Coop Posted January 7, 2022 Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 A long time friend of the family said he had a small desk that his dad used from home to operate his small company and could I try and do something with. I warned him that I had never refinished anything nor stained anything. He dropped it off and I’m not sure what I expected but should have expected the worse. Replacing bottom mount wood drawer glides, gluing back some small delaminated veneer and other small crap, I can do. The desk is probably a $30 item from K-Mart, 50 years ago and is certainly not a collectors item, just has sentimental value. I first thought of stripping it with some CitriStrip stuff (YouTube videos) but that turned out to be a big time mess so I took to sanding. Long story longer, this will get painted which he is good with. The problem now is the top and obviously the most prominent part. I have used some wood Bondo before with good results and could use it here. My bigger concern is another corner where the veneer is ripped off. This is about 1.5” in from the edge. My first thought was to use a straight edge and box blade to cut thru the veneer and a circ saw to finish cutting thru the entire piece and replace that with a breadboard end on each end. I don’t think replacing the entire top is an option. Anyone have a miracle solution? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted January 7, 2022 Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 WWTJD? It looks like the layer that has chipped away is thicker than 1-2 layers of commercial veneer. I think I’d be tempted to use a straight edge to clean up the damaged section and then use a router to cut down to a solid foundation and then size a piece to fill it back in flush. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 7, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 Then I would have to attack one end and not both? Good idea! Have I ever said I hate to paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 7, 2022 Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 If you are painting, Bondo will be your best friend. Just remove all those loose bits of veneer first. Once Bondo (automotive or wood, I can't tell any difference except the color) is cured, it shapes pretty well with coarse sandpaper or a fine rasp or file. Not sure I would use it to form an edge profile or replace that mangled corner by itself, though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted January 7, 2022 Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 I guess it's too late but I had some luck when restoring a couple pieces of furniture to not strip the finish but try dye to make the damaged parts mimic the existing stain. It doesn't result in it looking brand new again but has been good enough. With the damage on the top you could spend a lot of time trying to fix it which is ok. Could you also just remove he old top and cut a new one? It appears to just be plywood. If more time is available than money i get that. My 2nd option would be to just cut the ends off and glue on replacement ply or wood. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted January 7, 2022 Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 You could rip the top and use the stripes for the edges (miter joints), wrapping a fresh rectangle of plywood. Finally you will have to edge band the entire top. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chet Posted January 7, 2022 Popular Post Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 My suggestion is quite a bit different then what has been said above but it might be a faster solution. I would leave the shop door open, go in the house and have a beer or two and hope the desk is gone when you come back out to continue working on it. 1 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2022 I’m afraid that removing the top would be a disaster as they attached the top to the legs with the corrugated brads/nails type things and there are triangular glue block attaching the side panels to the top. I woke up last night with a plan, jotted it down on a sticky note and went back to bed. I’m thinking putting some sort of curved vertical piece along the back edge, sitting on the top and continuing it forward five or six inches on the sides. I’m sure there is a name for these pieces? I will remove the damaged thin veneer on the bad part, replace it and the new piece will cover the repair. The other corner will receive a bondo patch. I will paint the whole thing with a wire brush. Actually, my brother is pretty good at spraying cabinet grade paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 8, 2022 Report Share Posted January 8, 2022 Sure it wouldn't be simer to build a look-alike, and pass it of as the repair? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2022 Something like this. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2022 On 1/7/2022 at 6:18 PM, wtnhighlander said: Sure it wouldn't be simer to build a look-alike, and pass it of as the repair? I’d like nothing more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ronn W Posted January 8, 2022 Popular Post Report Share Posted January 8, 2022 I have no good ideas, so after a few glasses of wine, I will suggest the following. Do what ever you hvae to to level the finish and raiese veneer on the existing top. Remove the shaped edge with track saw and/ or flush trim bit (watch out for nails. Add a 1/2" plywood top with coutersunk screws that you can plug and sand. Band the edges with 3/4" material and route a new edge profile. Then cut 1/2" off the bottoms of the legs to keep the height the same. Sand and paint. Did the wine help? 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2022 Ronn, you did give this some thought!! However, the right and left front edges are proud of the shaped edge expect at it’s peak and is flush at that point. I spent quite a bit of time today, cleaning the profile of the tops edge with a brass bristle brunch and whatever else I could find. I also cut the three strips that will fit on the top and bought the wood bondo. But yes, the wine did help ........ make me want a beer! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2022 I really hate to rely on other’s mistakes and success but I’m greedy and just darn near desperate as I hate to paint. This is a partial view of this desk, with the stain completely sanded from the solid wood legs, partially removed from the veneered drawer fronts, and darn near sanded thru the veneer on the side side panels but still darker than the rest.From watching YouTube videos, particularly Marc’s “Coloring/Staining Blotchy Woods”, I might be able to stain, using gel stain, GF as preferred by Marc, instead of paint. On Marc’s video, he used bare wood in his demo, followed with a coat of shellac, then the gel. For those of you, particularly @Chet, or Marc or/and anyone else familiar with shellac and maybe even shellac and gel stain combined, can I use the combo of the two on my three stages of sanding? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 9, 2022 Report Share Posted January 9, 2022 Ken, maybe some else has better experience with stain matching than I, but it's really difficult to match the color of a piece like that. My advice is to at least avoid trying to 'feather in' the color on a panel that is only partially sanded. As for using shellac and gel stain together, yes it will adhere. I can't say that the gel stain will look GOOD over shellac, but that is my limited experience. If I were attempting this, I might use a regular stain on the bare parts to get close, then apply a dilute coat of shellac, and gel stain over the entire pice to blend the surfaces as much as possible. I would even consider not completely wiping the gel out of the nooks and crannies, to give it a more aged, work appearance. That shading will also help disguise any color mis-match between the surfaces. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Mark J Posted January 9, 2022 Popular Post Report Share Posted January 9, 2022 If you don't already have the gel stain, I recommend the Bartley product over the General Finishes product. Bartley is much thicker, pudding vs. honey. That makes it easier to apply, especially on vertical surfaces. Also it has less tack when applied so attracts fewer dust nibs. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2022 After watching probably too many videos, I’ve decided to go ahead and sacrifice this piece to the paint gods. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted January 9, 2022 Report Share Posted January 9, 2022 On 1/9/2022 at 8:56 AM, Coop said: After watching probably too many videos, I’ve decided to go ahead and sacrifice this piece to the paint gods. After seeing what this piece started out looking like, and what you have had to do as far as repairs and sanding, I think that is a good choice. AND it won't be in your house so you won't be seeing it much if at all. Out of sight, out of mind. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Mark J Posted January 9, 2022 Popular Post Report Share Posted January 9, 2022 I would paint it pink or day glow yellow, lest someone comes along with another piece that Uncle Coop might repair. 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2022 Probably a dumb question but how does one put a bead on the face of a board with a curve in it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 10, 2022 Report Share Posted January 10, 2022 Ken, a trim router, a V-groove bit, and a fence that contacts the work at a single point on either side of the bit will follow the curve. Then use a bearing guided roundove bit to complete the bead. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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