Gaming Dining Table Curved Aprons and a TV?


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I'm looking at building a table similar to the gaming dining table, with a couple of modifications.  Thought I'd see if anyone here might have some tips for how I should put this thing together.  I'm afraid I may be biting off a whole lot more than I can chew. lol.

1. I want to make the shape of the vault and aprons curved slightly for a unique look, probably using lamination of walnut sheets milled to 1/8" thickness for an overall thickness of 1".  Similar to the Wyrmwood Prophecy gaming table design (minus the fancy height adjustable play surface. lol).

2. I am mounting a 43" tv flush to the bottom of the vault so that I can use it for digital D&D maps and I'll also make an insert of 1/4" plywood lined with padded material for when that's not in use.  The TV is pretty thin, but is still about 3" deep.  That means that I'll need an inner vault box to support the arm rests, as well as additional side aprons to hide the support structure for the TV beneath the vault, and to provide a secure point to attach the braces that the TV will be mounted to. (alternatively, I thought about building those mounts as part of the vault box, but I'm not sure that's enough cross bracing for the weight of both the vault and the TV (the TV is 25 lbs, give or take).

3. instead of doing a t-slot for accessories, I want to add a 1/8" thick steel band inset slightly into the top of the curved apron so that I can use flush mounted rare earth magnets in the accessories to hold them in place.  Since the apron is curved, that's all but essential, because I can't think of a way to cut a t-slot that would work.  In the images, you might be able to see a gap above the curved apron - that's where the steel will go.  I removed that portion of panel face to remind myself to add some structural support for the arm rests in that gap.

4. I'm on the fence about whether to do an inset table topper, or make one that sits on top of the table and overhangs slightly.  Either way, it shouldn't be an issue since the only thing required for the inset leaves is a rabbet, which I think I can route into the armrests using a flush trim rabbet bit without much issue. 

I know the style of the components I want to use, but I can't figure out the best way to engineer the joinery and supports so that they'll hold up over time.   I've linked the sketchup file so you can see what I've got so far. (definitely a work in progress - side note, I couldn't figure out how to extrude the curved faces in sketchup, so the aprons show as curved faces with no thickness.  They will probably be ~3/4")

One of the big problems I have to solve, is how to connect the armrests to the curved aprons. They're about 5" wide, so I'm trying to decide if there's a structural need to use it as support, or can I just mount the vault box to the legs and run the external apron to a mortise and tenon joint at the ends for lateral support of the overall frame?   

Sorry if this description is a bit rambling.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Sketchup 2022 File:





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Very interesting design!

Regarding the 'arm rest' attachment, my opinion is that 5" overhang should have more support that just the legs. I believe I would at least glue the arm rest to the top edge of the apron, possibly reinforced with dowels or dominoes. I assume that 'arm rest' refers to the flat rim around the top of the table. Since it isn't a full panel, it should not be subject to wood movement concerns that normally dictate how a table top attaches to the base.

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I was planning on doing bent lamination of 1/8" or 1/16" walnut boards, but now I'm leaning away from doing the curve at all.  I love the look of it, but it makes the accessories I want to build for it much much harder to install.  Lighting channels along the bottom of the vault, for instance, normally use recessed straight aluminum channels to mount the LED strip and diffuser on, which I wouldn't be able to use with a curve.  I'd also have problems adding on a 'gamemaster station' at the end since it would have to be cut to fit the shape of the curve.  Much more difficult than making a rectangular shelf with an end cap. 

Aside from those issues, I don't feel like I have enough experience under my belt to make all these parts uniform.  The last thing I'd want is to check the curve of my pieces and realize they don't match after spending all the time required to do the glue up.

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