Sideboard TV Stand


legenddc
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I would finish after doing the hinge work and shelf pin hole.  There is always a chance of needing a light sanding after to get rid of any small splinters and fuzzies from drilling holes that may show up.

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On 1/10/2022 at 10:00 AM, Chestnut said:

.75" x 1" x 1.25"

Honestly at that size a half-lap or bridle would be tempting to maximize strength.

Thanks. The Fine Woodworking article has 2 6mm x 40mm Dominos in each joint so hopefully I'll be okay but before I cut anything I'll do another sanity check.

On 1/10/2022 at 2:14 PM, Chet said:

I would finish after doing the hinge work and shelf pin hole.  There is always a chance of needing a light sanding after to get rid of any small splinters and fuzzies from drilling holes that may show up.

Good point. Timing wise I don't think I could pre-finish it anyway. I think I'll have to have this done by Jan. 29th and then fill up the shop with furniture while we get our floors done.

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4 minutes ago, legenddc said:

Thanks. The Fine Woodworking article has 2 6mm x 40mm Dominos in each joint so hopefully I'll be okay but before I cut anything I'll do another sanity check.

That length seems a bit short to me. I'd at least try and run a 50mm long domino. Doing some maths dual 8mm dominoes would work. That would be almost 1" in the apron and leg.

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On 1/12/2022 at 1:06 PM, Mark J said:

I'm curious if you'll go with polyurethane or a hard wax oil?

Floors will be luxury vinyl tile so no finish will be applied. I started to look at wood flooring and wasn't sure which to go with for finish. With 2 young kids it would be nice to only have to fix damaged sections but it would also be nice to not get damaged sections at all.

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17 hours ago, legenddc said:

With 2 young kids it would be nice to only have to fix damaged sections but it would also be nice to not get damaged sections at all.

This is why I want hardwood floors. I guess my experience with wood floors is they last for ever. Some time in the next couple years I'll be replacing our main floor with all hardwood, kitchen and laundry included. Vinyl is a great option though, it's pretty easy to install and is quick.

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On 1/13/2022 at 7:57 AM, Chestnut said:

This is why I want hardwood floors. I guess my experience with wood floors is they last for ever. Some time in the next couple years I'll be replacing our main floor with all hardwood, kitchen and laundry included. Vinyl is a great option though, it's pretty easy to install and is quick.

We've gone back and forth a couple of times trying to decide. If we were going to stay here long-term hardwood might be our choice. Also, I was anxious to cover up that 1970s sheet linoleum in our basement that you can see in some of my pictures.

We'll see what life brings and if we regret that decision in a couple of years and how long we actually end up here. Outsourcing the install of it but I'll be doing the demo, prep and baseboards. Will have extra flooring ordered so when we do go to move I can finish the room I'm currently using as a shop.

Building a 65" long piece in a 155 Sq. ft. shop is challenging.

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  • 4 weeks later...

It's looking pretty sharp, but I'm also a fan of chunky legs.

On 1/13/2022 at 4:57 AM, Chestnut said:

This is why I want hardwood floors. I guess my experience with wood floors is they last for ever. Some time in the next couple years I'll be replacing our main floor with all hardwood, kitchen and laundry included. Vinyl is a great option though, it's pretty easy to install and is quick.

I know I'm late here, but my experience with wood floors has not been that they're particularly damage-resistant, from either kids or pets. Same goes for both softwood and the 50s oak in my last house. You can always refinish them of course, but that's a lot of trouble while still living in the house (paradoxically easier to do with a rental). Water-based poly is a godsend though, since you can fix problems without having to evacuate the home for a week. Wood definitely lasts, but requires almost as much work to keep maintained as replacing with a new floor. Nothing quite compares in look/feel though.

Current house is pergo/vinyl tile throughout, and it stood up to over a decade of heavy use (previous owner was a dog breeder) before we got our hands on it, and you can hardly find a scratch. I've seen the same flooring used in a machine shop as well.

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On 2/7/2022 at 12:27 PM, BonPacific said:

It's looking pretty sharp, but I'm also a fan of chunky legs.

I know I'm late here, but my experience with wood floors has not been that they're particularly damage-resistant, from either kids or pets. Same goes for both softwood and the 50s oak in my last house. You can always refinish them of course, but that's a lot of trouble while still living in the house (paradoxically easier to do with a rental). Water-based poly is a godsend though, since you can fix problems without having to evacuate the home for a week. Wood definitely lasts, but requires almost as much work to keep maintained as replacing with a new floor. Nothing quite compares in look/feel though.

Current house is pergo/vinyl tile throughout, and it stood up to over a decade of heavy use (previous owner was a dog breeder) before we got our hands on it, and you can hardly find a scratch. I've seen the same flooring used in a machine shop as well.

Thank you.

I think flooring wood floors would have been an option if we weren't also doing the basement. Buying enough that I can put down the floor in my shop whenever we go to move or I no longer need it as a shop.

Last night I got the stretchers shortened up so will be onto tapers, sanding, glue up and sanding.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Status update:

  • Legs are sanded, short sides glued together.
  • Rail and stile parts are rough cut and initial milling complete

This weekend I'll get the legs glued up completely. Hopefully I will be able to get the panels milled and glued up, along with any other milling needed.

How deep should the grooves be for the panels be? Is 3/8" enough?

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On 2/18/2022 at 7:42 PM, legenddc said:

How deep should the grooves be for the panels be? Is 3/8" enough?

For sliding panels?

I try and make all grooves less than half of the material thickness. For a grove in a structural side panel for a structural shelf less is more.

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On 2/21/2022 at 9:40 AM, Chestnut said:

For sliding panels?

I try and make all grooves less than half of the material thickness. For a grove in a structural side panel for a structural shelf less is more.

These will be for standard cabinet doors. Material should be 3/4" thick so I was thinking 1/4" wide and a 3/8" deep grooves.

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OH grooves in a panel door to hold the panel. I go 1/2" deep x ~1/4" for most of those grooves. For some reason i had dado for shelf stuck on my mind. Shallower than 1/2" gets tricky to size the panel for expansion and contraction and not have it fall out.

I leave about 3/8" to 7/16" of space for the panel to expand and contract. Keep in mind this is for the width. I usually size the length only 1/8" - 1/16" shy of the bottom of the groove.

If your using plywood you can throw this all out the window.

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Thank you. Using real wood, not plywood. I bought spaceballs just in case. 1/2" deep leaves me just enough room to run the panels through the planer. 

My wife took the kids to a show yesterday and I was able to get more time on this. Between taking Friday off and Sunday I got some good progress made. Yesterday I got the panels to the point I can glue them up and 2 out of 4 are already glued up.

For some reason my table saw isn't ripping at 90* despite it appearing at 90* with my squares. I thought it could be flex in the blade so I installed the big Forrest stiffener but that didn't change it. Will switch blade and see if that's a miracle fix. Really frustrating fussing with that instead of making more progress but I need to square before I cut the rails and stiles plus the grooves.

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Using full kerf or thin kerf? I've abandoned thin kerf blades due to flex and non-square cuts. Keep the blade clean & sharp and most importantly using the right blade for the job is far more important than thick vs thin kerf for power. For stability i had too many thin kerf blades warp. When you have a warped blade how are you supposed to get the dang thing square?

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On 2/21/2022 at 5:59 PM, curlyoak said:

Try the crank that tilts the blade. Make sure it is all the to the end and no debris holding it back. I admit once I did not crank it all the way. check it out.

The blade is showing at 90* when I check it with multiple squares on both sides, yet it's cutting not at 90*. 

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On 2/21/2022 at 6:25 PM, legenddc said:

The blade is showing at 90* when I check it with multiple squares on both sides, yet it's cutting not at 90*. 

Please crank the tilt wheel to the stop, when it cant go anymore. Then make a cut and measure with your square. Also is your square true? Strike a line with your square on a freshly jointed edge. Then flip the square 180 and see if the square is true.

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