Router Table Build

[roughsawn]

A new JessEm router lift is on it's way, I will build a new table for it.

Can you guys give me some dimensions for either table tops, or complete projects that you have built or used? Also, pictures will really help, as I can wing it pretty well after seeing pics. I'm really interested in getting a real, useable table top dimension that won't leave me wishing I had built it bigger.

Paul, maybe you could post a pic of yours again...I fell in love with it last time I saw it. My new one will be a cabinet style, on casters.

[Von]

I built the V2 of the Norm Abrams Deluxe Router Table with exception I put a commercial top on it (a Bench Dog from Rockler I don't think they make any more). I subsequently added 2 pieces of T-track to the top running front-to-back for the fence.

Couple changes I would make if I did it again: (1) Norm's plans called for bit storage integrated into the drawers - I would just make drawers and then make inserts for bit storage so the drawers were more flexible. (2) The power switch sticks out annoyingly on the side where I'm always bumping it - I'd find some way to flush mount it in the space on the upper right.

I look forward to hearing how you like your router lift - it's on my someday list and JessEm seems to be a general favorite.

[treeslayer]

4’ X 2’ with a Rockler lift , small shop so I had to get as much stuff as possible into the space, I won’t ever be without a lift again 

[Von]

On 12/15/2024 at 11:47 AM, treeslayer said:

4’ X 2’ with a Rockler lift , small shop so I had to get as much stuff as possible into the space, I won’t ever be without a lift again 

Very nice. I notice your space for the router is shorter than mine, which as I think about it, is a good thing. Mine is taller than is needed which both wastes space that could be drawers and I suspect makes dust collection harder.

[BillyJack]

I’m confused… Projects using a router in a table?

[gee-dub]

I run an old 24" x 32" Rockler top modified to accept a Woodpeckers PRL-1 lift.  I use their basic fences on the router table, the drill press and on a few jigs.  Yes they are super-basic but, that seems to make them pretty trouble free over the long haul.  Things that I learned on my first couple of tables . . . .

Have the top overhang the cabinet so you can clamp to it.

Have a miter slot and gauge as they are very useful on the router table.

Have more than adequate dust collection as the router table can generate an amazing amount of spoil depending on the operation you are performing.

Have bit, tool, jig, and fence accessory storage nearby to speed things along.

 

[roughsawn]

Thanks for the pics, guys...and thanks g-man, for the suggestions. I will incorporate them. couple extra questions...

What is a comfortable table height above the ground?

With a 24" deep top, should the router be centered in the top, or how far in from the front of the table should I set the center of the router?

My current R1181 is 18" X 27". I'm thinking the new top will be 24"X32" or 36". Switch will be completely under the top (no protrusion), and 2"-3" overhang over the cabinet.

Last question (for now...lol), I can use melamine, mdf, or baltic birch. Any suggestions? I'm leaning towards melamine with an oak edging.

[curlyoak]

I made the hight level to my table saw bed. And is near the saw so I get to use the router table as support for longer cross cuts. Comes in handy...

[gee-dub]

On 12/15/2024 at 9:25 PM, curlyoak said:

I made the hight level to my table saw bed. And is near the saw so I get to use the router table as support for longer cross cuts. Comes in handy...

Ditto 

[BillyJack]

The problem with using a router table  with the table saw is what if you have a fence you have to break down or even a setup you’d like to leave.,Better to have a separate stand..

[Mark J]

13 hours ago, roughsawn said:

Last question (for now...lol), I can use melamine, mdf, or baltic birch. Any suggestions? I'm leaning towards melamine with an oak edging.

Flat and smooth so the workpiece moves easily and set ups are accurate.   Melamine on an MDF substrate?  

 

[Von]

On 12/15/2024 at 7:56 PM, roughsawn said:

What is a comfortable table height above the ground?

As others have said, the height isn't that critical within reason and I'd set it to be coherent with nearby tools.

On 12/15/2024 at 7:56 PM, roughsawn said:

With a 24" deep top, should the router be centered in the top, or how far in from the front of the table should I set the center of the router?

I would skew putting the router towards the front, say 6". My thinking is you want as much distance between the fence and bit as you can get so when you, e.g., cut a dado you push the piece R-to-L against the fence and can get dados up to 18" from the edge (basically, it's the same logic as wanting space between the blade and fence on a table saw).

On 12/15/2024 at 7:56 PM, roughsawn said:

Last question (for now...lol), I can use melamine, mdf, or baltic birch. Any suggestions? I'm leaning towards melamine with an oak edging.

Melamine is nicer but with a little wax the other two would be just fine and if I had them I'd use them instead of buying melamine. More important is making sure it's well supported and doesn't sag.

[BillyJack]

You can do many things with a deep top on a router table…

 

[gee-dub]

More pictures to give you ideas.  This is just a commercial top mounted to a cabinet I made almost 20 years ago.  The original insert was pretty small so it made it easy to enlarge the hole for the lift.  I also added the miter track.  The table height is the same as the tablesaw but the two machines are not attached.

The fence is also commercial but really basic.  It has always managed to do most of what I need.

I set the miter track the same distance as the miter slot to blade distance on my tablesaw at the time.  This allows me to use a lot of jigs on both tools without a lot of setup. I then changed tablesaws so although this still works there is about an inch of difference now. I also have my router table and tablesaw feed direction the same.  This lets me use the same feed clearance space, outfeed support, etc. 

I have wished for a larger table a few times.  A foot or so ahead of the table works for most things.  Getting the fence farther back is the most common issue for me in regard to table size.  Not frequent but it does happen.  I have run this top for 15 years and you can see some of the melamine has gotten chipped here and there.  All in all it has proven to be a very durable surface.  It is a high pressure laminate and not the melamine that comes on cheap shelf units like you see at the BORG.

Onboard storage is a nice feature.  The type of storage you need will vary with how you use the machine.

I added pegboard panels to each side to hold all manner of accessories.

As others have mentioned the overhang allows you to clamp additional items to the top.  I had a flush top (no overhang) for several years before I got this top; I didn't like it.

This top is 1-1/8" MDF.  MDF requires really good support to avoid sagging.  My first 3/4" MDF commercial top sagged since it was only supported on the outer edges.  This top has remained flat ever since it went on back in 2009.

 

[BillyJack]

Router tables are anyway you want it. Money, time. It’s all up to the user. How they will use it and how often..We were making router tables before The new Yankee Workshop. He didn’t invent it, just TV’d it.. You can get all kinds od ideas from Pinterest or Google pictures of router tables 

 

Router tables are about want and needs..

 

[roughsawn]

Thanks for all the pictures guys. It really does help to give me ideas for my build.

[roughsawn]

This project is finished.

 

[Von]

Looks great! Nice job.

[gee-dub]

Looks good.  Love the wild panels.  You may want to experiment with the return air holes.  I started with a few in a pegboard panel in the door.  I used a step drill to keep enlarging them.  Your 2-1/2" port has just shy of 5" of area so you want at least that much area for return air IMHO.  There is some area for return air in the throat opening depending on what kind of inserts you use.  Sometimes I like mine tight for material support and sometimes I like them loose for spoil collection.  Not trying to dictate, just relaying what has worked for me.

A good router table and fence setup is a joy.  I use mine on nearly every project.  It is factored into my thinking when I am designing things or planning projects.  You will enjoy that thing for many years to come.

[legenddc]

Looks great! What are the rough dimensions of your fence? I need to get or make a router table fence in the near future.

[roughsawn]

The hose is covering up 3 more air holes. Total of 5.

The fence is 36" X 4".

[BillyJack]

You’ll get more out of it as time goes. I believe it’s more for cabinet making, but other things come up..

[Coop]

@roughsawn, what did you end up making the top from?

[Chet]

That came out real nice, great work.

[roughsawn]

On 6/13/2025 at 5:24 PM, Coop said:

@roughsawn, what did you end up making the top from?

3/4" MDF, under 3/4" Melamine. Glued and screwed together. Wrapped with oak.