Mick S Posted March 6, 2021 Report Share Posted March 6, 2021 1 hour ago, pkinneb said: Mick how do you like the Micro adjust? I have been seriously considering swapping mine for this one in my table redu project I haven't found a lift with a better one. The tradeoff is it's harder to get close with the gross adjustment before the final micro-adjust. Takes a bit of getting used to. The micro-adjust is spot on - you can really dial in to 1/1000" before locking. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted March 6, 2021 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 6, 2021 21 hours ago, Coop said: I just realized how Neanderthal I must be. My router lift is my left hand and the lock is done with my right! After watching a couple of videos, do all lifts require offset wrenches to install and remove the bits or do some lift the collet and shaft above the table. With the router and collet in the vertical position, how do you keep the bit from bottoming out while tightening the collet? The ability of the lift to raise the collet high enough to reach with regular wrenches is a limitation of the router, not the lift. If the collet is too stubby, with the motor housing nearly touching the underside of the plate the collet will still not be adequately exposed. Bent wrenches are a solution to this. Freud routers had very long arbor/collet setups but these are no longer made. My Milwaukee 5625, like the PC 7518, has a bit of a stubby arbor/collet/nut setup. Still very reachable on the Woodpecker PRL (v1) model which was designed for the 5625. Your router of choice will control more than your wrench requirements. If you are using a 2-1/4 HP or smaller, one of the open frame lifts will do you fine. This will save you some money. If you go with one of the larger router motors I would recommend a milled billet type of carriage as seen in the Rockler Pro or Woodpecker. Thick layered plates like the Saw Stop, Kreg and Jess-Em can also handle these larger routers. In the end the parts are all links in a chain. A massive lift with a wimpy router or a locomotive motor in a skeletal framed lift will probably both disappoint. When shopping you will benefit from shopping your motor/lift as a unit. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted March 6, 2021 Report Share Posted March 6, 2021 ...although I would like to see that router with the locomotive motor... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 1 hour ago, Mark J said: ...although I would like to see that router with the locomotive motor... I forget where I first heard that term . . . Here's some 1-3/4 and 2-1/4 HP Milwaukees with a 3-1/2 HP (as they call them) in the lift. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick S Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 7 hours ago, gee-dub said: If the collet is too stubby, with the motor housing nearly touching the underside of the plate the collet will still not be adequately exposed. Bent wrenches are a solution to this. I have that issue with both my PC 7518 in the Woodpeckers lift and the Bosch router in my PantoRouter. The offset wrenches from Rockler make it easy. https://www.rockler.com/rockler-offset-router-collet-wrenches 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elrodk Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Hello folks, I have the Rockler Pro Lift and can verify a few things. First, you can get the Pro lift with the smaller Rockler/Bench Dog size plate or with a full size plate. I purchased the standard size but built my own table. With the standard size I can drop it in a cast iron wing or table if I ever want. There are adapter sleeves available to fit smaller router motors. I used one of these to mount my Hitachi MV12. The sleeves are hard plastic and well made. The quick gear is the feature that sold me. It's a time saver for bit changes and height adjustments. Yes, I can change the bits above the table with the factory wrenches. The fine adjustment let's you dial in the exact height. Rockler describes it as self locking. I haven't had any creep issues. The manual shows an allen screw adjustment for tension. It comes with a set of allen wrenches needed for installation and adjustments. I bought a complete set of the snap rings because it was cheaper than buying the 3 I thought I needed. I read somewhere who makes the lift for Rockler but can't locate it now. I believe it was either Infinity or Jessum but not sure. Whichever it was, shares the same lift mechanism in their better lifts. The difference being the Rockler two speed gearbox and the snap rings for the bit opening. So far I'm very happy with this lift. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 8, 2021 Report Share Posted March 8, 2021 So only the motor fits into the lift and not the entire fixed based router? I’m slow at catching on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted March 8, 2021 Report Share Posted March 8, 2021 7 hours ago, Coop said: So only the motor fits into the lift and not the entire fixed based router? I’m slow at catching on! That’s correct Coop just the motor, I think all the big names sell just the bare motor, no base, we’re not slow, we’re pacing ourselves 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted March 8, 2021 Report Share Posted March 8, 2021 My first and only lift. The speed and accuracy is easy. An eighth of a turn on the crank is 1/64 inch with increment dividing 1/64 8 times. The lock is sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minnesota Steve Posted March 8, 2021 Report Share Posted March 8, 2021 Chestnut, I think you'll be happy with the Rocker SL Router Lift. I've had my Rockler lift for about 5 years now. Like treeslayer I did have some problems with it being loose, but I tightened it up and it's been ok since. It's mostly a problem if you do something where you get a lot of chatter with the bit. I've taken to sticking a piece of masking tape down on the plate and making a mark of where 0 is, just to confirm, especially if I'm doing a lot of parts. Mine has the plastic inserts, and I think the aluminum inserts is an improvement. Yes they cost more, but I think that offers more precision. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jussi Posted March 9, 2021 Report Share Posted March 9, 2021 Here are my 2 RTs. I really like the side handle on the Jessem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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