New Shop Thread


gee-dub
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On 8/24/2021 at 11:52 AM, curlyoak said:

When the duct work is done, are tools next?

90% of the duct work.  then the electrical drops for the milling area and the tablesaw / router table. Then the machines ;-)

We are suffering a work stoppage due to having to take care of something unrelated for a while.  It is hard to stop when I am at this stage but I'll be back.

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3 hours ago, Coop said:

I don’t recall what your ceiling height is but sure it’s more than 8’. Yours and @Chestnut

 You answered @Jonathan McCully with advise regarding his new shop. Would you advise Jonathan to go to 9’-10’ ceiling height. I would almost rather have a higher ceiling in my shop than extra sq. ft.. Well, almost.

I was thinking 12' in mine, but that may be a bit overkill. 10' seems to be sufficient for sure. Definitely appreciate you guys leading me to this thread. I've gotten a number of good ideas from @gee-dub

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Before moving into a small outbuilding to gain the advantage of some climate control, I worked in my garage, with 12' ceiling height. Nice to me able to swing long boards around without hitting anything, but 10' is more than enough. I do still keep my lumber stored in the garage, vertically. The extra height really helps in that regard.

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7 hours ago, Jonathan McCully said:

I was thinking 12' in mine, but that may be a bit overkill. 10' seems to be sufficient for sure. Definitely appreciate you guys leading me to this thread. I've gotten a number of good ideas from @gee-dub

I have 9 foot in my shop and 12 foot in my garage. 12 foot is too high and 9 foot seems perfect. 10 foot could be good as well but I'm not sure how the cost would pan out there. You'd have to run some calcs. The other oddball about going anything more than 8 foot is if you do any plywood walls (T1-11 or otherwise) you'll have a seam no matter what (unless you fidn 10 foot sheets). Don't go 8 foot. That said you'll bump you lights no matter how tall the ceiling is. I hit the lights in my garage with 12 foot ceilings.

The reason I'd consider lower rather than higher is 3 reasons, cost, hvac, & access. With taller ceilings you'll have a lot more heat up high which will impact your heating and cooling (well in your case cooling). You don't realize how hard it is to access storage at 12 feet until your trying to lug some thing heavy to the top rung of a 6 foot ladder. Hence why I've made some storage on pulley systems in my garage.

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On 9/10/2021 at 6:03 AM, Chestnut said:

The other oddball about going anything more than 8 foot is if you do any plywood walls (T1-11 or otherwise) you'll have a seam no matter what

I have thought about this some with my shop with walls that are 8' 10" and some that are higher because of the roof design.  If I were to put T1-11 I think I would do it from the top down leaving the lowest part as is.  Most of the reasons of using ply or T1-11 don't exist at floor level.  And yes, no matter where or how high you put them, you will figure out a way to hit the lights.:P

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On 9/9/2021 at 6:36 PM, wtnhighlander said:

Love the DC 'tree' idea, @gee-dub! Are you running conduit along side for the electical, or hanging drops from a receptacle in the ceiling?

There will be a combination of liquid-tight and EMT.  The flexible liquid-tight will be of a length to allow for some adjustment if I want to move things a bit.  Here is an early version.

811510493_NewShop(372).jpg.40f4586edb87b42301010f8b8f098a3b.jpg

On 9/9/2021 at 6:57 PM, Coop said:

I don’t recall what your ceiling height is but sure it’s more than 8’. Yours and @Chestnut

 You answered @Jonathan McCully with advise regarding his new shop. Would you advise Jonathan to go to 9’-10’ ceiling height. I would almost rather have a higher ceiling in my shop than extra sq. ft.. Well, almost.

The 10' ceiling was a 'gotta-have' on this build.  There are some things that are mostly wrong for me (like a 6" jointer) and an 8' ceiling was mostly wrong for me.  The 10' is mostly right.  I did consider a boxed in open section at one end of the building at the peak of the roof line in order to store long stock vertically.  This is a good example of something that would be cool but not useful enough when weighed against the structure to support it and the permanence of that decision.  The 10' ceiling decision has proved out for me.  Ducting and lighting do not interfere with each other and being used to an 8' ceiling, I have yet to smack anything :).

On 9/9/2021 at 10:44 PM, Jonathan McCully said:

Definitely appreciate you guys leading me to this thread. I've gotten a number of good ideas from @gee-dub

Glad to hear it.  That's what the forums are for; I steal ideas from someone and then you get them from me and someone else will benefit from you :)

On 9/10/2021 at 5:51 AM, Tom King said:

Nice thinking on the tree!  

I like that anchor design.  What is the name of it?  couldn't read it clearly.

For future reference, there are flat ended caps.  I've always heard them called "test caps".

https://www.amazon.com/NDS-6P06-Solvent-Fitting-6-Inch/dp/B00L4AO506/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B00L4AO506&psc=1

Thanks Tom.  I found a couple flat end caps and may swap them out.  Here's the sinkers.  Just an FYI, the directions say to put the sinkers in the hole and tap with a hammer.  I found that threading a fastener into the sinker and using it as a handle to place the sinker was more successful.

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I believe with your new shop your productivity will be more. Up to a point, the more space the more productive you are. 

By adding tools does this mean the build is complete not counting setting up the shop. If so, how did you do on budget? My guess is you went over due to escalating material prices. And sometimes an upgrade gets in your face and you cant say no.

Your new shop should keep a grin on your face for a long time. I think you are approaching the ultimate woodworking shop. Well done!!!

Most all of us will be jealous.

What is the tool on the left near the door?

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Thanks for the info on the anchors.  Saved to favorites folder.

I mainly use Greenlee ones that set flush with the surface, with a special Greenlee tool, but sometimes it would be better to set them deeper.  The ones you used would be ideal for those situations.  The good things about the ones set flush with the surface are that the hole does not have to be an exact depth, and you know what fastener lengths you need to start with. 

I never got on good with the pound in type.  The hole needed to be the exactly correct depth, and you needed an assortment of different length machine screws to get a job finished.

Using a machine screw for the insertion tool makes perfect sense.  With something thin, to hold it at the depth you want, the exact desired depth should be easy to get.  I was first thinking about using a piece of foam under it, but the machine screw to start it is better.

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