Glue line visible on edge glue-up


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Hey everybody,

Im edge glueing a few boards together for table top, cherry, and in two separate glue-ups, a thin line of glue is visible at the joint. Im quite confident that the joint was done properly, I fussed over each for quite a while with my 5 1/2. I use Titebond 3 and parallel clamps every 6 inches or so. This has been something I have seen in the past, but it was just a one-off thing that didnt happen again. Now its happened twice. 

Any advice on why this may have happened would be much appreciated.

 

 

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The first thing that pops to mind is your glue.  TB3 is a darker glue and cherry a some what lighter wood especially fresh from the milling process and the glue line is going to be more visible.  I know 3 gives more open time and it may note be the problem but it might be a place to start your investigation.

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TB III isn't helping.

I'm not sure your jointing method. With a hand plane I'd joint the boards so each edge is getting jointed  at the same time. There is a slight trick to it, but doing it this way ensures that you get a flat joint every time. The only other technique is to make sure that you are indeed jointing a strait line.

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Thanks for the responses guys. Ill snap a pic and post in here as soon as I can. TB3 has been my go-to, but it is a good theory that it could be responsible. Ill pick up some TB2 for my next project.

18 hours ago, Chestnut said:

TB III isn't helping.

I'm not sure your jointing method. With a hand plane I'd joint the boards so each edge is getting jointed  at the same time. There is a slight trick to it, but doing it this way ensures that you get a flat joint every time. The only other technique is to make sure that you are indeed jointing a strait line.

Chestnut - I clamp each board together in a bookmatched orientation in my vise, and plane a hairline spring joint on the edges. Im getting better at it but i only in the last year or two been using this method. So I dont guarantee that its perfect, but I have some level of confidence that it is an adequate joint. 

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I agree that TB-III could be a bad choice.  I use a lot of darker woods and it is really the only glue I have purchased for many years.  I have a maple cutting board blank with a bad joint.  I re-sawed that section and re-glued.  The point being that you can see the dark glue at the fix and see the other joints as an example of TB-III on a light wood.

Anthony-1.jpg.f767648d1ca47782f67ac27dab4638f5.jpg

This may not be the best example as I am not trying to hide the joints with the figure.  However, with a good figure match I would think these joints would be fairly unnoticed.  Are your joints more prominent than these?  As stated, a pic would help.

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It might be the sanding. Need to start coarse enough. Use fine paper too quick you may leave glue behind. I belt sand my glue ups on a 45 degrees to the grain. It flattens better that way. Then I run the belt with the grain. Then RO. I use 100 belt then 100, 150, 220 and sometimes finer with RO. The question here is extra challenging as there is no picture. If a good answer is desired provide a good picture.

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1 hour ago, Coop said:

Just my opinion and most often it’s not well agreed on but I think a spring joint is highly overrated. I see no reason to intentionally create a void in the middle of two boards you hope to become one. The purpose of a jointer or good rip cuts on the ts is to get as smooth of an edge as possible to joint to a similarly cut board. Does your problematic visible glue line run the length of the joint? 

I think a spring joint can be a great trick if you don't have enough clamps. Otherwise I agree it's just adding extra stress or a void.

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Sorry Ive been so absent from this thread everyone, I really appreciate the responses. I had a setback with the panel glueups, they took a bit of a bump when I was working the edges and they let go. I am absolutely going to try TB2 and just joint the edges with my jointer. My jointer joints an edge that is a little high in the middle, so im not sure what to do about that. But ill deal with that when I get back on this project. This panel glue up project really has me scratching my head, I have struggled with it from basically the start. Ive done plenty of these in the past with out any problems. 

On 1/13/2021 at 10:52 AM, Woodenskye said:

Others have spoke about the glue, but my question is your clamping strategy.  You mention parallel clamps every 6 inches, but are you just putting clamps under the panel or alternating bottom and top?  Also if your really clamping really tight it could be an issue as well.

I do alternate my clamps top and bottom. And i had thought about possibly over-tightening them, so on the second panel I made certain I was tightening the clamps enough to close the joint, and not much more. Didnt change the outcome.

 

On 1/13/2021 at 5:56 PM, Coop said:

Just my opinion and most often it’s not well agreed on but I think a spring joint is highly overrated. I see no reason to intentionally create a void in the middle of two boards you hope to become one. The purpose of a jointer or good rip cuts on the ts is to get as smooth of an edge as possible to joint to a similarly cut board. Does your problematic visible glue line run the length of the joint? 

yes, It does run the full length. I guess at this point I do not rule out that I may have over done the spring joint. I didnt think so at first, but at this point, anything is possible.

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1 hour ago, woodbutcher said:

My jointer joints an edge that is a little high in the middle,

This sound like your outfield table is lower at the far end then it at the blade end.  There should be a section in your manual as to how to adjust this.

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14 minutes ago, Chet said:

This sound like your outfield table is lower at the far end then it at the blade end.  There should be a section in your manual as to how to adjust this.

Thank you Chet. Its a dovetail way jointer bed, I understand that it can be a real hassle to adjust. Ive heard guys have used feeler gauges to shim them, pop cans cut up, have you ever had to adjust one?

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2 hours ago, woodbutcher said:

Thank you Chet. Its a dovetail way jointer bed, I understand that it can be a real hassle to adjust. Ive heard guys have used feeler gauges to shim them, pop cans cut up, have you ever had to adjust one?

Yes, I had to do my old 6 inch jointer years back.  I didn't find it a hassle, it can be time consuming and I think that is were people get frustrated.  You just need to plan on spending some time.   I think if you are somewhat prepared its not that bad.  I had some shims ready to go, more then I needed but this made it easier because I didn't have to stop to cut more.

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