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So I was lucky enough that a guy at work has a domino and he let me use it to make the joints on the project. I did a couple of test fits with it and seemed to be set up pretty good. I watched a couple of videos online and and tried the test that used some scrap parts to show that when I made a connection the end of the scrap parts stayed flush showing the alignment sight was correct. As you can see from the two photos below, one joint looks right on but the second one looks slightly off. The parts all went together ok and at first look they appear to be level. I was not sure if that is just something that comes with time, practice, and use with the tool. Just looking to see if folks have had any similar experiences or what they have done to improve their jointing with dominos?  Practice? Tuning tool? Other?  For folks that do not have a domino any suggestions on a different type of joint that I could use for a project like this?  Maybe I am just too tough on my work as still trying to lead and hone all of my skills?  

6A8E7805-C221-4EDA-AADD-B508F24D52EC.jpeg

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I usually make the mortise wider than the floating tenon and then adjust the part into alignment with center lines or edge lines. A tap with a mallet during glue up is usually all that's needed. The rounded portions of the domino mortise are end grain and add little if any strength to the joinery.

If the joinery is rotating in the mortise and pressing against the narrow sides of the mortise the joint has already failed.

 

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On 4/23/2021 at 7:33 AM, Chestnut said:

I usually make the mortise wider than the floating tenon and then adjust the part into alignment with center lines or edge lines. A tap with a mallet during glue up is usually all that's needed. The rounded portions of the domino mortise are end grain and add little if any strength to the joinery.

If the joinery is rotating in the mortise and pressing against the narrow sides of the mortise the joint has already failed.

 

Any suggestions on the radius of the round over bit to smooth the edge or is that just really preference? The parts are 3/4-inch and I was going to round both sides of the part. Would a 1/4 round over be too much on both sides and an 1/8 would be better?  

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1 hour ago, Coop said:

On 3/4” wood, I would just do the slight 1/8” round over. 

Thanks!  I am going to have some scrap left over once I can get this project done and I was wanting to try and make just a simple box. No real sizes in mind and did not want to make any complicated joints if possible for the first adventure with box making. Any suggestions on a good place to find some plans to just make a basic box?  

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Looking great!
 

I don’t recall if this was in the plans, but on mine I took a forstner bit just bigger than the knockdown bolt’s head and made a recess approximately the depth of the head so it doesn’t stick out. That way when the kids push it around they aren’t scraping the head along the refrigerator or something like that.

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2 hours ago, JohnG said:

Looking great!
 

I don’t recall if this was in the plans, but on mine I took a forstner bit just bigger than the knockdown bolt’s head and made a recess approximately the depth of the head so it doesn’t stick out. That way when the kids push it around they aren’t scraping the head along the refrigerator or something like that.

That’s a great idea!  I will have to see if I have the right sized bit and add that little recess. 

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Hard to tell from the pic, but if you haven’t already, you’ll want to round over all the edges of the platform. 

I’ve personally never used the safety dowels. I made my platform to a snug fit so there’s really no chance of it shifting.

Looks great!

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