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Posted
On 12/17/2024 at 7:59 PM, wtnhighlander said:

I'm not mentioning C-clamps, because none of mine are big enough to use in most woodworking applications. 

I don't think I've ever used C-clamps for woodworking. To me, they're more for "high pressure" clamping, that isn't really necessary. I use either a 4 or 6" F style or squeeze clamp for smaller things.

I do own a couple of large Husky C-clamps (about 8") from Home Depot that have a quick release button. I always hated spinning C-clamps to get them close to the right size opening.

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Posted

Pipe clamps - was just using some old ones and I really hate having to move the "fixed" part and then go tighten it from the other end. It's fine if you're working on something where the clamps are resting on a horizontal surface.

Parallel clamps - Bessey - I have a bunch and I like them. Wish they didn't cost so much.

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Posted

All clamps have a value, but some have no values on some projects. Commercial, cabinet and furniture makers all use different clamps. Just depends on your project.

 

Worst clamp is the K-body in my opinion. Offers very little for its weight, price, and limited  lengths.

 

My best value is the 2” spring clamp.. Seems you can never have enough and why I bought a 100 and still need more.

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Posted

When your doing large radiuses, you have to close those gaps fast as the  glue falls with gravity. A 2” or3” are just too handy to ignore till you can get your permanent clamps on..

 

Now why not a quick grip or or F-style? Squeeze, squeeze, squeeze, turn, turn, turn. You decide…
 

 

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Posted

Problem with F-style clamps is they are a clumsy clamp. Requires two hands  to operate even the smallest. 
 

Think about something. Screw on, screw of. For many this is not a good deal if they have arthritis in the hands or wrist…

 

These are three clamps I’d recommend up to 12”.

 

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Posted

"Bar or pipe flexing make things silly at some point."

While undoubtedly true, that point can be pretty extreme. In a previous job, we used 3/4" pipe clamps extended to over 100 feet to draw together sectional cutting tables during assembly. Friction of the Tab & slot joinery of the stamped steel table frames required more force per section than one man could apply by hand, but a pair of loooooong pipe clamps could pull together 20 sections at once.

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Posted
On 12/19/2024 at 7:10 AM, wtnhighlander said:

"Bar or pipe flexing make things silly at some point."

While undoubtedly true, that point can be pretty extreme. In a previous job, we used 3/4" pipe clamps extended to over 100 feet to draw together sectional cutting tables during assembly. Friction of the Tab & slot joinery of the stamped steel table frames required more force per section than one man could apply by hand, but a pair of loooooong pipe clamps could pull together 20 sections at once.

That is so cool.  I would never have expected that.  Like I said; the shared experiences of people on the forum can teach us all something. :)

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Posted

They said it couldn't be done, but I have achieved the impossible.  I truly have more clamps than I need.  I collected them like a "flat work" woodworker, but then I was swept up in the vortex of woodturning.  I just don't need that many clamps for that.  Still, not gonna part with any--just in case.

What I have mostly are parallel clamps and quick clamps, with some clutch F-clamps.  I have some spring clamps , too.

I use the F's as hold downs at the drill press so they see a lot of use (along with a wooden hand screw clamp).  Next most used are the quick clamps for the odd glue up or temporary jig.  Small spring clamps go on the lathe tool rest posts to fix the height of the tool rest.

 

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Posted
On 12/20/2024 at 5:59 AM, wtnhighlander said:

I have to agree with @BillyJack. Low-priced stuff from discount tool stores like HF are not known for their tight quality control.

HF has some diamonds in the rough.  I have seen threads dedicated to just this subject; gravity feed HVLP guns, 23 ga. pinners, nitrile gloves, tool boxes, dead blow hammers, and some clamps.  In general my rule is that anything that needs a level of precision, accuracy, or durability of sharpness . . . I go elsewhere.  Bargains can be had from various sources but not all bargains involve purchase price only.  I have items that were a bit pricey but 20 years of use later . . . they were a bargain :D.

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Posted

That’s why they stay in business. Their purple sprayers were under $30 and have been used by many. I bought a 125 f-stole clamps there for 4-$1. Never bought there gloves, but do buy there cheap small drill bits packs at a time. I did start buying there 6x80 belts and 12” discs for the combo…

 

When I worked for the furniture company, they bought as many cup sprayers as they could for CA, and when the failed , HF would replace for free.

 

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Posted
On 12/19/2024 at 7:33 AM, gee-dub said:
  •  Folks who use no-clutch clamps soon develop the habit of holding them by the movable jaw or handle to avoid the pinching slide of death :P

I have problems with the "slide of death"...lol...When I least expect it. What am I doing wrong?

Should I plant the loose jaw on the project first...then tighten, or the solid jaw on first? Silly question, but the "slide" can sometimes drive me crazy!!!

Posted
8 hours ago, gee-dub said:

In general my rule is that anything that needs a level of precision, accuracy, or durability of sharpness . . . I go elsewhere. 

Now, I may have shopped there once or twice.  But I'm not going to admit I bought anything :ph34r:.

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