish.

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