Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted December 18, 2024 Popular Post Report Posted December 18, 2024 Over the years, there have been many discussions surrounding clamps. Realizing a lot of useful data is available, I thought it might be helpful to consolidate things into a single thread for easy search and retrieval. I'm going to list the clamp types at my disposal, with likes & dislikes for each. I hope everyone will pitch in their $0.02 and build a comprehensive list. F-style with spring clutch (Harbor Freight): good up to 12", longer ones are too flexible. Six inchers are the most used in my shop. Likes=low cost & function. Dislikes=variable quality. I have some Jorgensens that are much better quality. F-style without clutch (Bessy): Likes=sturdy and good pressure. Dislikes=very fussy to get 'latched in'. Moving jaw tends to drop when held upright. Parallel style (Irwin): Likes=Strong & sturdy, stay upright on the bench, stays parallel. Dislikes=HEAVY. Screw threads too fine, and moving jaw hard to lock on to bar. Pipe clamps (Irwin): Likes= These have spring clutches on both jaws, so threaded pipes aren't needed. Coarse screw threads are fast, and lever handles on the screw provide tons of torque. Infinitely extendable. Dislikes=cast jaw faces aren't flat, so can mar the work. Pipe clamps (Pony): Same likes & dislikes as Irwin, but do require threaded pipe. Pipe clamps (HF): Same as above, except the springs in the clutch are lousy, and break easily. Hand-Screws(HF): Likes=versatile holding options, wood jaws are easily modified. Strong hold. Dislikes=Have to dig through the bins at HF to find units without defects in the wood. Ratcheting squeeze clamps (various): Likes=easy one-hand operation. Dislikes=low holding power, low durability. Spring clamps: Likes=cheap, quick, easy. Dislikes=low power, cause shifting when jaw faces aren't at exactly parallel position. I'm not mentioning C-clamps, because none of mine are big enough to use in most woodworking applications. I also don't own any 'Kant Twist' types, or the notched bar clamp styles. Feel free to add your comments about any types you have experience with. 6 Quote
Beechwood Chip Posted December 18, 2024 Report Posted December 18, 2024 On 12/17/2024 at 8:59 PM, wtnhighlander said: F-style with spring clutch (Harbor Freight) Is this what some people call a Quick Clamp? Like the Irwin QuickGrip? 1 Quote
wtnhighlander Posted December 18, 2024 Author Report Posted December 18, 2024 @Beechwood Chip, no, I am referring to these guys: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-bar-clamp-96210.html?event_id=183222&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21905699479&campaignid=21905699479&utm_content=170043785883&adsetid=170043785883&product=96210&store=287&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA34S7BhAtEiwACZzv4f8UDZE5xQ9ppKTsYO29GX0ZdJhTzYESrAhRbC0cw0jPm9IxjeRaPRoCdagQAvD_BwE Quote
fcschoenthal Posted December 18, 2024 Report Posted December 18, 2024 On 12/17/2024 at 7:59 PM, wtnhighlander said: I'm not mentioning C-clamps, because none of mine are big enough to use in most woodworking applications. I don't think I've ever used C-clamps for woodworking. To me, they're more for "high pressure" clamping, that isn't really necessary. I use either a 4 or 6" F style or squeeze clamp for smaller things. I do own a couple of large Husky C-clamps (about 8") from Home Depot that have a quick release button. I always hated spinning C-clamps to get them close to the right size opening. 1 Quote
legenddc Posted December 18, 2024 Report Posted December 18, 2024 Pipe clamps - was just using some old ones and I really hate having to move the "fixed" part and then go tighten it from the other end. It's fine if you're working on something where the clamps are resting on a horizontal surface. Parallel clamps - Bessey - I have a bunch and I like them. Wish they didn't cost so much. 1 Quote
BillyJack Posted December 18, 2024 Report Posted December 18, 2024 All clamps have a value, but some have no values on some projects. Commercial, cabinet and furniture makers all use different clamps. Just depends on your project. Worst clamp is the K-body in my opinion. Offers very little for its weight, price, and limited lengths. My best value is the 2” spring clamp.. Seems you can never have enough and why I bought a 100 and still need more. 1 Quote
BillyJack Posted December 18, 2024 Report Posted December 18, 2024 When your doing large radiuses, you have to close those gaps fast as the glue falls with gravity. A 2” or3” are just too handy to ignore till you can get your permanent clamps on.. Now why not a quick grip or or F-style? Squeeze, squeeze, squeeze, turn, turn, turn. You decide… 1 Quote
pkinneb Posted December 19, 2024 Report Posted December 19, 2024 On 12/18/2024 at 12:08 PM, BillyJack said: All clamps have a value, but some have no values on some projects. Totally agree! 1 Quote
Popular Post gee-dub Posted December 19, 2024 Popular Post Report Posted December 19, 2024 Cool idea for a topic. Clamps seem to be a personal preference on a level with router motors. How the woodworker is built seems to effect the preferred form-factor. A great benefit of the forums is the input from many different craftsmen and their experiences so this thread should be very good for newbies and old hands alike. We all tend to recommend the things that work for us. Also, we generally can only comment on the things we have worked with directly. Here’s my pondering for better or worse . . . F-style with spring clutch: Mostly Jorgies for me but I have orange f-style Jorgies that I got from dad back when I was in college. The bars are nearly black with patina. I have several from the early 2000s when I restarted my love affair with wood butchering. I have these in 6”, 12”, 18”, and 24” IIRC. Useful but not my favorite. F-style without clutch (Bessy): The 4” ‘Mighty Minis’ are probably my most used clamp. I use them how many folks use one-handed Quick-Grip clamps. Work holding, bench stops, curved lamination, the list goes on. I have no-clutch f-styles in 4”, 6”, 8”, 18”, 24”, and 36”. The larger ones are deep throat and I recommend anyone to have some in 6”, 8”, or deeper throat versions. Folks who use no-clutch clamps soon develop the habit of holding them by the movable jaw or handle to avoid the pinching slide of death . Parallel style: I had to return the Irwins I tried. The poor choice of thread and the non-parallel parallel faces taunted me. I picked up some Jets during the 50% off Christmas deals they used to have. Awkward, hard to adjust, and not my favorite. I do enjoy the large / deep head. Probably age related but the pre-Revo K-body style is my favored parallel clamp and I have a bunch. Pipe clamps: The old standby and a favorite for crushing strength and extendable needs. The double clutch ended Irwins look cool but like my other old Jorgies I have enough pipe clamp heads to keep me out of trouble. I did build felt padded wooden cauls onto the end of most of mine for the work-marring reasons mentioned. The cauls also help them stand up like the H-style Besseys or Rockler Sure-foots. Hand-Screws: The ones Rockler practically gives away on sale a few times a year have worked well as do the Jets (also bought at Rockler). They are not U.S. made but seem to conform to the Jorgie model as far as screw pitch and style go. Ratcheting squeeze clamps: I think I kept 4 medium and 4 small ones of these. I gave all the others away as they are of little use to me other than as a temporary third hand. I had too many glue ups fouled by them loosening up while I was having lunch. Spring clamps: I have a grip of the $1 ones from Home Depot and they have been in use for nearly 20 years . . . still work. I also have about a dozen of the Bessey 4” Vario Clippex. By far my favorite spring clamp. Another facet to this thread might be “what clamps do you use the most?”. My use-pattern from most to least used is something like so: Bessey Might Minis: I use these for so many things. I have at least 3 dozen. Bessey UniKlamps: A general casework clamp. They are like a no-clutch f-style with a plastic head on each end that makes them perform like a mini parallel clamp. Bessey K-Body: My go to parallel clamp for larger work. Every time I was making something and ran out I watched for a good sale on them and bought a couple more until I stopped running out. Deep-reach f-style clamps, with or without a clutch: There are times when you need to sneak way back to hold or clamp something. Having a few deep-reach clamps can really make things easier now and again. Pipe clamps: These happen to be my long reach solution. Various pieces of pipe and pipe couplers solve those occasional long reach requirements for me. I will mention here that any format clamp has a length at which they stop making sense. Bar or pipe flexing make things silly at some point. Hand Screws: Great for so many things; holding small parts where you hands have no business being, clamp them to a work surface and then hold something else, clamping out-of-plane parts together at odd angles, etc. Then all the others I guess . . . face frame clamps, Kant-Twists, I-Beam (for crushing force), Corner clamps, Gear clamps, I’m probably missing some but I’d have to go to the shop and look and right now I’m having coffee. My coffee time is sacred to me . 7 Quote
BillyJack Posted December 19, 2024 Report Posted December 19, 2024 Problem with F-style clamps is they are a clumsy clamp. Requires two hands to operate even the smallest. Think about something. Screw on, screw of. For many this is not a good deal if they have arthritis in the hands or wrist… These are three clamps I’d recommend up to 12”. 2 Quote
wtnhighlander Posted December 19, 2024 Author Report Posted December 19, 2024 "Bar or pipe flexing make things silly at some point." While undoubtedly true, that point can be pretty extreme. In a previous job, we used 3/4" pipe clamps extended to over 100 feet to draw together sectional cutting tables during assembly. Friction of the Tab & slot joinery of the stamped steel table frames required more force per section than one man could apply by hand, but a pair of loooooong pipe clamps could pull together 20 sections at once. 1 1 Quote
BillyJack Posted December 19, 2024 Report Posted December 19, 2024 Another clamp that’s not very good and awkward..The HF sash clamp.. 1 Quote
Popular Post legenddc Posted December 19, 2024 Popular Post Report Posted December 19, 2024 On 12/19/2024 at 9:01 AM, BillyJack said: Screw on, screw of. For many this is not a good deal if they have arthritis in the hands or wrist… The new Bessey parallel clamps have a hex slot in the handle so you could use an Allen wrench or hex bit on a ratchet to tighten/loosen. Not saying they’re the right choice for every application, just might be good to know for those with arthritis. 3 Quote
gee-dub Posted December 19, 2024 Report Posted December 19, 2024 On 12/19/2024 at 7:10 AM, wtnhighlander said: "Bar or pipe flexing make things silly at some point." While undoubtedly true, that point can be pretty extreme. In a previous job, we used 3/4" pipe clamps extended to over 100 feet to draw together sectional cutting tables during assembly. Friction of the Tab & slot joinery of the stamped steel table frames required more force per section than one man could apply by hand, but a pair of loooooong pipe clamps could pull together 20 sections at once. That is so cool. I would never have expected that. Like I said; the shared experiences of people on the forum can teach us all something. 2 Quote
Popular Post BillyJack Posted December 19, 2024 Popular Post Report Posted December 19, 2024 Here’s a set of clamps I bought on an Amazon Black Friday. I bought 24 and really wanted to love these clamps. As hard as I wanted to, They had flaws. Sometimes I would clamp. Several and one would just pop off. I sold these, but still want to like them. Use your own judgement.. 3 Quote
Popular Post Mark J Posted December 19, 2024 Popular Post Report Posted December 19, 2024 I'm seeing some clamp types I didn't know existed. 3 Quote
Mark J Posted December 19, 2024 Report Posted December 19, 2024 They said it couldn't be done, but I have achieved the impossible. I truly have more clamps than I need. I collected them like a "flat work" woodworker, but then I was swept up in the vortex of woodturning. I just don't need that many clamps for that. Still, not gonna part with any--just in case. What I have mostly are parallel clamps and quick clamps, with some clutch F-clamps. I have some spring clamps , too. I use the F's as hold downs at the drill press so they see a lot of use (along with a wooden hand screw clamp). Next most used are the quick clamps for the odd glue up or temporary jig. Small spring clamps go on the lathe tool rest posts to fix the height of the tool rest. 1 Quote
Popular Post Mark J Posted December 19, 2024 Popular Post Report Posted December 19, 2024 3rd post. 4 Quote
Popular Post BillyJack Posted December 20, 2024 Popular Post Report Posted December 20, 2024 Most woodworkers may not know or pay attention. Many will say” I’ll just buy HF clamps as they are cheaper” Not so fast. Unless it’s changed, Jorgensen are still better and draw a better return when selling. Notice the difference… 3 Quote
wtnhighlander Posted December 20, 2024 Author Report Posted December 20, 2024 I have to agree with @BillyJack. Low-priced stuff from discount tool stores like HF are not known for their tight quality control. 1 Quote
Popular Post BillyJack Posted December 20, 2024 Popular Post Report Posted December 20, 2024 Quality may have improved since I took the pictures in 2005. Don’t know.. I have a bunch of Jorgensen and HF clamp kits in a cabinet. If you’re building cabinets for yourself, don’t invest in a ton of pipe or beam clamps. There great, but once your done, you have to store them as you may or may not need them much anymore. 3 Quote
gee-dub Posted December 20, 2024 Report Posted December 20, 2024 On 12/20/2024 at 5:59 AM, wtnhighlander said: I have to agree with @BillyJack. Low-priced stuff from discount tool stores like HF are not known for their tight quality control. HF has some diamonds in the rough. I have seen threads dedicated to just this subject; gravity feed HVLP guns, 23 ga. pinners, nitrile gloves, tool boxes, dead blow hammers, and some clamps. In general my rule is that anything that needs a level of precision, accuracy, or durability of sharpness . . . I go elsewhere. Bargains can be had from various sources but not all bargains involve purchase price only. I have items that were a bit pricey but 20 years of use later . . . they were a bargain . 2 Quote
BillyJack Posted December 20, 2024 Report Posted December 20, 2024 That’s why they stay in business. Their purple sprayers were under $30 and have been used by many. I bought a 125 f-stole clamps there for 4-$1. Never bought there gloves, but do buy there cheap small drill bits packs at a time. I did start buying there 6x80 belts and 12” discs for the combo… When I worked for the furniture company, they bought as many cup sprayers as they could for CA, and when the failed , HF would replace for free. 2 Quote
roughsawn Posted December 21, 2024 Report Posted December 21, 2024 On 12/19/2024 at 7:33 AM, gee-dub said: Folks who use no-clutch clamps soon develop the habit of holding them by the movable jaw or handle to avoid the pinching slide of death I have problems with the "slide of death"...lol...When I least expect it. What am I doing wrong? Should I plant the loose jaw on the project first...then tighten, or the solid jaw on first? Silly question, but the "slide" can sometimes drive me crazy!!! Quote
Mark J Posted December 21, 2024 Report Posted December 21, 2024 8 hours ago, gee-dub said: In general my rule is that anything that needs a level of precision, accuracy, or durability of sharpness . . . I go elsewhere. Now, I may have shopped there once or twice. But I'm not going to admit I bought anything . Quote
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