Outdoor Sideboard/Grill Table Suggestions for a Newbie


TomInNC

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Thanks. The legs will be made out of laminated 8/4, and I am guessing the final dimensions would be somewhere in the 3.75x3.75 range. The stretcher/apron will be made of 8/4.  I was thinking that there are 2 ways to get the stretcher/apron proud of the leg in this case. (1) Using the final dimensions for the stretcher/apron, locate the mortise on the leg so that, with a centered tenon, the stretcher/apron are proud of the leg by 1/16 or so. This would require the mortise to be closer to the edge of the leg. (2) Instead of centering the tenon, make the tenon look like a rabbet on the end of the apron/stretcher (is there a name for this?). This would allow for the mortise to be closer to the center of the leg. 

Do you see any advantages to one of these approaches over the other?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I picked up the hardware for the pull out trash can last week and started working on finalizing the part dimensions. I am aiming to have the final height of the table at 36-37 inches.

My initial plan was to use build the frame using 8/4 lumber cut at 4 inches in width with the bottom stretcher 3 inches from the bottom of the leg. Somehow when I put these plans together I forgot to account for the fact that the 4 inch casters I would like to use are going to add 5 inches in height to the table. 

The trash can will require about 20 inches of vertical clearance between the top and the bottom rails, so I need to rethink my plan (or deal with a very high table). Would reducing the size of the stretchers from 4 to 3 inches compromise the strength of the frame? Also, Is there any downside to making the bottom rail flush or nearly flush with the bottom of the leg?

As I mentioned above, I am going to make the cabinet part of the stand using frame and panel. Just to buy myself some wiggle room for error, I was thinking that instead of installing the panel directly in the frame, I would attach ledger strips to the inside of the legs and rails, and then mount a framed panel to the ledger strips. If I go this route, should I just use screws to attach the framed panel, or is it okay to use glue here because the frame is small and will have limited movement?

 

 

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If you have casters mounting the rail closer to the leg will reduce the height and get you the desired outcome.

Another option would be to mount the castes underneath and inside the rails so that you can't see the caster. If the size of the cart is small tipping might be an issues so take that into consideration. This does have benefits outside the obvious height. The casters being inboard would be less likely to hit objects if the cart is maneuvered close to them say chair legs or deck railing posts etc.

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  • 7 months later...

Thanks. You probably designed half of it at this point based on all your suggestions!

One thing that sort of drove me insane during the whole build is that the grain in the Sapele, while straight, isn't perfectly straight. So when I would look at joints it constantly looked like something was out of square. 

 

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On 6/30/2023 at 10:39 PM, Coop said:

Very well done! 
The door panel, the way you didn’t carry the center stile all the way up is kinda unique. I like that! 

Thanks. I was watching some TV show, and all of the interior doors in the house were setup like that. So I just borrowed from whoever made those doors.

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