newbie joinery advice

[ArielZusya]

I'm very green when it comes to woodworking (yeah--saw it as I wrote it). The last time I did any was in 8th-grade-shop-class (nearly 35 years ago), but I've always wanted to get back into it. I am finally starting with some basic projects, adding techniques as I go. I made a 2x4 chair for my back porch and now I want to make a convertible footrest/coffee table to go with it. For the chair I played with pocket hole joinery and really basic dowel joinery, but most of the wood came together at 90-degree butts and the dowels were not hidden. For the footrest I've drawn, I have a 27" square (outer dimension) frame made from 2x6 which hides a recessed plywood shelf and a 2x4 frame below that with casters below that. My thinking is, pillow (picked a reasonable outdoor 24"x24"x5" one up at homedepot for $19) gets inserted when used as a footrest (or extra seating) and gets removed when used as a coffee table. I've attached a quick render.

Where the 2x6s come together, I'd like to do a miter cut. New territory for me and so I'm looking for advice on joining them. In terms of power tools I have a compound miter saw, a drill, and a circular saw (and a bora saw guide). I've also got both a pocket hole jig and a dowel jig, various hand saws, and chisels. I don't yet have a table saw, a plate joiner, or a router so I'm thinking rabbet, biscuit, and spline are out of reach. My instinct is hidden dowel, but I haven't done that yet.

What direction do you think I should head in for this (balancing my inexperience with my desire to learn)? Thanks in advance!

Ariel
in Denver

 

[wtnhighlander]

I suggest acquiring a good, true square that you can use to set your miter saw correctly. An inexpensive drafting square from a hobby or art supply store is perfect.  I would use the circular saw and guide, followed by chusels, to form the groove to accept the plywood, before cutting the miters. Also, check your stock for straight edges and square corners, which go a long way toward getting the miter to fit properly. With only the tools you listed, you may have to resort to careful paring and block-sanding to get the faces flat.

Ensure that your opposing sides of the 'box' are exactly the same finished length, as any difference will introduce a gap at the corners.  Place the pieces back to back, one cut end against a flat stop, like the miter saw fence. Feel across the other end to compare lengths, that is more accurate than eyesight.

You can also use the miter saw to make a 'biscuit' slot for splines in the mitered ends, or a full slot if you don't mind it showing. The saw should have a bolt under its pivot, which acts as a depth stop. Adjust it so the blade cuts no more than half-way through a scrap of the box board. With the mitered end cut facing up and toward the 45* tilted blade, cut across the miter, and the cut will be square. Use a stop block clamped to the fence to ensure each cut is the same distance from the end.

Honestly, your tool set is capable of this. The biggest hurdle will be having flat, square stock to begin with. Best bet is to try to get that when you purchase it, but CHECK, don't assume that even fully surfaced, shrink wrapped boards are straight and true.

[ArielZusya]

Thanks so much for the response! I am so excited to go check out the depth setting on the miter saw. I love the idea of using it to cut the grooves for the splines! I assume I would also use it to cut the splines themselves? Since I'm making this out of 2x6, can I just cut the splines from 2x4, or do I need to get something like masonite or are there pre-made splines like I would find pre-made biscuits?

And thank you also for the suggestion about using the circular saw guide to cut the mortises for the shelf. That was going to be my next thing to figure out (and I was leaning toward not doing it and instead just having it butt against the 2x6 and sit on a 2x4 frame below; your suggestion is 1000x better!). I've only used the guide on plywood so far. Makes total sense to use it for cutting the mortises! I am imagining moving the guide to cut several parallel grooves in the wood and then finishing with a chisel. Is that what you were thinking?

And yes to checking the wood. I'm always amazed at the "quality" (a word I use tentatively) of the stock I get from home depot. When I get a bit better at all of this I look forward to shopping at our Rockler store for stock. I've tried to find local sources for wood outside of home depot, but so far I've only found places that sell in too large a quantity for my needs.

[wtnhighlander]

"i assume I would also use it to cut the splines themselves? "

You can, but take care to use something other than your fingers to hold small pieces at the miter saw. Also, for the greatest strength, the grain of the spline should be oriented across the joint. Might be tricky to hold and cut such a piece on a miter saw. A strip of thin plywood will work fine.

"I am imagining moving the guide to cut several parallel grooves in the wood and then finishing with a chisel."

Yes, exactly. Be sure to secure the workpiece firmly against your work surface, and consider laying an equally thick support piece alongside, to prevent the saw from tipping.

[Coop]

You always give great advice Ross, whether to seasoned woodworkers or to newbies. Welcome to the forum @ArielZusya! 

[JohnG]

On 7/8/2022 at 9:26 PM, ArielZusya said:

When I get a bit better at all of this I look forward to shopping at our Rockler store for stock.

I’d recommend moving up to quality materials sooner rather than later. A lot of people get started thinking they should use cheap construction lumber until they “get better.” The problem with this is that it is very difficult to end up with the results they are imagining when you start with material that is rarely ever straight, square, or flat. Construction lumber takes a lot of work to get it straight, square, and flat enough that it is possible to end up without gaps or wobble. Check your Rockler for surfaced lumber, the pricing will be better than the surfaced material at Home Depot, and it will be better quality. You don’t have to start out with the expensive exotics. Depending on your location, get the cheapest species they have. Poplar, ash, douglas fir, whatever is the most abundant in your area. You’ll be set up for success and won’t have the wood working against you.

[Mark J]

Ariel, I bet there is a woodworking club in the Denver area.  Club members are quick to help out newcomers, not only with advice, but access to equipment. 

[ArielZusya]

Thanks @wtnhighlander for all of the direction. Very helpful! Thanks @Coop for the warm welcome. Happy to have found this place. And thank you all for your responses. I made my first visit to Rockler yesterday. I can see myself spending a lot of time (and money) there in the not too distant future. I can also see what you mean, @JohnG about moving up sooner. Prices weren't as bad as I expected (as long as I stay clear of the exotics for now). I also checked out their community board while there and found some listings for local clubs, so thanks @Mark J for that tip! I think I've got my design complete now for the footrest/coffee table/extra seating. And away we go!

[Coop]

Good luck! Woodworking is definitely a rabbit hole and only as deep as your wallet will allow. If you are cautiously serious, I would suggest a decent table saw and yes, venture away from Home Depot’s southern yellow pine to a more appreciably but not necessarily more expensive wood on the next project. As others have said in the past, the next tool/machine to buy is the one that will help you on your next project. 

[ArielZusya]

@Coop--agreed. My list of wants is long, but I think a good table saw may be next. Though I've been going back and forth between that and a router. My thinking is that, for now, I can use the circular saw track in place of the table saw until I get one, but I have nothing I can do in place of a router (for many applications I'd like to try). On the other hand a table saw is fundamental. It'll be ping pong on that one for a while. Also, was that a rabbit hole or a rabbet hole? (Sorry, couldn't resist given that we started on joinery.)

[gee-dub]

This is an exciting and satisfying craft.  There are so many types of "woodworking" that there is something for just about anybody.  Just as with any activity there are entry level tools and efforts.  We've all lusted after a dream tool of one sort or another but the basics will do a lot of work.

I am a tablesaw-centric woodworker for the most part.  Much of my thought process on implementing a design uses a tablesaw for joinery and parts sizing.  For the hybrid woodworker I would argue that with a good jointer and planer one could do without the tablesaw if you have a good bandsaw.  Cost is not the issue.  We are talking about a large, capable bandsaw which can reach tablesaw prices pretty easily.

I only mention this as food for thought.  I could certainly do more with a mid level tablesaw than I could with a mid level bandsaw.  That discussion aside a router is a very versatile tool and would be welcome in nearly all motorized shops.  A mid-sized combination kit will probably still be with you many years from now so this is a long term investment.  I have Milwaukee routers I have been running for 15 years without issue.  I cannot speak for how they are making them now or what the price point is.  When you are shopping for one try to get it in your hands before making your decision.  A hand held router has to feel right to .  If it feels awkward it doesn't matter how good someone else thinks it is ;-)

I see several lumber yards in the Denver area.  I would dedicate a morning to visiting 3 or more and choose the one that you like best.  Poplar is about the cost of dimensional lumber at the BORG and will treat you much better with less waste.  Have fun!