Attaching foam insulation board to plywood


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Building a shroud for my 60 gallon air compressor that I just refurbished to help with noise as there is an adjacent apartment that borders my wood shop.  Building it out of T-111, will have an open top for heat.  Really just 3 sides.  8' tall.  I plan on putting foam board insulation, the thinner stuff on the inside.  How would you guys attach that to the T1-11?  Liquid nails, wood glue, spray adhesive?

Appreciate some ideas.

 

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I did something like this a few years ago, and I found an adhesive that was specifically for foamboard - I think it was a Loctite product.  Got it at either HD or Ace Hardware.  Applied like construction adhesive, with a caulking gun.  Not terribly expensive, as I recall.  Worked fine.

I believe some adhesives will dissolve foamboard.

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So the answer to your question is Loctite PL300 is used to glue  foam.

As far as sound dampening... XPS insulation board probably won't do anything for sound.   Polystyrene foam might work better.

If you want something readily and cheaply available, you might consider drop ceiling tiles as they have acoustical properties to dampen sound reflections.

 

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26 minutes ago, Minnesota Steve said:

So the answer to your question is Loctite PL300 is used to glue  foam.

As far as sound dampening... XPS insulation board probably won't do anything for sound.   Polystyrene foam might work better.

If you want something readily and cheaply available, you might consider drop ceiling tiles as they have acoustical properties to dampen sound reflections.

 

I agree with Steve. Another alternative is just a double layer of 5/8" drywall, mass will do a lot to deaden sound.

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4 hours ago, Tpt life said:

Source? I have buried enough noise makers in foam coolers to say I disagree. 

I should add, very little compared to other methods of sound attenuation. Check out some of the websites on the subject that publish testing data on sound transmission ratings of various materials and wall assemblies. Foam is way down the list, especially closed cell foams. In fact, in some wall assemblies, closed cell foam can be no better than and empty cavity.

Any kind of barrier, even draperies will cut down sound transmission. Foam board is a terribly expensive way to try to block sound.

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It’s not. Not in any way. How you apply it is the key to success. Spray foam receives a bad report when single studs bridge interior and exterior sheathing. The transfer happens through the framing. Sheet with foam under the drywall, and the poor interface between the foam and gypsum means less transfer. Use a product like ZIP-R, and the foam between stud and exterior sheathing means great reduction in transfer. This becomes completely a “how you apply it” discussion. Read the studies, and you find the strengths and weaknesses. 

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5 hours ago, Mark J said:

You have to admit it's counter intuitive.  I wonder why foam is so poor at attenuating sound?

Sound attenuation is dependent on 3 things; mass, absorption, and isolation. Because of its structural rigidity it transmits sound relatively well. It has very little mass, so it's not much good there. Isolation can actually be hampered by foam, particularly sprayed in closed cell. It will be closely coupled with one or both surfaces of the wall. If foam board is carefully installed, it at least will not couple the 2 sides. 

Foam will absorb some sound, but one needs to consider the cost of it vs other, much better materials. You can pay for a lot of 5/8 drywall & Greenglue for what it would cost to fill the wall with foam. 

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