SawStop throatplate not even height


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I was cutting some thin strips today and one of them got caught half way through the cut at the point labeled 'B'. After a few choice words about almost messing up my workpiece, I did some investigating. As I had calibrated it when I got the saw, the red part of the throatplate all the way around (the label 'A' in the image, for example) was perfectly flush with the cast iron. However, at the back (black) where the workpiece got caught (label 'B'), the throatplate was below the cast iron (hence the workpiece getting caught). It seems as though the black part of the throat plate is actually a tiny bit lower than the red part, making it impossible to get that part level with the cast iron without the red part being above the table.

Does anyone else have this issue? It seems minor, but as I learned today can be quite annoying/dangerous.

Thanks,

David

throatplate_annotated.jpg

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The red part is laminated to the black part.  The black part is where the pawls would land (if I were using them).  I wonder if there was a wear issue?  I had to go and check just now . . . I recall that I had noticed this once upon a time but, I guess I had forgotten somewhere along the way. I have run a plate with a replaceable insert for some time so that could explain it.

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I reached out to Sawstop and this is what they told me:
"That recessed are is supposed to be slightly lower to accommodate the wear caused by the anti-kickback pawls.  Our earliest inserts did not have this recess, and the plastic being deformed by the pawls would snag material being fed through the saw.  If you do not plan on using the blade guard with the pawls, you can fill this area to make the insert a uniform thickness.  I have had customers use glue or double-sided tape to secure veneer to this area.  The other option is to get a dado insert and cut a slot for the riving knife to go through."

I don't want to buy another throat plate, so now the trick is to figure out what to use to veneer the black part. It seems like they make vinyl sheets for some kind of art something or rather in 3-10 mil thickness. I'm going to pick up some of those and give it a whirl.

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Nice job, I hope it works! I use a dado insert cut to zero clearance on my blade, with no riving knife installed when I cut thin strips. I started doing that after one of the strips got sucked through the gap, but  yes I agree the little dip on the standard insert is annoying.

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