shotgun case build - need some advice


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Sounds like a great project for father and son and that’s some beautiful wood, as to the fiberglass, I’ve never done it so I don’t know but IMO I wouldn’t think it would be necessary, it’s going to get dings eventually anyway and will have a great story to tell, be sure to post some pictures of the build as you go and welcome to the forum, great bunch of folks here we’re glad to have you and your son

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treeslayer - progress pictures attached. We're pretty active in 4-H so some of these pictures were staged...I didn't let him make the vertical cuts on the tablesaw, makes me nervous when I do it. I'll keep you updated as we come along. Next step is to use the pantorouter to cut the dovetails. 

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Wow really good question...I could see this going either way fiberglass and epoxy would definitely cut down on dings and make it much easier to fix but it would also add weight to the case. I think I might be tempted to put trim or corners on the case as an alternative. 

BTW I look forward to following your build I have this on my long list of projects I would like to do. I have a Citori trap gun that could use a nice case.

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A comment on your veneer plans: Add a layer to the inside of the ply as well, or it stands a good chance of curling up. Veneer should always cover both sides. Non-show side can be any species, just needs to balance moisture transmission to the core.

Fiberglass has the additional benefit of strength and waterproofing. IMO, if you fiberglass the maple, just use the maple at 3/8", no good reason I can see to make the sandwich with ply.

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I think you can find brass corners. Or make some brass corners. Google luggage hardware. If you never used SOSS hinges, then a requirement is to practice until your practice meets your quality needed. Plan on a lot of practice. If you have experience with SOSS then you know what I mean. And having a partner on the project always makes it better. And more fun!

 

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wtnhighlander - now that's a great idea: fiberglass the panels and leave them at 3/8, brilliant.

curlyoak - I don't have any experience with SOSS hinges, this is my first stab. I'm optimistic that the pantorouter will help make consistent holes and I plan on lots of practice with some pine. Thanks for the advice/warning.

what are your thoughts on applying a finish over the epoxy (oil-based wipe on poly is my go-to)? If I sand to ~320-400, it should be OK if the epoxy is fully cured, right?

Edited by tperson
thought of a question to ask
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On 1/27/2022 at 8:49 AM, tperson said:

what are your thoughts on applying a finish over the epoxy (oil-based wipe on poly is my go-to)? If I sand to ~320-400, it should be OK if the epoxy is fully cured, right?

I would not try that.

 

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https://www.vandykes.com/trunk-corner/p/206085/s/02004882/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=ppc_google_pla&gclid=Cj0KCQiAosmPBhCPARIsAHOen-P8R6HgX_pzzoNNeTU-AqANyKSKlLcvDLd7ZFBQiwviYWC_KDn8ZO0aAhiIEALw_wcB is a link to a brass corner. Found it in seconds when I googled luggage hardware. Corners will add a lot of protection beyond just the corners.

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In a woodworkers point of view, I feel the fiberglass will plasticize (apparently not a word) the look. I would go with several coats of top coat and the recommended brass corners and treat the case as you would the gun. Both will receive some expected minor abuse in the long run. 

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On 1/27/2022 at 5:45 PM, wtnhighlander said:

If you use glass cloth and resin, additional finish may be unnecessary. Look up how glass a cedar strip canoe, the last step is often brushing on a thin layer of resin to get a glassy-smooth finish. 

As long is it is not exposed to long periods of sun. If it is you would want a top coat of Urethane or something that provides UV protection.

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Curlyoak: [mentioning brass corners] yes, they are on my radar and I believe are a definite must. That said, the ones you sent are nicer than what I had envisioned, thanks.

 

Man of wood: “just built it, no matter what you put on it will dent.”

  • I believe you’re correct.

 

Coop: “…I feel the fiberglass will palasticize the look.”

  • That was one of my fears as well, unnecessary work/cost and unfamiliarity with the process were my others.

 

Wow guys, thanks for the great suggestions, I expected nothing less from this community. I think where I stand now is to not fiberglass the panels but to make a thick veneer and bond them to a piece of ¼” ply (balanced, of course). Supposed to be nice weather here today and tomorrow so I really should work on the range. If I get after it, I can get the high house walk-in door reset, the roof on and the last 4 sheets of tin on the high house…and then put the traps in the houses! I leave on Sunday for Charlotte/Raleigh and wont be back until 2/5 so, whatever doesn’t get done tonight or tomorrow will have to wait (it might be a while before I have an update).

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I would skip the fiberglass option. You might end up with a case that weighs more them the gun. It is going to dent, so don't worry about it. Think if them as reminders of good times.

And I am seriously jealous of you skeet range in the back yard. Skeet is my family's favorite get together. Unfortunately, the nearest open range is 90 miles away from us. (Where is that jealousy emoji...:rolleyes:)

 

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Just a reminder: Like Norm would say: "don't forget these, safety glasses"...and I would add, hearing and a mask.  Especially with spalted lumber, the 'mold' likes the warm, moist, dark area inside our lungs. If you inhale the dusk..the mold can revive itself.

I do skip the mask once in a while...but never with spalted lumber.   

My wife likes spalted maple.  Unless it is really 'spongy', the ding should be not a problem. Try pushing with your nail, even spalted it is most likely still more dent resistant than pine.  Looking at the picture, it does not look 'spongy', too far gone. 

If it was sugar maple, unless it is too far gone, it should do fine in term of dent.

I use dewaxed shellac & varathane water based floor finish (yes floor).  It helps to keep the maple as light in color as possible while highlighting the 'spalted'.

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  • 1 month later...

That case is gorgeous!

BTW, you might try splitting it apart on the table saw. Use a 7.25" circular saw blade, they have a kerf width approaching bandsaw dimensions. Set the blade height just short of completely through the material, that way it won't close up on you. The use a flush-cut saw or even a razor knife to separate the halves, and a block plane to smooth away the remaining ridge.

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funny you mention this wtnhighlander, that's exactly my plan...I switched to 7.25" circular saw blades in my 10" tablesaw several years ago and refuse to go back. You think a 3Hp 10" saw is powerful, put a 7.25" blade on it...and push as fast as you want, it'll eat it.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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