Add gate to existing fence?


L2090301

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Hello all,

I have a board on board fence with no gate, to which I would like to add a self-closing and self-latching gate.

My first thought was to remove the outer most pickets on each side and the cut the rails along the inside of each post with a reciprocating saw on section of fence where I want the gate, and use that section of the fence as the gate, but I’m not sure if that’s the best way to approach this or to build a new gate from scratch?

Either way, it looks like I’d have to cut from top to bottom through the picket on what would be the hinge side (the right side in the attached pic), which seems like a very difficult task because I don't have a table saw, so I'm not sure how to approach that, if I have to.

How would you go about adding the gate to this section of this fence?

NOTE: As viewed, this gate will swing out & to the right on a slight decline.

66E709EF-9E32-4165-9FA9-2E11792F845F.thumb.jpeg.80a7de443cfddeb2fb45852f1748b798.jpeg

Top of post on right (hinge side) showing picket I believe will need to cut from top to bottom.

D3830EEE-94B7-451E-A90D-D297BC90E8FD.thumb.jpeg.c52cf94f5a654b08e4977418de09b9ec.jpeg

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Can we assume that the 1x pickets are nailed to the 2x’s? It would be great if they are screwed so that you can use them over on the NEW gate so they will match the existing. I would build a new one regardless and use fresh 2x rails, one at the top and one at the bottom and a diagonal cross brace connecting the two. Resolve the ripping of the concerned picket by spacing them a smidge tighter together. No one will ever notice. Here’s an example of mine that needs cleaning and refinishing. I got tired of gates sagging and used 1/4” galvanized carriage bolts, washers and nuts to attach the pickets. Excuse the bad lighting as the sun has already set.

C01D132C-B793-4C41-9BA3-C169F4282DA3.thumb.jpeg.28e5e54aa7da98a1e9ca06f541fda97f.jpeg

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The locations of the fence boards are perfect for doing this the way you need it to swing.  The one board over the hinge post will need to be ripped down the middle, and the other side almost needs nothing  but cutting the rails.  It will need some diagonal bracing that I would put in place before anything is cut.

Rip the board only where the hinges will go plus some extra above and below the hinges, mount the hinges making sure to keep all the barrels aligned, and then rip the rest of that board above and below the hinges.  Cut the rails on the hinge post, and the you will have an operable gate. 

I would use substantial hinges that you can through fasten to the rails.

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On 4/22/2022 at 9:20 PM, Coop said:

Can we assume that the 1x pickets are nailed to the 2x’s? It would be great if they are screwed so that you can use them over on the NEW gate so they will match the existing. I would build a new one regardless and use fresh 2x rails, one at the top and one at the bottom and a diagonal cross brace connecting the two. Resolve the ripping of the concerned picket by spacing them a smidge tighter together. No one will ever notice. Here’s an example of mine that needs cleaning and refinishing. I got tired of gates sagging and used 1/4” galvanized carriage bolts, washers and nuts to attach the pickets. Excuse the bad lighting as the sun has already set.

C01D132C-B793-4C41-9BA3-C169F4282DA3.thumb.jpeg.28e5e54aa7da98a1e9ca06f541fda97f.jpeg

Thanks!

I actually used deck screws to attach the 1xs to the 2xs, but that seems like a lot of work to unscrew all the 1xs and start over.  Why not just add the new 2xs the. either keep or remove them?

That said, great idea about spacing the pickets a smidge tighter together, to resolve the ripping of the concerned picket, but they would obviously all have to be removed first; got it.

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On 4/22/2022 at 9:58 PM, Tom King said:

The locations of the fence boards are perfect for doing this the way you need it to swing.  The one board over the hinge post will need to be ripped down the middle, and the other side almost needs nothing  but cutting the rails.  It will need some diagonal bracing that I would put in place before anything is cut.

Rip the board only where the hinges will go plus some extra above and below the hinges, mount the hinges making sure to keep all the barrels aligned, and then rip the rest of that board above and below the hinges.  Cut the rails on the hinge post, and the you will have an operable gate. 

I would use substantial hinges that you can through fasten to the rails.

Thanks!

How would you go about ripping the board without a table saw?

As for diagonal bracing that you would put in place before anything is cut, would that be like in Coop’s pic, where you’d only have a top and bottom rail, or what exactly are you recommending?

And what would use for “substantial hinges”? 

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It's just wood.  There are many ways to cut it.  Since they're put on with screws, I'd just take that one board down and cut it. There is probably someone near you who has some kind of saw.  The saw kerf will just give a little needed clearance anyway.  Taking that board down would also allow you to cut the rails on top of the post, instead of off to the side of the post.

I would put diagonal bracing tightly between the rails as they exist.  "X's" would look fine, or just a single one on top of the rails.  The diagonal bracing is very important.

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On 4/23/2022 at 7:46 AM, Tom King said:

It's just wood.  There are many ways to cut it.  Since they're put on with screws, I'd just take that one board down and cut it. There is probably someone near you who has some kind of saw.  The saw kerf will just give a little needed clearance anyway.  Taking that board down would also allow you to cut the rails on top of the post, instead of off to the side of the post.

I would put diagonal bracing tightly between the rails as they exist.  "X's" would look fine, or just a single one on top of the rails.  The diagonal bracing is very important.

Thanks.

If I decide to try to rip it, I'm thinking the best way to do so would be with a table saw, which I don't have.  I do have a circular saw, a reciprocating saw, a jig saw and a few different hand saws, but I don't believe any of them are right for this, so I'd be looking into alternative options. 

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As for making the gate self-closing and self-latching; I'm thinking that if I switch the side that I put the hinges on, I feel the gate would have an easier time "self-closing" in the direction of the decline, rather than trying to self-close in the direction of the upward slope.

Thoughts?

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2 hours ago, L2090301 said:

Thanks.

If I decide to try to rip it, I'm thinking the best way to do so would be with a table saw, which I don't have.  I do have a circular saw, a reciprocating saw, a jig saw and a few different hand saws, but I don't believe any of them are right for this, so I'd be looking into alternative options. 

My paltry suggestions.  For ripping a board this narrow, the power tools of choice would be a table saw or a bandsaw, neither of which you have (but you may be able to rent/borrow/call on a friend).  You could rip the board with a handsaw.  It's only one board and probably won't be difficult.  I like a Japanese style pull saw; worth buying if you don't have one.  If handsaw is not your thing and you have a capable jigsaw, you could use it.  If you freehand, the cut edge might be a little rustic.  If the board to be ripped could be clamped to a straight edge this could serve as a guide for the jigsaw.  Just my opinion, but I think using a track saw, a circular saw, or a reciprocating saw are all uniformly bad ideas.  

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