Router Table Adventure


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@derekcohen thanks for sharing! This is very timely for me as I need to make a replacement top/fence for my router table and really like your set up. I have read through your write up several times and and have been able to source most of the components but I am struggling to find the brackets that attach the fence to the table, any thoughts on where I might be able to source them in the US? What do you call them, that may be my issue as well. I searched for "UHMW square brackets" on the Banggood website but was unable to locate them.

Thanks!!

Paul

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No mitre gauge track!!?

I do think that a router table is a wonderful resource. However, a good router table does not need to be complex. In fact, I much prefer the KIS principle. My first router table was simply a piece of MDF with a hole for the bit. The fence was a 2x4 clamped alongside. It did good work. While this latest router table has many bells and whistles, it is still relatively simple compared to many.

This is my solution for a mitre track ...

There are two reasons to have a mitre track. The first is to attach a feather board. As I mentioned earlier, the JessEm guides do the task of holding the workpiece both down and against the fence. If the JessEm is not sufficient, I can still attach a feather board.

I was using a feather board on the table saw today to size drawer backs ...

FB1.jpg

The feather board can do double-duty at the router table. I drilled and tapped four bolt holes in line with the centre of the table ...

FB2.jpg
The feather board can slide back-and-forth when bolted this way. It can reach to the fence ...

FB3.jpg

The forwards holes are where a mitre track would go. This is as far back as it would extend if in a mitre track ...

FB4.jpg

However, the second set of holes allow for a wider range ...

FB5.jpg

The second reason for a mitre track is to use a mitre gauge to either rout out tenon cheeks, or joints such as cope-and-stick frames or box joints. There are alternate solutions for these.

The main issue I have with the mitre gauge method is that it requires that the fence be parallel to the mitre track. Fences are rarely so in my experience. The closest I came to this was when I had a router table in a previous table saw, and it shared the table saw fence (which tracked parallel to the blade). This is not the case now. The fence rides unequally in tracks, and one side is moved to fine adjust the setting. In short, a mitre track is useless.

To make a tenon cheek, or cope the end of a stretcher for a cope-and-stick joint, simply use a backing board against the fence ...

Tenonroutertable1.jpg

This will not make box joints. In reality, for myself, it is unlikely that I would ever make box joints. I just cannot see a need. The closest is a dovetail joint, and I prefer doing these with hand tools. Still, were I to make a box joint, the accessory of choice would be a linear fence. These are easy-enough to build ...

Routertable-Linear-Fence.jpg


Here is an excellent video on building a linear fence ....




Regards from Perth

Derek

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Hi Derek,

Nice write-up about a great feature to have incorporated into your K3 Winner chassis.

I have the same machine in the B3 Winner configuration which is a combination of the sliding table saw and a spindle moulder/shaper with its own 4hp motor. I have a 72" slider which is really nice in handling longer boards. Being able to use the sliding table in conjunction with the shaper is great.

Having the combination machine is a great space saver (while I do have room for the longer slider, I otherwise have extremely limited space). It would be fantastic to have separate machines for each function that always were available without setting up one function and breaking down another.

You will have the advantage of the saw table surrounding your router table "insert" and that will be very nice to accommodate work pieces. But I'll bet you will frequently run into the problem I always seem to have when I set up my shaper with its cutter head shroud and hold-downs taking up 2/3 of the "left" side of the table saw. No sooner do I have the shaper properly set as to height and depth of cut that I realize I need to use the saw! I can for some small work, but only in a very limited capacity. Frustrating! Either break down the shaper assembly or don't use the saw.

Don't be surprised if after getting the router all set, that you need to crosscut a long wide board whose offcut needs to pass over the area where the router sits! That's the way the universe works!

I love your work and your instructional posts.

Cheers,

Rich

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1 hour ago, pkinneb said:

Any one know where I can find some L brackets like this, or something that would function the same, in the US? I have been able to source everything else but those are proving to be difficult.

 

Look for "Fixed T-Slot Miter Track Stop". You can get them on Amazon and Banggood (as Derek apparently did) in a couple styles.

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