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Looks great so far. Love watching people with more experience than I have design and build as they go. I’m hopeful my skill level will allow me that flexibility/creativity someday. Never would have thought to use a torsion box to give the top more stability without adding significant weight. Very clever and I’ll have to remember that.

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28 minutes ago, Jonathan McCully said:

Looks great so far. Love watching people with more experience than I have design and build as they go. I’m hopeful my skill level will allow me that flexibility/creativity someday. Never would have thought to use a torsion box to give the top more stability without adding significant weight. Very clever and I’ll have to remember that.

I could have reduced the weight a lot more by doing more ribs in the middle and doing 1/4" for both the top and bottom or even 1/2" for the top. I used 3/4" because i had the plywood on hand and it's cheaper to use what you have then to buy new. The top weighs 35 lbs tops so moving it around and getting it into place was nice and easy.

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I love secret rooms and would love to do that. There unfortunately just isn't room for that to work out here. The door into the bedroom/office is right there and the whole space would be very cramped. Also unfortunately the best place for a secret room is in my shop. There is a section of the basement that is difficult to comprehend why it's there as it takes some acute spatial awareness to put things together. It'd be the perfect place for a secret room. Most people would just assume that the basement ended. By my shop isn't getting converted into living space any time soon.

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So the organizer isn't next. The next part is the mirror and lighting. The lights I went with are from American Greenlight. The make rigid strip lights that have a diffuser and can be paired with a dimable ballast. I've used these lights in the past and they have excellent color rendition which is also helpful.

I did some tests to see how best to put the lights. My main concern was they would be to bright to direct forward. With the dimmer switch it's very easy to get a good brightness without causing eye strain. I did put a makeshift mirror in place to test this better. The lamp holder in this picture was only temporary, I have put an outlet there now.

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To make the frame instead of trying to perfectly calibrate the miter gauge to 45 degrees, i set up 2 of my miter gauges on opposite sides of the blade. I then put a square between them so the angle is exactly 90 degrees. This worked really well the miters came out perfect. I prefer cutting with the angles pointed in this direction as well. Cutting this way puts the point of the miter along the miter gauge fence so stop blockers are easier and more accurate to reference.

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Frame is simple and walnut. I angled the face of the frame in 15 degrees just to add some depth but also the lights will be mounted on the frame and angling them in reduces shadows towards the middle of the mirror.

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Next was my attempt at cutting  a mirror to fit. I had a size in mind to fit the space which i couldn't buy off the shelf. I also messed up and made the frame an inch narrower than I intended. Cutting the mirror didn't go well at all. I did all of the steps (cleaned the mirror well, scored the back with a razor blade, marked the front with the cutting wheel, snapped in 1 fluid sharp motion) and the mirror broke strait through the middle. I was a bit frustrated and needed to break it down further to fit in the recycling can so i threw a hammer at it. There wasn't any salvageable sized pieces and I had little faith i could get clean cuts anyway.

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I'm going to just have a local shop cut me a mirror.

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32 minutes ago, pkinneb said:

I've cut a fair amount of glass without issue but never a mirror is it the mirror film that causes the problem? 

I don't think so because when it broke, the film on the back didn't tear. I also scored the film on the back with a razor blade prior to trying to cut the mirror. How thick is the glass you've cut? I don't know if thickness or temper plays into things but the glass was a full 1/4" thick.

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2 hours ago, Chestnut said:

o make the frame instead of trying to perfectly calibrate the miter gauge to 45 degrees, i set up 2 of my miter gauges on opposite sides of the blade. I then put a square between them so the angle is exactly 90 degrees

When I built my mitre sled for the table saw 90 was the most important. It is close to 45 plus or minus a tiny. What matters is the 90. works great.

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Got the quote for a custom cut mirror, $88. Not bad considering the mirror I broke was $50. I knew i should have just gone to the professional to begin with.

1 hour ago, curlyoak said:

When I built my mitre sled for the table saw 90 was the most important. It is close to 45 plus or minus a tiny. What matters is the 90. works great.

I've thought about making  a sled like that but now that I have 3 miter gauges it's just as easy to square between 2 of them. This way I don't have to store a unitasker sled.

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5 hours ago, Chestnut said:

I don't think so because when it broke, the film on the back didn't tear. I also scored the film on the back with a razor blade prior to trying to cut the mirror. How thick is the glass you've cut? I don't know if thickness or temper plays into things but the glass was a full 1/4" thick.

Ahh good point! I don't think I have cut anything over 3/32nds most stain glass and picture frame glass is closer to 1/8"

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Well done Nut! I bet you will find like me, that you will never use the dimmer switch. I put one on a can light over our guest bathroom tub/shower and it has never been used. I thought that my wife would use it while soaking, kind of like candles, but not the case. I also had the contractor of our remodel install them for our 4 can lights in the bedroom and the patio . We’ll see how that works. 

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