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Some months back I took delivery of a new PantoRouter and have been getting familiar with it. My 1st project after setup was a Jay Bates cart build for the new tool which was basically 2x4s milled and the mortise and tenon construction which went very well. I then built the two drawers using the box joint method on the PR and they turned out very well. My next time using it was to create the drawer for a hutch-bookcase project for my wife and I tried the dovetail process on the PR which was far easier then I expected after a trial run on some scrap the same size. Two adjustments and I was off making through dovetails.

Now I think I may have hit a limitation on the next project which is a cherry blanket chest for my oldest granddaughter that is graduating top of her class and headed to ODU this fall. The carcass is 19-1/2" tall without the base and the limit for the PR seems to be 18" . So I'm trying to think this out and determine the best possible course of action to make these through dovetails using the PR.

As I have a Domino jointer I thought that I'd mill the cherry and have it glue ready, mark the orientation of the 2 pieces that will make the sides and front/back, then cut my tails and pins. Then glue them together and after the glue dries run them through my 19/38 sander for a light sanding should there be any offset to the 2 boards making up the pieces. There really shouldn't be if the Domino is registered properly to the pieces and the orientation is maintained, right?

So the question is, am I approaching this properly or do I need to come up with a better plan? Anything wider than the 18" table of the PR will not have the use of the fence and difficult to clamp on the table. Making two joining parts is the only way I see it happening short of reducing the size of the panels by 1-1/2" and I don't see that as reasonable. Any suggestions?
 
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Can the machine be used with an auxiliary table & fence? Sorry, I don't own one, but expanding the table surface seems like a reasonable option, assuming the template holde can be raised by the thickness of the aux. table.

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@sreilly I think your method should work just fine. That's probably how i would approach it.

Another option would be to cut to the max width of the standard table width, then slide the full 19 1/12" piece over and use the "first cut" position of the bit indexing against the last tail piece that was cut.

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Thanks guys. This is a new machine to me so wrapping my head around keeping ti securely clamped and straight is the more complex problem.

I had thought about trying to extend the table by making an auxiliary table extension that could somehow fit around the table much like a router table has the table around the lift plate but that's as far as the thought has gotten. As I type this it's kind of forming an image in the shape of a U with the open end where the table closest to the router is open.

 

That's going to take more thought and for now I'll try the 2 piece approach I think.

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I may have misunderstood your issue. I thought you were asking about the limits of travel being the reason for doing the job in two parts, not supporting the work while machining.

I've mortised large entry doors on mine by simply using a roller stand to support the work. It's rare that I need to do anything that large on the PR, so I don't see the need to build any kind of permanent table around it. It would be in the way most of the time, IMO.

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Agreed Mick. You are correct, the limit is the limits of travel as you state.

My thought was more width then length but dropping it in like some do a contractors saw would help support the wood. While the idea doesn't expand the useful range of the PR due to the fence being static (same size, position), having a wider table allows larger (wider boards) to be secured and the fence could be extended as well if you make the slot in the extended side table parts. Again, just thinking out loud. You would still be limited to the area of wood that can be worked on but you could start at the center and the work the cuts from there until you reach the limit,  then register off the cuts already made moving, and securing the wood.

The only reason to extend the length of the table would be to create a channel for the square to travel. Actually I'd likely use a T-track but widening the table would allow the wood to be clamped more securely and be supported. Clamping it being the primary concern. The range of cuts would not change and you would have to register off the cuts that are possible after you start. It's all still just a thought and may not even be worth the effort.

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Just going through some old photos and came across this. It reminded me of your question about machining in sections, then glueing those up.

This is not a glue up, but 4 separately machined PR box
joint sections that would become 4 drawers. I could easily see them being glued up for a single box.

IMG_1416.thumb.jpeg.e18a1ca6b79ded2ab70f744687d3dd2f.jpeg

 

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Thanks , yes I think that could work and the Domino if registered on the same side should match almost if not perfectly. I'm going to take some poplar I have laying around and simulate the exercise to see what the results are. Thanks for the post.

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