Knife Display Case


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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/3/2022 at 5:40 AM, wtnhighlander said:

my Dewalt screaming machine at 4:30 am, that would be worse than when the neighbor brought home 4 new roosters!

I'd rather have the dewalt than the roosters next door to me. Good tip on the bench.

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Ross why don’t you use some of that butter and egg money to but a 220V electric heater in there, mine hangs from the ceiling and makes the garage nice and toasty even when it’s below zero out, oh and nice work, enjoy following along with this one

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8 minutes ago, treeslayer said:

Ross why don’t you use some of that butter and egg money to but a 220V electric heater in there, mine hangs from the ceiling and makes the garage nice and toasty even when it’s below zero out, oh and nice work, enjoy following along with this one

Hard to make that work on a single 120v, 20a circuit!  Power upgrades are definitely on my wish list. I can't even run the DC along with the planer for more than a pass or two. 

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I'm surprised your body heat didn't warm your space up ....that's a LOT of work.

For all the hand work that you do have you thought about making a resaw frame saw? I see you do the kerf and finish with a panel saw method often. I just feel like making a frame saw would make these tasks a bit better and easier? Just a thought.

Carry on with the great work! The maple looks more and more awesome as this moves on.

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Drew, I have indeed considered a frame saw. But not from a desire to fo this hand work, trust me. There is too much of the "work" part involved. I think I'd be happy to just have a coarser hand saw for these occasions. Guess I could learn to re-file one of the old saws I have collected.

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With a half-hour of pre-workday time to myself, I got started laying out the cuts needed to make the grain matched corners. I consider these 'sanity marks', because they keep me from orienting the pieces incorrectly on the saw. Machine setup will determine the actual cuts.

First, stack the resawn pair in their natural orientation and mark.

IMG_20220210_044918830.thumb.jpg.af48f168af4f60e38984aab25763e597.jpg

Next, 'open the book' end to end. Confirm that the grain of the inner faces is a good match.

IMG_20220210_045101489.thumb.jpg.566cfdf11c83a31409847e9ac1a99b03.jpg

Now I mark the parts to length. From one end, label bottom, side, top, side in that order with the boards still laid end to end. The result:

IMG_20220210_050148015.thumb.jpg.93a121897d64ac8e236ce683c420a42b.jpg

Ever beveled cut is marked all the way around. Keeping my sanity, remember?

IMG_20220210_051347947.thumb.jpg.30c32b8610e4f3ddc5b5cc63a67191bf.jpg

Not pictured, but I also marked the beveled rip cuts that will remove a 2" strip from the front edge. That strip becomes the frame for the acrylic door front. 

Now to begin machine setup.

IMG_20220210_051543705.thumb.jpg.aeee279d4ecdca5c42145e3c78234cd7.jpg

I find these plastic drafting squares to be very accurate. Step 1 is to match it with my bevel gauge.

Step 2, align the saw blade.

IMG_20220210_051949077.thumb.jpg.1e597be7383625bbeba1dbf1a4b82e58.jpg

I had to stop here, as I uncovered a problem. I was planning to shift my single-runner crosscut sled from the left slot to tge right, and cut the bevels with it. Lo and behold, the right miter slot in my saw table is a few thou wider than the left, so the runner isn't snug. Since I have just one shot to make these cuts without losing the grain match, I guess I'll be making a new sled.

 

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11 hours ago, Mark J said:

This may not solve your problem, but I have used layers of packaging tape, or similar, to "shim" a miter slot runner.

I actually tried that before time ran out this morning, but it was too snug to slide well. I also discovered that my saw seems to be a little out of square at full tilt. I rarely cut bevel than need this much precision, so never noticed before. I ruminated on the problem during my morning commute. I think I have a solution, but want to validate by experimentation before I lay it out here.

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