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Talk to your local paint supplier, like Sherwin-Williams or PPG. Getting a good finish is as much about the paint as the applicator. The box stores will generally sell you anything, but my experience is that the speacialty shops are better for focussing on the needs of your application.

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Graco airless units work pretty slick. I have this guy ( https://www.amazon.com/Graco-Magnum-262800-Airless-Sprayer/dp/B0026SR0FW/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=graco+airless&qid=1606317500&sr=8-2) and it works really well. I'd bet the smaller handheld units would work well too. I like the large unit painted my whole house with it. I'll be using it for interior painting as well, you just can't beat the speed for covering large blank areas.

Only other recommendation is depending on the paint you want to spray. HVLP units can spray some of the thinner paints like Milk Paint possibly tinted lacquers pretty well but then can also be used for clears and dyes. My HVLP gets a LOT more use than my airless.

I got out of painting stuff but just saying "If you wanted it painted I'll make the furniture and you can paint it. I can help you get started" Never took me up on the offer.

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  • 5 weeks later...

I highly recommend going to Fine Finish Low Pressure tips, for spraying things like cabinets.   You need the right tip guard that works with the FFLP tips.  The Rac IV tip guard, that comes with that setup that Chestnut linked to will not work with a FFLP tip.

You will spray a much better atomized fan, with half the pressure of the regular tips.  They work fantastically with Pro Classic.

https://www.amazon.com/Graco-RLP516-Finish-Pressure-Reversible/dp/B071CZQLVG/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=graco+fflp+tip+guard&qid=1608917600&sr=8-5

If you go with the LP tips, it's also worth getting a gauge for the system, so you don't spray a bunch of paint to find out how low of a pressure you can use.  The Titan, and Graco stuff is interchangable.  I have a Titan gauge on a Graco pump.  Set the pressure in that green section on the gauge, and you're most likely ready to go with a FFLP tip.  I have it between the pump, and the hose, so I don't have to change it when swapping hoses.

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-0580495-580495-Line-Assembly/dp/B073SH3N7Z/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=titan+airless+gauge&qid=1608917938&sr=8-1

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  • 3 weeks later...

Chiming in, as I had the same question, as I am shopping for my first sprayer. I would like to keep the cost down, while preventing "Buyers Remorse" and limiting my use later on. I appreciate the nuggets presented thus far, and limitations with using "Milk paint" caught my attention. That would be one of the intended purposes for the sprayer I buy. Additionally, I didn't see any mention of spraying as it pertains to using Shellac as my medium. Would someone be kind enough to expand on those topics? I question whether de-waxed Shellac is ever suitable in a sprayer simply due to the rapid dry time. While it isn't necessary [or even wise] to spray every job, it would be incredible to line up a row of furniture pieces with Shellac and get all coats completed like 1, 2, 3! That would be a complete game changer, but I am imagining there is about to be a snag which shatters that dream! Ha!

 

This is my first post after lurking for some time. I have enjoyed learning SO MANY things from you all already, and I want to say THANK YOU to all!

My eyes glazed over like Christmas morning as I rejuvenated my new 120yr old bedroom furniture set last week. After my purchase and inspection I believed that refinishing was my only hope; but like MAGIC, 3 coats of BLO-turp and it is WOW again. Have never seen quite a transformation; the seller had contemplated trashing it even though it was a [highly neglected] family heirloom stored in a barn.

Lori

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Welcome to the forum. I have the Fuji Mini-Mite like a lot of folks on here and using it to spray dewaxed shellac is a blessing, especially if you have multiple pieces. One or two pieces is not worth the cleanup. As far as using it for milk paint, I bet others will chime in. 

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I have the Fuji Pro2.  And have sprayed dewaxed shellac with mine also.   Shellac you will ned a cap and needle around 1.0 or 0.8.  I do wish I had bought just a little more then the Pro2 but it has served me well.

On 11/25/2020 at 5:02 AM, houstonwoodworker said:

And do I need to dilute it ?

Spraying paint take a good machine nothing less then a model like the Fuji Pro2.  Also it is important to have the proper cap and needle.  Something like Benjamin Moores Cabinet coat needs to be diluted about 10% with my Pro2.

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Regarding the ability to spray paint, make certain the experts or suppliers you as are aware of the type of paint, specifically. The term 'milk paint' was bandied about in earlier posts, but The Real Milk Paint company product, mixed from powder, is very different from something like General Finishes Milk Paint. As different as weak coffee and soft-serve ice cream.

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And rather than a uniform coating, the aesthetic I have seen most people reaching for with milk paint is an unevenly worn hand painted patina.  But maybe that's not what you're after.

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When I did my basement I used both a Greco airless and my Fuji MM3 here is my take. Tom is right Greco is way easier to spray latex right out of the can but overspray is much worse than HVLP. To spray paint through an HVLP you need a powerful machine and will still need to thin it. In my case I had to thin nearly 40% with my MM3 which meant many more coats. Ultimately I used the Graco for the walls and the MM3 for the doors and trim. The HVLP with properly thinned paint and an additive like Flotrol provided amazing doors and trim definitely better than the Greco. 

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