Revelation on cutting in room trim

Tom King

Recommended Posts

Yes, beaded board plywood, but better stuff than the box stores keep in stock.  I ordered it through a regular building supply store.  It's much smoother than the stuff in the box stores, to start with.  Rolled with oil based primer, sanded with 320, and sprayed with Pro Classic.  The "boards" are cut from box store MDF. That's my pretty standard ceiling for 8' ceilings.

I put that one up by myself, which was a pretty slow go.  I bought some brackets for holding the crown molding up, and wish I'd had them 40 years ago.  They made putting the crown up easier than with helpers.  I'll post some more pictures, once I download them into the computer.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Let the end of crown hang until you're ready to put the coped mate to it in place. 

I still cope crown the old way.  I use two coping saws, and two jewelers saws.  Two of each so I don't have to switch blades from staight to 90 degrees.  I like Jewelers saws better for the cove at the bottom of crown.  MDF crown is especially fragile for the thin parts of the cope.

The MDF boards are just glued up with Powergrab.  12 ton jack is overkill, but probably the smallest hydraulic jack I have.

This house is just a couple of hundred yards from our house.  I got Pam to come down to help me measure the pieces of crown.

Instructions for those crown brackets say to put a roofing tack one inch down from the ceiling.  This is 3-5/8 crown.  1-1/4" works better.

I don't do sheetrock ceilings in anything.

In order to have middle board over plywood joint, it didn't fall on a ceiling joist, so I used Togglers, and machine screws.

Plywood fasteners are 2-1/2" medium crown staples, shot on the bead-makes it easier to hide them.

Top of wall was rolled with wall paint, and cove on crown painted before putting it up.  That left no cutting in up there.  When the walls were draped, for spray painting the ceiling, the tape is put right on the upper point of the cove.








  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you don't see what that room adjoins, the natural finished, old Yellow Pine trim looks pretty dumb.  The five foot opening in this picture is into that room, and is the opening you see the zipper door in one of the previous pictures. This picture was taken before I put the Vinyl Plank floor down, but the carpet had been taken up.

We thought about painting the trim in that room, but it would have just been one more thing to do, so we're letting it go like it is.



  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's an excellent idea for painting an edge like that. Putting the tape on and using a marking gauge. I'll have to remember that If I ever have to paint  a door. This might be sooner rather than later. I'm goign to build an exterior door for the Grandparents. It might be nice to leave the inside wood.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Back when I was building one new house a year, I made a bunch of these rotisserie ends.  I don't keep strecthers for them, but just use whatever is laying around.  I do have a pile of 2x4's used for various support pieces for painting, and such odd jobs.

When I was doing that, we would set up one room as a spray room.  I never thought about putting casters under them, but now that I paint them outside, casters would be good.  Just sitting on moving dollies works okay on a smooth floor, but once I get it out in the yard, it's really a two person job.

One thing I thought of, working on this door with different finishes on each side, is that it would be good to have an indexing system that would lock it in position.  I used to use one handed, 5" random orbit sanders, but now that I have the 6" beast, it would be better if I could use it with two hands, and not have to hold the door with the other.

These ends are probably 35 years old, or more.  I built them back with good Yellow Pine was just bought off the racks.

Nothing but a screw for the pivot.

They're a little bit taller than my sawhorses, so I can put a door on sawhorses, and when both screws are run in an end, it lifts it off the sawhorses, making handling pretty easy.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Tom. It must be common not to paint the top and bottom edges of doors. None of the interior doors of my sons newer house were painted and I questioned that. Then when the contractor installed an entrance door to our bedroom and a linen closet door, the top and bottom edges were not painted but I had them correct that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll paint them when I lay the door back on sawhorses.  Take one screw out, and lower the door onto the sawhorses slid back under the door.  That lets the rotisserie bar pivot, letting you lower the door to the sawhorse, and then you can take the other screw out.  Even if I sprayed what part of the ends that you see, beyond the rotisserie bars, there would still be some left to paint.  I just don't worry about looking at the ends when I'm spraying.

It needs to be lowered back on sawhorses anyway, to be safe to transfer it where it's going.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 47 Guests (See full list)

  • Forum Statistics

    Total Topics
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    Total Members
    Most Online
    Newest Member