Flat Top Grind Crosscut 10" Blade


roughsawn

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I just use the 24T freud industrial flat grind. Regardless of the blade you should score / use a marking knife on your cuts as well as using a backer board or sacrificial fence this will prevent blow out and tear out more than anything. You don't really need more teeth if the blade is sharp.

I've done a LOT of half laps and joinery with that blade and it's still sharp. I clean it very regularly probably every project. Heck i was too lazy to swap that blade out and did an entire project with that blade as my cross cutting blade, no issues there.

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On 12/22/2022 at 8:43 AM, Chestnut said:

I just use the 24T freud industrial flat grind. Regardless of the blade you should score / use a marking knife on your cuts as well as using a backer board or sacrificial fence this will prevent blow out and tear out more than anything. You don't really need more teeth if the blade is sharp.

I've done a LOT of half laps and joinery with that blade and it's still sharp. I clean it very regularly probably every project. Heck i was too lazy to swap that blade out and did an entire project with that blade as my cross cutting blade, no issues there.

+1 I have the same blade and same experience. 

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A dado set is going to be your flexible answer for dados.  For grooves I use a 50T 'groover' made by Carbide Processors; others make them as well.  If a 24T rip is not crosscutting as cleanly as you are after many makers will custom make a blade for you.  For off the shelf . . .  FTG rip blades, box joint sets or dado stacks are the rule of the day.  Here's a 40T FTG from Ridge similar to the custom 50T I have.

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Cross cut blades are designed to cleanly cut perpendicular to the wood fibers using alternate top bevel. Rip blades are designed to chop through the fibers, chisel like, running parallel. Combination blades are designed as a compromise to cut with less efficiency both ways. They are called combination blades because they usually have sets of 4 teeth with alternate top bevel for cross cutting and one flat top tooth for chopping. As a result, a combination blade will make the cuts you need with a fairly flat bottom; some better than others but usually good enough with a bit of fine tuning with a shoulder plane or sandpaper block.

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The Dewalt, surprisingly, dado set has the cleanest bottoms of grooves of any of my dado blades.  Such joints are fine off the blades.  It doesn't have the deep corners either, like a Forrest dado set does.  One reason is the arbor hole is a very tight fit, and not that easy to get on and off, but the machining seems to be dead on.

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