Looking for some inspiration.

[rainjer]

I need to make a side table for a angled corner of my living room. (drawing below) I want want it in a Arts & Craft / Stickley / Morris style. It will be used to hold stained glass lamp my mother-in-law made for us.

 

Does anyone have a suggestion of a table that would work in this spot? (Pictures would be helpful.)

 

I have also attached some picture of lamp and other chairs in the room. The chair is a family antique that is over 100 years old. We plan on having the cushions redone in leather this summer. The rocker is a modern mass produce chair that has sentimental value to my wife. It was he grandpa rocker before he passed.

[Coop]

I would build it from qtr. sawn white oak and have the top sized to the dimensions shown. Since you will have limited space in the front, I see no reason to add a shelf below. Due to the configuration, I’m at a loss as to the qty. of legs nor their location if you used less than six which is an overkill. 

[treeslayer]

Yeah I’m with @Coop QSWO would be the way I would go, I don’t see how you could use any less than 6 legs but that’s not a big deal, simple apron, Stickley-Mission style would compliment the rest of the room

[Bmac]

I'd be looking into something that is oval, that would fit in the space well.

Here's a link that could give you a good starting point;

https://www.steinhafels.com/merchandise/product/details/arts-and-crafts-end-table-849184130

I really like this design, I think this could be made into an oval;

 

[Bmac]

Or think outside the box with a top shaped like this;

Maybe 4 legs in the "corners"? Not sure what I'd do below but the shape of this top could end up as a different and cool table.

[Chet]

Even a Demi Lune design could work.

[rainjer]

Here is something I drew up quickly in Sketch-up. My wife likes the shape because we can us it in the angled corner or rotate it 180 degrees and it can be used in a 90 degree corner. This is just me spit-balling so by no means will I be offended by any critiques on it...  

[Coop]

So the 29 9/32 is open to the backside, allowing for the shelf? Looks like a fine solution. Keep us posted with a journal.

[rainjer]

The 29-9/16" just happens to be the distance you get if you cut a 45 degree cut on a 32"X32" square 12" for the corner...

My wife like the shelf. When it is on the angled wall it would not be very accessible bit if we us it in a 90 degree corner it would be. 

The square legs are 2"X2". The 2 angled legs are 2" faces so they don both end up 2" deep but I think it would matter.

BTW, this will be my first project using my Festool Domino. I will be using 1/4 sawn white oak for the wood.

One question which direction would you run the grain on the top and shelf?

[wtnhighlander]

I would orient the grain across the longest diagonal of the top. I think grain across the shorter dimension of a table top looks awkward, usually.

I might also consider a simpler base, with fewer legs and more overhang of the top, but that wouldn't really fit with the Stickly / Arts & Crafts theme.

[rainjer]

A couple more designs I came up with. The slat color is just to make them more visible.

[Bmac]

The above designs are looking good and have the desired Arts and Crafts look. Also the thought process of a table you can use in this angled corner or you can turn around and use in a square corner is a good one. 

What I think could be a problem with your design though is that sharp corner you are going to have sticking out between the sofas. I think if you put that shape into the first picture of the space you showed you would see what I mean. If I'm understanding the dimensions correctly, you are going to have two 32" sides coming to a point, I think that will jut out quite a ways into the room between the two sofas. 

Now, if you want that same shape, which is nice, then make the two sides that go into the front corner about the same length as the sides of the sofas and move the sofas closer together, then the point will not stick out. Or if you can't move the sofas then look again at my hand drawn sketch, that was why I put the radius on the outer "corner" of the table. Now instead of a radius you could just cut off the corner and make that cut off edge parallel to the back angled edge. It would likely be much shorter in length to the back edge, and if it's not too long it probably still could be flipped around and not look too bad in a 90 degree corner. 

Just my 2 cents

 

[Chestnut]

I like the idea of the slats but installing them loses the flexibility of using the table in other orientations. I like the lower apron design on your second batch of drawings over the corbel design of the first. Something about the first design leaves the lower shelf feeling too light visually which just doesn't meet the A&C design in my mind.

Another thought is how the bottom shelf is goign to be constructed and from what. It seems like it could become trapped between legs and possible cause a wood movement issue. Plywood may be a best use cause there with shop sawn veneer.  There are probably ways to make it work with solid wood but i don't have a good enough mental grasp on the design.

I agree with Bmac's above comment of the sharp corner protruding out. I don't have any different suggestions other than the resulting hexagon table could be quite interesting.

[drzaius]

10 hours ago, rainjer said:

 

 

Where the inlay intersects at the 45* corners, I think it would look better if you had equal width squares cut at 45* where they meet. Sorta looks like an "oops" the way it's drawn

[rainjer]

6 hours ago, drzaius said:

Where the inlay intersects at the 45* corners, I think it would look better if you had equal width squares cut at 45* where they meet. Sorta looks like an "oops" the way it's drawn

This is not an inlay it is the bottom view it the table Those at the legs. I made the face 2" wide on both surfaces. Here is a different angle.

 

[rainjer]

@Bmac The point would be behind the the couches.

 

[rainjer]

@Chestnut The way it drawn I have dado on each leg to have the shelf float in. I was thing of adding cleats along the rails for it to sit on. I found a source for Quatersawn White Oak 9 ply 3/4" plywood @ $150 a sheet. I was thinking of using that for the shelf and top and adding a 1-1/2" wide solid edge band. I don't have the tools to make my own veneer.

[Bmac]

4 minutes ago, rainjer said:

@Bmac The point would be behind the the couches.

 

Well that would work well then. I was using your initial drawing of the space and it must not be drawn to scale, the sides of the couches in that diagram are shorter than the angled back wall section which you have labeled as 30" long. The sketch up of the table had the sides of the end table at 32", that's why I was concerned about the corner sticking out.

The above pic also has the couches much closer together, which makes your design a perfect fit for that spot, as long as the width of the couches correspond to the length of the table sides. Also in the pics above the sides of the couches are longer than the 30" section of the angled back wall, at a different scale than the original diagram.

Now with the above pic, I'm not sure I'd do a lower shelf on the table since it won't be accessible.

[VizslaDad]

6 minutes ago, Bmac said:

Well that would work well then. I was using your initial drawing of the space and it must not be drawn to scale, the sides of the couches in that diagram are shorter than the angled back wall section which you have labeled as 30" long. The sketch up of the table had the sides of the end table at 32", that's why I was concerned about the corner sticking out.

The above pic also has the couches much closer together, which makes your design a perfect fit for that spot, as long as the width of the couches correspond to the length of the table sides. Also in the pics above the sides of the couches are longer than the 30" section of the angled back wall, at a different scale than the original diagram.

Now with the above pic, I'm not sure I'd do a lower shelf on the table since it won't be accessible.

A shelf doesn't necessarily need to be accessible if it's relatively visible. Decor items could go on it. 

[rainjer]

@Bmac - I think if you turn it 180, the shelf make it look better. 

[rainjer]

I think my next step is I am going to cut a full size 32"X32" piece of cardboard and play with the top size and shape. I am also playing with radiuses on the corners. Started with 1/2" I may go larger or smaller.

[drzaius]

4 hours ago, rainjer said:

This is not an inlay it is the bottom view it the table Those at the legs. I made the face 2" wide on both surfaces. Here is a different angle.

Sorry, forgot I was using my x-ray vision

[rainjer]

I think I have a design I like. I reduced the top to 30"X30" but made the short side longer (15"). I like the proportions better. I also added a decorative slat design in on 4 sides. I put a 3/16" radius on the corners of the top just to soften the corners. I may use 3/4" QSWO plywood for the top and shelf. If so I would put a 1" thick solid oak oak banding on the edge. 

 

 

[Bmac]

That should turn out to be a very nice piece, I'm not an A & C guy, but that has a classic and attractive A & C look too it. Solid joinery should apply well to this design and you'll have some nice options for finish.

Hope to see this turn into a journal!

[Chestnut]

21 hours ago, rainjer said:

I don't have the tools to make my own veneer.

I have faith that if you have a table saw you could make it work   $150 for a sheet of 3/4" QS oak ply is about what I'd expect. When i looked for just regular cherry panels they were around $125.

If you can provide enough space for expansion and contraction solid wood is possible I just wanted to make sure that wood movement wasn't missed. Espically with a little bit different leg orientation than a typical square table.