Knife Display Case


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Ken, my say fence is extruded aluminum, with channels that work like T track. I use a couple of 1/4"x20 bolts and wing nuts to attach it. 

And before anyone mentions the non-no of using a featherboard behind the blade, that one is not applying any pressure. It really doesn't even touch the work, unless the piece starts to wander at the end of the cut.

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On 2/27/2022 at 10:03 PM, wtnhighlander said:

And before anyone mentions the non-no of using a featherboard behind the blade, that one is not applying any pressure. It really doesn't even touch the work, unless the piece starts to wander at the end of the cut.

Maybe I’m too tired to think it through, but why is that a no-no? 

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6 hours ago, JohnG said:

Maybe I’m too tired to think it through, but why is that a no-no? 

A featherboard's intented purpose is to press the stock tightly to the fence or table. Used that way behind the blade, it would squeeze the kerf closed on the rising teeth and cause kick-back. Especially with a older saw like mine, which has no riving knife.

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Ah, of course. Makes total sense now. 

I had thought you were only taking a kerf width cut or less, meaning there would be no offcut to pinch the blade with, and the featherboard would only be contacting the actual work piece.

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Thanks, Dave. On the back, I have a rim of cleat that runs all the war around, so it can hang in any orientation. Not a mitered cleat, but a rabbet. Haven't decided if a simple pan-head screw in the wall will do, or if a mating cleat needs to go with it.

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